Can dry neck lube harm a barrel?

[T-shooter]

I tried graphite and HBN on case necks and on bullets. I saw no measurable results on accuracy, did see measurable results on seating pressure. I've found the best I can do is keep the brass annealed, necks consistently clean. My bullets are coated with HBN so no need to coat necks with dry lube.

Are you using the HBN in powder form and is it applied like the graphite?

 

[Scarab]

Are you using the HBN in powder form and is it applied like the graphite?

HBN is a powder, I put bullets in a jar with 1/2 teaspoon of HBN and throw the jar in my vibratory case cleaner for about 45 minutes.
I used a case neck brush dipped in HBN to coat the inside of the necks, but never saw any accuracy improvement. Again having all your brass annealed the same and necks clean seemed to help me the most.

 

[T-shooter]

HBN is a powder, I put bullets in a jar with 1/2 teaspoon of HBN and throw the jar in my vibratory case cleaner for about 45 minutes.
I used a case neck brush dipped in HBN to coat the inside of the necks, but never saw any accuracy improvement. Again having all your brass annealed the same and necks clean seemed to help me the most.

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

 

[msinc]

Well, if dry lube, whether graphite or mica could hurt a barrel mine would be long burned up by now. I have used the dry stuff and it never hurt anything. In fact, I couldn't tell any difference from rifles I fired with it in the cases and those I did not.
This is gonna make some of you guys schidtt down both legs, but I have been using Imperial sizing wax. Just a tiny bit on my fingers when I handle the bullet to seat it works fine. The bullets seat easy, they don't stick or lock in the case and they shoot no different, zero. Cant see it on a chronograph and believe it or not the world hasn't come to a complete or partial stop. No misfires either.
All this said, yeah, I keep the brass annealed and I don't sts clean it every time I load. I guess I better add that I typically store some of my ammo for up to 6 months and still not a problem with the little bit of wax I use. I have pulled a few after that length of time and they came out as easy as they went in......

 

[T-shooter]

Well, if dry lube, whether graphite or mica could hurt a barrel mine would be long burned up by now. I have used the dry stuff and it never hurt anything. In fact, I couldn't tell any difference from rifles I fired with it in the cases and those I did not.
This is gonna make some of you guys schidtt down both legs, but I have been using Imperial sizing wax. Just a tiny bit on my fingers when I handle the bullet to seat it works fine. The bullets seat easy, they don't stick or lock in the case and they shoot no different, zero. Cant see it on a chronograph and believe it or not the world hasn't come to a complete or partial stop. No misfires either.
All this said, yeah, I keep the brass annealed and I don't sts clean it every time I load. I guess I better add that I typically store some of my ammo for up to 6 months and still not a problem with the little bit of wax I use. I have pulled a few after that length of time and they came out as easy as they went in......

I agree and the Unique lube works like you described too. Wonder how long and if it ever dries out. Some ammo I reload is meant to be kept for years, not shot in a few months. Hate to have several thousand rounds of welded ammo. I said earlier I seated a few bullets with Unique and got the necks hot with a torch. Not extremely hot, and they couldn't be pulled out. Makes me think if one sat in a really hot chamber for a period of time (rapid fire with a semi-auto) if the same thing could happen. If I had any Imperial, I'd try it with heat too.

 

[alb]

I read someplace that graphite when heated turns into an abrasive. I never could find proof of this and a tech at Sinclair that markets the Imperial said he uses it all the time in the necks. I guess time will tell. Hope someone else here has some experience.

In order to facilitate handling and reduce static charge, powder itself is coated with graphite; that's why it's gray. Raw nitrocellulose is sort of a yellow cream color.

 

[Lightload]

Prior to sizing, I lube the inside of the case mouths with Hornady One-Shot case lube. I just get a bundle of cases in my hand and spray them so that I'm getting one side of the case mouth. Then I turn my hand 180 and spray so I get the other side of the mouth. The cases slide over the expander ball nice and smooth and there's still residual lube in the mouth to facilitate seating bullets.
I really like Hornady One Shot! Works great and smells almost as good as Hoppes #9!

 

[MoneyWaster]

I appreciate all of the responses. I ended up lubing the inside of the case necks with dry lube using a Q-tip. We'll see if it has a measureable difference in my results.

 

[HPMike800]

I'm considering lubing the inside of case necks in an effort to lower the SD of my reloads. I clean my cases with stainless media and have read that this process removes carbon in the neck, which some say has a negative effect on bullet release (too much grip). Is this a misguided idea? Can I harm my barrel with the graphite in the lube (Imperial dry neck lube)?

Lou

Too Much Work!!!
The stainless pin system does not clean all portions of the case at the same rate. The outside cleans fastest, the case head/pocket is next and the inside walls clean the slowest.

Just put a timer on the tumbler and adjust it so that it leaves enough carbon in the neck to act as a bond breaker. Works just fine.