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Removing Lube After Resizing

I size with Imperial Wax and then wipe them clean with a rag and isopropyl alcohol. Simple and fast.

My experience with 308 for F T/R is that One Shot on 15-20 brass at a time provides the most consistent post sizing measurements and keeps the die cleaner with less scoring on my brass. Used to lube bigger batches but doing fewer seems to keep lube more evenly distributed and moist.
Also use wet tumbling with media before sizing and after sizing and trimming/deburring. Anneal before lube and sizing.
 
An ultrasonic cleaner with a few squirts of simple green and a dash of citric acid/lemi-shine does the trick. Dry in the oven for 20 min at 220F.
 
I use One-Shot when I need lube (none needed when I use a Lee Collet Die to neck size). The product dries and there's no need to remove it unless you over do it.

As was mentioned earlier the seating pressures are more uniform and accuracy is excellent. Those that have problems with One-Shot usually aren't following the instructions properly.

RCBS spray case lube is pretty much the same stuff as it dries too leaving no greasy residue that causes powder to stick in the neck, etc. Again, if you use it per instructions which include letting cases sit for a while after application for the lube to distribute itself over the surfaces and dry.

After cleaning sizing dies I just give a shot of either the One Shot or RCBS spray, whichever I have on hand at the time, inside each die and let it "drip dry" in my storage rack.
 
Lately I've been using Lyman Quick Slick Case Lube spray. I spray some in a bowl, dab my thumb and index finger and lube each case quickly with my left hand fingers before sizing. Once I'm done, I dump them all into a small bucket and add a bit of Dawn dish washing soap and water and swirl them around for 5 minutes. After rinsing them with lots of water, I lay them out on a big beach towel and point a couple of floor fans at them and dry them (takes about an hour). If I'm in a hurry, I'll dry in a towel and put them in a large plastic bowl and dry them with a blow dryer (takes about 10 minutes).
 
When sizing in quantity, I throw the cases in a small bucket. Then I pour coleman Lantern fluid over the top and stir them with my hand. Then a paper towel is folded in a large funnel and the gas is poured back into the can for later use. The cases are then poured on a large towel, grab both ends of the towel and let the cases tumble back and forth in the towel 10-15 times. Next, lay the towel in the sun. The White gas will evaporate quickly.

Coleman Lantern fuel does not have any additives like regular gasoline and will not leave any residue on the cases.
 
While far from the cheapest or most environmentally friendly, I have found the fastest way to remove lube (in my case Imperial wax) is with brake cleaner. Place the cases in a small Tupperware, spray, shake, and dump out the extra cleaner.

The cases are ENTIRELY free of lube inside and out after this. The brake cleaner evaporates in minutes and the cases are ready to load. Brake cleaner is also quite cheap.

This is particularly useful if you are processing a large number of cases that require a very slippery case lube like Imperial. An example is large batches of once-fired military 308 LC brass.

Other solvents like acetone and alcohol also work but are not as fast or thorough.
 
While far from the cheapest or most environmentally friendly, I have found the fastest way to remove lube (in my case Imperial wax) is with brake cleaner. Place the cases in a small Tupperware, spray, shake, and dump out the extra cleaner.

The cases are ENTIRELY free of lube inside and out after this. The brake cleaner evaporates in minutes and the cases are ready to load. Brake cleaner is also quite cheap.

This is particularly useful if you are processing a large number of cases that require a very slippery case lube like Imperial. An example is large batches of once-fired military 308 LC brass.

Other solvents like acetone and alcohol also work but are not as fast or thorough.
 
Since i use bushing dies wit out a expander button I just give the out side of the cases a spin with imperial wax and then resize and give them a quick spin with a cloth to remove the wax as said earlier it give me the chance to inspect the cases no need to lube the inside of the necks, RW
 
While far from the cheapest or most environmentally friendly, I have found the fastest way to remove lube (in my case Imperial wax) is with brake cleaner. Place the cases in a small Tupperware, spray, shake, and dump out the extra cleaner.

The cases are ENTIRELY free of lube inside and out after this. The brake cleaner evaporates in minutes and the cases are ready to load. Brake cleaner is also quite cheap.

This is particularly useful if you are processing a large number of cases that require a very slippery case lube like Imperial. An example is large batches of once-fired military 308 LC brass.

Other solvents like acetone and alcohol also work but are not as fast or thorough.
I do the same thing, except I dump the sized brass on an old towel spread out on a concrete floor. grab two corners in each hand and alternate up and down hammock fashion for 20 seconds or so. The brass is clean and dry, ready to load.
A side benefit from break cleaner is it kills wasps, hornets on contact!

Lloyd
 
I use One-Shot when I need lube (none needed when I use a Lee Collet Die to neck size). The product dries and there's no need to remove it unless you over do it.

As was mentioned earlier the seating pressures are more uniform and accuracy is excellent. Those that have problems with One-Shot usually aren't following the instructions properly.
IF we are following instructions, I offer this stated in step 5 listed on the can: "After sizing, wipe each case and remove the remaining lubricant."
 
I use Imperial wax when sizing I wash with warm water and citric acid in a bucket then rinse with water.
I have in years gone past used citric acid for flushing oil in brass and copper pipes as harsh acids cant be used for brass and copper pipes.
Get a box put some mesh shelves in put a foot heater or hair dryer in one end and avent in the other to stop whatever heat sorce you use from overheating works a treat so well im in the process of building a more refined one.

Cheers Trev.
 

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