Can dry neck lube harm a barrel?

[MoneyWaster]

I'm considering lubing the inside of case necks in an effort to lower the SD of my reloads. I clean my cases with stainless media and have read that this process removes carbon in the neck, which some say has a negative effect on bullet release (too much grip). Is this a misguided idea? Can I harm my barrel with the graphite in the lube (Imperial dry neck lube)?

Lou

 

[SheepDog]

Lou,
Applied in the correct amounts dry lube won't hurt your barrel. Whether it will have any impact on the SD of your loads can only be answered by trying it. There are a lot of variables that, together, give the SD and bullet pull is one of the lesser details in my opinion.

 

[MoneyWaster]

SheepDog,

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the one concern is the ability to apply the same amount to each case. If I dip a Q-tip into the graphite it will initially hold a lot of lube and apply less to each consecutive case lubed thus adding variability. Perhaps this in itself could cause problems. I'm not sure.

 

[T-shooter]

I'm considering lubing the inside of case necks in an effort to lower the SD of my reloads. I clean my cases with stainless media and have read that this process removes carbon in the neck, which some say has a negative effect on bullet release (too much grip). Is this a misguided idea? Can I harm my barrel with the graphite in the lube (Imperial dry neck lube)?

Lou

I don't know. I have started using the Imperial Convenience pack which appears to be graphite and comes with a container of tiny ceramic pellets used to apply it. I ran across some cold welding issues. I had some Hornady brass for a .308 all prepped the exact same way at the same time. I pulled them, with a collet die, to change the powder loads. About 1 out of every 15 was stuck, some so tight I had to smack the press handle with my hand to break them loose. These only had an interference fit on .001" in the necks. The others I could pull with one finger on the handle. The cases were lubed using Unique, cleaned in hot water and dish soap, then dried and tumbled in walnut shells. Then (maybe not a good idea) used a soft brush to remove any dust from the insides.

I read someplace that graphite when heated turns into an abrasive. I never could find proof of this and a tech at Sinclair that markets the Imperial said he uses it all the time in the necks. I guess time will tell. Hope someone else here has some experience.

 

[SheepDog]

I use a wire brush to apply lube to my case necks and a small container filled with lead shot and the graphite to apply it to the brush.

Graphite is a product used for a lot of things. Grinding and lapping mixtures are different graphite than the lube. Not only the size and shape but the way it is compounded make the differences.

 

[T-shooter]

SheepDog,

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the one concern is the ability to apply the same amount to each case. If I dip a Q-tip into the graphite it will initially hold a lot of lube and apply less to each consecutive case lubed thus adding variability. Perhaps this in itself could cause problems. I'm not sure.

Watch this video. It shows how to apply it and works well.

 

[SheepDog]

When seating bullets dipping the case in the lube leaves lube on the outside of the neck. It seems like a waste to dip the case and then wipe off the outside so I dip the brush and run it into the mouth. Charge the case with powder and seat the bullet. I buy powdered graphite lube and use lead shot because it is a tenth the cost of the imperial lube. I'm a cheap old man but I like quality. Do it either way to see if it helps you get where you want to be. If not then leave it behind and continue experimenting to get there.

 

[Lone Hunter]

I just dip the depth the bullet is going into the case. I dip just the bullet not the case when seating. I used to dip the case and after firing there was a lot of black on the outside of the case so I assumed the chamber would be filling up with graphite. I dip it so as not to get the so called "Cold Weld" between the bullet and neck. I clean with S/S media and it makes a difference(using graphite)on the amount of pressure it takes to seat a bullet.

 

[MoneyWaster]

Lone Hunter,

Did the lubrication of the bullets result in a measurable performance increase in your reloads, particularly SD?

Lou

 

[Homerange]

Like the above vid shows, that process works just fine for graphite too. Fine #8 or smaller bird shot and plenty or graphite mixed in.
Don't worry about internal case contamination, the bird shot helps full any excess graphite out.
This method (graphite) can be used for FL sizing too but the first few sizes need a little more on the outer of the case to properly coat the inside of the die. Bit messy/dirty but if you don't mind the black fingers it works very well.
It will prevent or at least reduce cold welding which can be a problem with loads that have been made some time before shooting.
If neck tensions are uniform it can help SD's but finding the right powder/charge combination will too.

 

[Webster]

I don't know. I have started using the Imperial Convenience pack which appears to be graphite and comes with a container of tiny ceramic pellets used to apply it. I ran across some cold welding issues. I had some Hornady brass for a .308 all prepped the exact same way at the same time. I pulled them, with a collet die, to change the powder loads. About 1 out of every 15 was stuck, some so tight I had to smack the press handle with my hand to break them loose. These only had an interference fit on .001" in the necks. The others I could pull with one finger on the handle. The cases were lubed using Unique, cleaned in hot water and dish soap, then dried and tumbled in walnut shells. Then (maybe not a good idea) used a soft brush to remove any dust from the insides.

I read someplace that graphite when heated turns into an abrasive. I never could find proof of this and a tech at Sinclair that markets the Imperial said he uses it all the time in the necks. I guess time will tell. Hope someone else here has some experience.

Graphite is a particular crystal form of carbon. I would think it would burn up? CO2.

 

[snakepit]

Once the Imperial Dry Neck Lube is applied to the inside of the case neck do you lose much of the dry lube in the neck when you drop/load your powder into the case?

 

[ljmontano]

When I load for a match I will place all my Bullets on a shop towel and and hit them with one shot let dry rotate a 1/4 turn hit them again and let dry then load. No black powder to deal with. Went from 40+ psi to 25-30 psi when seating bullets. No impact change at 1k. Works great no mess you can wipe down your loaded rounds if you wish but no need.

 

[T-shooter]

When I load for a match I will place all my Bullets on a shop towel and and hit them with one shot let dry rotate a 1/4 turn hit them again and let dry then load. No black powder to deal with. Went from 40+ psi to 25-30 psi when seating bullets. No impact change at 1k. Works great no mess you can wipe down your loaded rounds if you wish but no need.

As an experiment I coated the inside of a few necks with Hornady Unique. Very slippery. The bullets seated easier. I wonder what happens if it dries out. So I added a little heat from a torch on the necks, nothing extreme. Let them cool and tried to pull the bullets out with a collet puller in the press. If only Loctite could hold something that tight! they wouldn't budge and I threw them away. I don't know if this could actually happen. It may take several years to dry. For right now, I'll stick with the graphite because it shouldn't change over time.

 

[ljmontano]

I got this from John Whidden he lubes the inside of his necks i just spray the bullets same difference. Can't be to bad John is at the top of the game.

 

[muleystalker]

Forget the graphite and just use HBN, better yet just coat your bullets with HBN.

 

[comagutsa]

I just dip the depth the bullet is going into the case. I dip just the bullet not the case when seating. I used to dip the case and after firing there was a lot of black on the outside of the case so I assumed the chamber would be filling up with graphite. I dip it so as not to get the so called "Cold Weld" between the bullet and neck. I clean with S/S media and it makes a difference(using graphite)on the amount of pressure it takes to seat a bullet.

yep i am the same .. i dip the base of the bullet and not the case neck.. and yes it made a huge difference to my seating pressures, its stopped the bullets from gripping on the sides of the neck when seating
i used to put my rounds into 2 groups after seating (before i used graphite powder), the ones that took bugger all pressure and the ones that seated with more pressure and the ones the seated easier were more accurate
now i don't clean my brass with a SS tumbler anymore and have gone back to a vibration tumbler as they don't clean the necks out spotless like SS does

 

[geraldgee]

I find myself using the SS media less and less. It makes the cases look great and no question about how well it cleans them up. But is does play hell on the case mouth and completely removes the beneficial carbon from firing.

When I do wet tumble, I will take a bronze cleaning brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool and polish or burnish the inside of the case neck. I start with a brush one caliber smaller to allow for a good wrap of steel wool and polish well. When I carefully do my part, I have very acceptable SD's.

 

[carlsbad]

I quit using ss media on rifle cases for a variety of reasons including mouth dings. --Jerry

 

[Scarab]

I tried graphite and HBN on case necks and on bullets. I saw no measurable results on accuracy, did see measurable results on seating pressure. I've found the best I can do is keep the brass annealed, necks consistently clean. My bullets are coated with HBN so no need to coat necks with dry lube.