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Case lube

I keep a generic lip balm stick on the loading bench for heavy duty sizing, cheap ones have more lanolin. Otherwise Hornady One shot, in a designated zip lock baggie than into a designated cardboard flat. I wear nitride gloves, wipe off case after sizing with a cloth.
 
Something I have noticed using various brands of dies- some dies work better with some lubes. I have Lee, Hornady, RCBS, Redding, Whidden, and Forster dies. They don't all play equally well with every lubricant. Hornady One Shot is BUTTER smooth with my Hornady dies, but doesn't work nearly as well in my RCBS Matchmaster die. It seems like lanolin works amazing in most of my dies, but nothing works as well with my Hornady dies as One Shot.

Ymmv.
 
After studying lubricity, a thin film is 1 of 3 requirements!!! High pressure lubes are refined oils from crude oil!!! The small carbon molecules are like tiny ball bearings allowing for a thin film!! Lanolin based lubed are made from wool oils or waxes which are Stearic Acid (Animal fat)!!! These larger molecules create a thick film and can cause cohesion, thus possibly causing the brass to be pulled back upward!!! The lanolin case lubes started coming out during the neck size only era!!! It was ORIGINALLY designed for shear lubricity, not compression sizing!!!

I still have my original Bonanza case lube bottle purchased ~ 45 years ago!!! Have reloaded over 15,000 rounds, and still have over 1/3 left in the bottle!!! I have only had 2 cases with oil dimples!!! They were the very short and steep shouldered 280 AI!!! NO PROBLEM, JUST BLOW THEM OUT AS FOULERS!! I have never had a problem with minimal bump in all those cases!!! HI PRESSURE LUBED CASES ARE MORE CONSISTENT AFTER SIZING!!! IMHO!!!!

And, for health reasons, one should steer away from synthetic oils or waxes!!!
Motor oils and gear lubes have additives that can cause issues at the bench or affect your health!!!
STICK WITH LUBES DESIGNED FOR RELOADING AND SAVE YOUR RELOADING EQUIPMENT AND HEALTH!!!

aim small
HIT BIG!!!!!!!!!
BILL
 
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Mink Oil Paste,
I've used Imperial for years, Love it
Until I tried Mink Oil, it beat out Imperial in lubricity
I can get a stuck case when Wildcat forming with Imperial
Not so much with Mink Oil, it just works better and comes off just as easily in the tumbler.
The stuff pictured is about the softeness/consistency of Imperial
 

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Mink Oil Paste,
I've used Imperial for years, Love it
Until I tried Mink Oil, it beat out Imperial in lubricity
I can get a stuck case when Wildcat forming with Imperial
Not so much with Mink Oil, it just works better and comes off just as easily in the tumbler.
The stuff pictured is about the softeness/consistency of Imperial

Mink oil: C16H34, 17% palmitoleic acid!!!
Lanolin: C34H68O2, Stearic acid!!!
Good choice when using animal oils and fats!!!
The Mink oil is a much smaller molecule than the chain link Lanolin!!!
That why in high pressure situations (wildcat forming), the Mink oil is better!!!
Less cohesion with a thinner film!!!
Way to go, ELR VLR!!!
 
Mink oil: C16H34, 17% palmitoleic acid!!!
Lanolin: C34H68O2, Stearic acid!!!
Good choice when using animal oils and fats!!!
The Mink oil is a much smaller molecule than the chain link Lanolin!!!
That why in high pressure situations (wildcat forming), the Mink oil is better!!!
Less cohesion with a thinner film!!!
Way to go, ELR VLR!!!
Awesome, Thank you for the scientific explanation
So the Molecules of the Mink Oil can contract under pressure to a smaller surface area than Lanolin
and still stay in tact?
 
Awesome, Thank you for the scientific explanation
So the Molecules of the Mink Oil can contract under pressure to a smaller surface area than Lanolin
and still stay in tact?

Did you notice a difference in the ease of sizing between the two animals oils/fats? I noticed the high pressure (petrol based) lubes formed the cases much easier and smoother than the Pacific lube (lanolin based)!!! With the petrol base lube, I get the die loaded with oil, and then skip lubing for a couple or three non lubed cases!!! By feeling the press, I know when to shove in a lubed case!!

After 35 years of sitting in the cabinet, the lanolin turned hard and yellowed!!! The lanolin was turning rancid, just like animal fat will with time and temperature!!! But, the Bonanza lube still has the same consistency and color like it was just opened!!! The 2oz plastic container, however, is starting to yellow slightly!!! The lube is going to out last its container!!!! Vise versa with the Pacific lube!!!
 
Did you notice a difference in the ease of sizing between the two animals oils/fats? I noticed the high pressure (petrol based) lubes formed the cases much easier and smoother than the Pacific lube (lanolin based)!!! With the petrol base lube, I get the die loaded with oil, and then skip lubing for a couple or three non lubed cases!!! By feeling the press, I know when to shove in a lubed case!!

After 35 years of sitting in the cabinet, the lanolin turned hard and yellowed!!! The lanolin was turning rancid, just like animal fat will with time and temperature!!! But, the Bonanza lube still has the same consistency and color like it was just opened!!! The 2oz plastic container, however, is starting to yellow slightly!!! The lube is going to out last its container!!!! Vise versa with the Pacific lube!!!
I noticed a rather big difference in cases that took some effort being much easier with the Mink Oil.
with something like a 223 sized case, there would not be much difference in feel,
both are equally good with smaller easy to size cases
but with bigger cases, Magnums or forming new wilcats that have to squeeze the web area
Major difference going to Mink Oil
--------------------------------------------------
I have had my can of Mink Oil open to the air now for a good year or more and havent noticed any oxidation, yellowing etc, or hardening
Big bonus for using with the Dillon- I can thin out a glob of Mink Oil paste in a jar with Naptha
and put it into a squirt bottle
Then put a bunch of cases into a Ziploc and Squirt a couple squirts on like 50 cases
Roll them in the baggie and theyre all lubed
Rather clean and easy
Even After the Naptha has evaporated, the cases stayed lubed
------------------------------------------------
And yes for the most part with single finger dipping, each case, I usually skip every other case.
Like you mention with yours, I can relate there.
I think I paid 8 bucks (Mink Oil) for a nice big easy to use can,,,, compared to the tiny Imperial cans which I end up pushing all over the place or knocking over,
That 8 dollar can will likely last for years
Mink Oil lubes better so is a No brainer for me
I mainly used it for thinning down and using in a squirt bottole but
---it really wasnt until recently i completely transferred to it for single stage loading when
I had 3 stuck cases forming a wildcat with imperial,
no mater how much I put on the case, it would get stuck, had to case extract start over etc
And tried once with Mink Oil and experienced no stuck cases. They usually go in the die smooth as silk
And if it started to get tight at all in the forming die, All I had to do was withdraw slighty and just smudge what was still on the case around again and replunge upward a second stroke on the ram and it finished.
 
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