Case neck lube?

[omnivorous]

I know guys are fond of Neo 2 for case necks. What about Boretech Teflon lube or Kg Moly lube? Goals being ease of seating, mandreling, and improved SD etc.

Disclaimer, none of these are labeled or marketed for this use.

 

[RegionRat]

Neolube #2 is a specific type of graphite dry lubricant.
The carrier is designed with a viscosity and surface tension for the purpose of leaving a thickness of the graphite on open surfaces. NL#2 has a very narrow particle size for the purpose. It was developed for places where we had a sensitivity to contamination, but we still needed to lubricate threads. It works well for our cartridge purposes and worth a try.

Lock Ease and similar ones are a distribution of particle sizes (the average is more coarse than NL#2). The carrier is solvent and designed to help get stubborn locks to loosen up, so the solvent is intended to both transport the graphite into those capillaries and to dissolve polymerized lubricants. The slower evaporation rate of Lock Ease is intentional so that it can wick into locks and work on old stiff lubricants.

You can certainly try Lock Ease, but it won't be as easy in necks as NL#2. It has a following of some very accomplished shooters who run it through their bores after cleaning to "prime" the surface with graphite.

Bore Tech Quik Dri is PTFE (Teflon) in a solvent. We try not to burn PTFE because it risks liberating the fluorine.

KG 10 is MoS2 in a volatile solvent. Similar to NL#2 and worth a try to see if you like it.

I would recommend you try the NL#2 and or KG 10 and see if you like them. It takes balance in your recipe and prep to coordinate a low friction in the neck with everything else that has to happen to get a good performance.

 

[omnivorous]

Neolube #2 is a specific type of graphite dry lubricant.
The carrier is designed with a viscosity and surface tension for the purpose of leaving a thickness of the graphite on open surfaces. NL#2 has a very narrow particle size for the purpose. It was developed for places where we had a sensitivity to contamination, but we still needed to lubricate threads. It works well for our cartridge purposes and worth a try.

Lock Ease and similar ones are a distribution of particle sizes (the average is more coarse than NL#2). The carrier is solvent and designed to help get stubborn locks to loosen up, so the solvent is intended to both transport the graphite into those capillaries and to dissolve polymerized lubricants. The slower evaporation rate of Lock Ease is intentional so that it can wick into locks and work on old stiff lubricants.

You can certainly try Lock Ease, but it won't be as easy in necks as NL#2. It has a following of some very accomplished shooters who run it through their bores after cleaning to "prime" the surface with graphite.

Bore Tech Quik Dri is PTFE (Teflon) in a solvent. We try not to burn PTFE because it risks liberating the fluorine.

KG 10 is MoS2 in a volatile solvent. Similar to NL#2 and worth a try to see if you like it.

I would recommend you try the NL#2 and or KG 10 and see if you like them. It takes balance in your recipe and prep to coordinate a low friction in the neck with everything else that has to happen to get a good performance.

Thanks for the detailed reply. Good point on burning the teflon. However, the amount burned is minuscule, and the exposure, in an outdoor setting would be minimal. Most/all of it heading rapidly out the muzzle.

 

[TxBowHunter409]

I use Imperial Dry Case Neck Lube myself.

 

[Fire Dog]

I use Imperial Dry Case Neck Lube myself.

Have found both Imperial & 21st Century dry products to be a recipe for scratched dies and brass… Not to mention that mess that is now on the outside of the case neck…!

The motor mica kit that Foster now sells with their name on it and comes in a small case with neck brushes inside the case that apply dry lube to the inside of the case neck is satisfactory in that it is non scratching but terribly slow…
This product was originally sold by Bonanza whom Foster bought out years ago…
Nothing has changed from Bonanza’s original catalogue aside from the name FOSTER being applied… If you have an original Bonanza press the current FOSTER Co-Ax parts will fit perfectly though I have never in nearly 40 years of use needed to replace any parts on my Bonanza aside upgrading the side links with Inline’s curved ones.

I have made my own version of Neolube #2 as it cannot be shipped out of the US due to the flammable carrier…
Ultra fine graphite mixed with a very small amount of of Isopropyl alcohol and applied to the inside of the case neck with a Q-Tip.
A tray of brass is ready to mandrel by the time you finish the last case, just start on the first one that you applied the lube to.
There is enough lube/graphite left in the neck after mandreling/siizing that seating is noticeably easier and the cost of course is virtually nothing to make…! {:~)
Apply my recipe or Neolube #2 before priming!
I had a “squib” shot that cost me a match that was running a score of 90.8 until the last shot fell out of the sky to the outer ring of the target… It was perfect windage, just 4 rings low…!
I can only blame/imagine that some liquid effected the primer as I have not in all my years had such a shot aside from a totally un-powdered case while loading at midnight for a match the following day…
This load fired but I could tell that the report and recoil was less and the results on target showed the result…
I use an AutoTrickler that is throwing a load accurate to one granule of Varget so I know that the amount of powder in the case was correct and can only attribute the squib to primer failure.
This issue about Neolube #2 has previously been much discussed on the forum over the years… Check out the “Search” tab here.

 

[64Rambler]

We try not to burn PTFE because it risks liberating the fluorine.

More correctly, HF (hydrogen fluoride) which is incredibly corrosive.

 

[memilanuk]

Been using NL2 the last few years. I've also messed with Delta No-Oil as well... seems to work fine, just takes a little longer to dry.

 

[boltfluter]

Neolube #2 is a specific type of graphite dry lubricant.
The carrier is designed with a viscosity and surface tension for the purpose of leaving a thickness of the graphite on open surfaces. NL#2 has a very narrow particle size for the purpose. It was developed for places where we had a sensitivity to contamination, but we still needed to lubricate threads. It works well for our cartridge purposes and worth a try.

Lock Ease and similar ones are a distribution of particle sizes (the average is more coarse than NL#2). The carrier is solvent and designed to help get stubborn locks to loosen up, so the solvent is intended to both transport the graphite into those capillaries and to dissolve polymerized lubricants. The slower evaporation rate of Lock Ease is intentional so that it can wick into locks and work on old stiff lubricants.

You can certainly try Lock Ease, but it won't be as easy in necks as NL#2. It has a following of some very accomplished shooters who run it through their bores after cleaning to "prime" the surface with graphite.

Bore Tech Quik Dri is PTFE (Teflon) in a solvent. We try not to burn PTFE because it risks liberating the fluorine.

KG 10 is MoS2 in a volatile solvent. Similar to NL#2 and worth a try to see if you like it.

I would recommend you try the NL#2 and or KG 10 and see if you like them. It takes balance in your recipe and prep to coordinate a low friction in the neck with everything else that has to happen to get a good performance.

What a great detailed answer. We are very lucky to have the knowledge base that we have on this great site! Carry on men.
Paul

 

[SeabeeKen]

I use NL 2 in my case necks and have for some time now. It definately reduces my ES, makes bullet seating smoother and more consistent, and makes bullet release more consistent.

Moly can foul a barrel and build up. When I bought a used rifle this past spring I noticed it wouldnt shoot. I saw what looked like bad carbon fouling in the bore and noticed it didnt want to come out. I finally realized it was moly fouled, heavily. I cleaned it to bare steel and it started shooting under .1"

You might want to consider NL2 or HBN for your case necks.

 

[TxBowHunter409]

Have found both Imperial & 21st Century dry products to be a recipe for scratched dies and brass… Not to mention that mess that is now on the outside of the case neck…!

The motor mica kit that Foster now sells with their name on it and comes in a small case with neck brushes inside the case that apply dry lube to the inside of the case neck is satisfactory in that it is non scratching but terribly slow…
This product was originally sold by Bonanza whom Foster bought out years ago…
Nothing has changed from Bonanza’s original catalogue aside from the name FOSTER being applied… If you have an original Bonanza press the current FOSTER Co-Ax parts will fit perfectly though I have never in nearly 40 years of use needed to replace and parts on my Bonanza aside upgrading the side links with Inline’s curved ones.

I have made my own version of Neolube #2 as it cannot be shipped out of the US due to the flammable carrier…
Ultra fine graphite mixed with a very small amount of of Isopropyl alcohol and applied to the inside of the case neck with a Q-Tip.
A tray of brass is ready to mandrel by the time you finish the last case, just start on the first one that you applied the lube to.
There is enough lube/graphite left in the neck after mandreling/siizing that seating is noticeably easier and the cost of course is virtually nothing to make…! {:~)
Apply my recipe or Neolube #2 before priming!
I had a “squib” shot that cost me a match that was running a score of 90.8 until the last shot fell out of the sky to the outer ring of the target… It was perfect windage, just 4 rings low…!
I can only blame/imagine that some liquid effected the primer as I have not in all my years had such a shot aside from a totally un-powdered case while loading at midnight for a match the following day…
This load fired but I could tell that the report and recoil was less and the results on target showed the result…
I use an AutoTrickler that is throwing a load accurate to one granule of Varget so I know that the amount of powder in the case was correct and can only attribute the squib to primer failure.
This issue about Neolube #2 has previously been much discussed on the forum over the years… Check out the “Search” tab here.

Thanks for the info. I actually have the Forester mika kit although I've never used it. Made such a mess with it when I first got it discovering first hand that the little plastic bag of mika, WON'T all fit into the little case reservoir at one time. Haven't pulled it out to try it again since. Might try that though because I agree, the dry neck lube makes a pretty decent mess of things itself.

 

[divingin]

Neo lube (as stated above) is sub-micron graphite in an Isopropyl alcohol carrier. Sub-micron graphite is tough to find in reasonable sized quantities, so I use 5 micron graphite (you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference looking at or using them side-by-side.)

If you want a quick drying formula, swap out the IPA for Acetone. You will need to rewet whatever you use for application pretty often though, and likely refresh the carrier in your bulk storage every now and then.

 

[gmr4]

Neo-Lube is not just graphite and alcohol. There is a reason it coats so evenly and a bottle lasts thousand of necks… see attached MSDS

 

[Trigger-Jerker]

New kid on the block for those that are interested.

Delta Carbon Black Neck Lube

New from our friends at Delta Carbon in Italy is their Black Neck Lube. This Liquid with suspended lubricants is intended for use on necks prior to expanding with mandrels. This can also be used as a bullet lube prior to seating. The liquid is applied by dipping the neck into the container or...

21stcenturyinnovation.com

 

[omnivorous]

Neo-Lube is not just graphite and alcohol. There is a reason it coats so evenly and a bottle lasts thousand of necks… see attached MSDS

I’m seeing-Thermoplastic resins, Flourine, chlorine, sulfur, and an intermittent burn temp of 850 degrees f.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

New kid on the block for those that are interested.

Delta Carbon Black Neck Lube

New from our friends at Delta Carbon in Italy is their Black Neck Lube. This Liquid with suspended lubricants is intended for use on necks prior to expanding with mandrels. This can also be used as a bullet lube prior to seating. The liquid is applied by dipping the neck into the container or...

21stcenturyinnovation.com

I think we all come to realize at some point that we can’t buy it all. lol!

 

[omnivorous]

New kid on the block for those that are interested.

Delta Carbon Black Neck Lube

New from our friends at Delta Carbon in Italy is their Black Neck Lube. This Liquid with suspended lubricants is intended for use on necks prior to expanding with mandrels. This can also be used as a bullet lube prior to seating. The liquid is applied by dipping the neck into the container or...

21stcenturyinnovation.com

I can’t find any SDS info on this new product?

 

[Trigger-Jerker]

I can’t find any SDS info on this new product?

I don’t use it or know anything about it. I just came across it while purchasing something else from 21st century. I’d suggest contacting them if you’re interested.

 

[Fire Dog]

I can’t find any SDS info on this new product?

Just another product that will leave black all over you and your brass, is a mess to clean up and a general nuisance to use…
I will stick to my Isopropyl alcohol & Colloidal graphite homemade mix that can be applied to the inside of the neck where it really belongs, Imperial or Ballistic Die Wax for the outside of the cases where it belongs and is easily removes with a paper towel.
All for the cost of perhaps .001 cents per piece…
The “Active Ingredients” of Neolube #2 that interests reloaders is the graphite that is left behind when the alcohol evaporates…
I really don’t need to worry about Thermoplastic resins, Flourine, chlorine, sulfur, and an intermittent burn temp of 850*F.

 

[1shot]

I'm one of those guys that use NL#2 in the bore, have since 1998 When George Kelbly told me about it, and handed me a bottle to try. I'm a firm believer that a totally clean, DRY bore increases the the amount of copper in the bore. As long as there is something in the bore for the bullet to ride on for that first couple of shots until the carbon replaces it. In every rifle I shoot, I give the bore this treatment and it performs equally well in both my comp rifles as well as the fun guns.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

 

[omnivorous]

I'm one of those guys that use NL#2 in the bore, have since 1998 When George Kelbly told me about it, and handed me a bottle to try. I'm a firm believer that a totally clean, DRY bore increases the the amount of copper in the bore. As long as there is something in the bore for the bullet to ride on for that first couple of shots until the carbon replaces it. In every rifle I shoot, I give the bore this treatment and it performs equally well in both my comp rifles as well as the fun guns.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

Interesting regarding using neo in the bore. Do you find it helps with cold bore, first shots?