NICE INFO ELR VLR!!!!!!!!!!
Know you have me rethinking about high pressure lubes (petrol base) vs animal fats and oils!!! The animal oils would be easier to remove compared to the sticky and hard to remove paraffin in the petrol lubes!!!
Wonder how the mink oil would do on a lube pad?????????
I have my lube pad on a plywood base with raise 5/8" strips retaining the pad!!! The cases are on an angle to the pad!!! This allows for the lube to contact the mouth end of the neck, base of the shoulder, and mid/upper case body!!! When sizing, as the die comes down on the case, the lube will flow downward!!! I also scrape a little lube into the inside of the neck at the mouth with a little twisting motion!!! A little lube goes a long ways inside the case neck!!! If the last case pulls up a little harder past the case/die separation point, inside lube the next couple of cases because
the expander ball surface on the stem is dry!!! I don't worry about that little bit of lube on the carbon residue surface when seating bullets!!! That minute amount of oil has not totally saturated the residue and will not "ring out" the oil and migrate into the powder!!! Plus, this aids in building up the slick carbon residue!!!
Now, some of you are going to say, BILL, WTH!!!! YOU DON'T WANT LUBE ON THE SHOULDER OR YOU WILL GET LUBE DENTS ON THE SHOULDER!!! Too much, excess, lube on the shoulder causes dents!!!!! A little lube does not cause dents!!! Take it from a pro!!!! Like I stated earlier, only two dents in thousands of cases formed!!! Ya learn from experience!!!
The secret is in loading the pad!!! A couple of drops of oil on the pad!!! Then, lightly feather the oil drops around the top surface of the pad with a plastic coated playing card or old credit/debit card!! Then, with a little more firm pressure, finish trowel the working surface of the pad driving the oil into the upper surface!!! Work with one side of the pad, not the whole pad area!!! The key here is like I mentioned earlier, THIN, UNIFORM FILM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IN THE PAD AND ONTO THE CASES BY LIGHTLY ROLLING THEM ON THE PAD!!!!!! A couple of drops of oil can do approximately 400-500 223s, 200- 300 308s, and 100-150 Mag sized cases in a seasoned lube pad using high end form dies!!!
aim small
HIT BIG!!!!!!!!
BILL
Oh Definitely it comes off easier than Petrol based,
I bet it would work excellent on a Lube Pad,
As Mentioned, get some Naptha (Coleman Fuel) and Dillute it and then you could put it in a squeeze bottle or spray bottle.
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Life Hack:
Naptha is Coleman Fuel is Lighter Fluid
Take your pick on how much you want to pay per container.
Mineral Spirits is Paint thinner is Charcoal Lighter Fluid
for those who may needs basic Solvent, (Somwhat less flammable degreaser) you can get
Charcoal Lighter even at the Dollar Store
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Be mindful of the fact the Naptha does evaporate rather quickly, say within a week or two if left open to the air at all, even through the spray bottle
I have to redillute later if it sits for awhile but I dont mind that for how useful the homebrew is haha.
In a spray bottle, if the the Mink Paste solidifies again, I will simply swap out the Squirter and stem with a clean one and go to work.
With a drip bottle that's capped it may not be an issue.
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I also lube the inside of the necks as you do, I use a nylong brush and roll it in Imperial and still use Imperial for that, its lasts about 20 cases before having to roll it in Imperial again.
Good method I think as you say, a little goes a long way inside the case.
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As for Shoulder Lube dents I will also add this
I have not experienced this once I completely switched to Mink Oil.
I did get it a little bit with Imperial and had to clean the die occasionally'
But the Mink Oil does not seem to build up inside enough to have caused this
Could be as you said, I thinner film does the job needed.
You really owe it to yourself for the price of a Mink Oil Can costs to try it out, I'm sure you will be well pleased. Look for a brand that is somewhat soft like Imperial
I have tried 2 so far and the green Can is what has the consistency I like to get the perfect smear on your finger and last a good while, I maybe dip my finger every 3 cases while single stage loading
Plus the softer stuff dissolves in the Naptha Easier
BTW, it must be Naptha FYI, I tried, MEK and Acetone and Toluene.
Solvents are very interesting, A less eduacated person would think solvents should all be pretty much the same and do the same, but they do not on some products, like Wax or Mink Oil
Naptha is the only Solvent I also know between those I just mentioned that will also dissolve Parrafin Wax, so Mink Oil acts similar to wax in that aspect anyway
As you may know, liquid wax is a phenomenal lubricant, which I have used to extract stuck bolts with ease after heating and melting wax into the threads, So I'd be interested to know if Mink Oil and melted Paraffin wax have any similarities.
Cool Info you provide Wild Bill!!!
