Br Brass

[25AI260]

Howdy
is anyone making 30 Br brass ..?

getting ready to have made so i'm going to need brass an dies..
my smitty said he would need a couple of pcs an a loaded round [ no powder or primer] to set it up..
also what is the heavist bullet i should have him throat it for with a 17tw

thanks..

Edit.. i knew it was close the barrel is here .... moving along

 

[cmillard]

look on this site under the 30BR for what bullets being used. i think 118-125s are the norm. you will have to get 6BR lapua brass and neck them up to .308. Then run them into a full length sizing die. give hornady a call and see if they have any hydraulic form dies for the 30BR--if they do, that will take a lot of hassle out of forming. if you have a wilson type reloading setup, the 6BR dies will work (I believe) for the 30BR. just need the proper diameter neck bushings and you will need a seater stem for .308 bullets for the seater die. I say "I believe" up top because in the sinclair catalog, the wilson dies simply say BR for that cartidge and it's cousins for the same product #. (22BR, 6BR, 7BR, 30BR, etc.)

 

[fatalbert]

Check out the cartrage spec page on this sight,it has a very good article about just that process.If you need help PM me I just went through all that stuff with my 30.It's not real hard to do yourself but it is very time consuming.I don't remember the mans name( I think he is a contributer here) but he makes the brass and sells it on his sight,sorry I don't remember his name.I can tell you from exspirenence that this sight is the place to get help,these guys will help you with any question you have.I have had several small problems and without exception all have been cleared up by asking the question here.

 

[SmokinJoe]

One good source for turned to spec 30BR brass is Ron Hoehn. His BR shooting supply business is located in the St Louis area. Find his contact info & give him a call. You should have your barrel reamed with zero freebore if you are going to shoot the popular BR bullets, esp the 10 ogive. If you are going to shoot strictly 7-ish ogive, you might want to consider up to .040" freebore for slightly more powder capacity with those bullets. However, from what I have heard most rifles shoot very well (maybe best) at the lower loads around 33.7 grs H4198 with the 7 ogive bullets, so would probably be best to use the Robinett zero freebore reamer initially & see how it works out; it has worked amazingly well for the past ten years or so. I would also recommend that you not use bullets over 125 grs in the 30BR. Larger bullets can be used, but you might need a faster twist, plus the ballistics deteriorate pretty quickly above 125 grs.

 

[25AI260]

thanks... i'm not sure what you mean by 7 an 10 ogive bullets, i do understand where the ogive starts just from the tip to just before the bearing surface..

on the free bore i do plan [ or i think for now i do ] plan on throating for a 125gr bullet thats open rite now .. what free bore or no free bore is best then..

the barrel is here an its a 17tw so thats final.. now its 29" HB, what would be a good finished length.. planning on a optional screw on muzzle break as well

on the hornady hydraulic forming die.. those are without question the way to go.. i have a set for made by Ben Syling for my wildcat.. but i didn't think i'd need them for the 30Br this cartridge has been around so long i thought some one would be making the by now ? whatts up Lupau ????

edit.. Ps/ if i neck up a 6mBr case .. make a lite load an fire it in the 30br will it form or will it split ?

 

[25AI260]

Well done gunamonth.. you should be writeing articals fo HandLoader..
thank you for the info...

if i can pic an choose, i think i'd go with a No turn neck chamber an buy brass already made Or make my own with the Hydrualic form die

i tried Once the cornmeal thing pistol primer an 1/4 pc. of tolite paper .. way to messy.. my wife wanted to know what i was cooking lol's

the ogive thing 7 an 10 thing i haven't grasp'd i visualize a.. l o n g sharp point with the bearing surface set back being less.. or the opposite more sureface an shaped like round nose... or maybe the meplat being a re sized

well i'm gona have to read http://www.6mmbr.com/30BR.html a few more times

 

[tenring]

Is there an easy way to look at a bullet and determine whether it is 7, 8, 9, 10 or some other ogive? Does this just come with experience?

 

[stgw77]

Hi guys,
when speaking about ogives, could one please tell me which ogive has Berger .30 cal. bullet 115 grs heavy? 7 or 10 or other? Can not find that info. Thanks!
Klemen

 

[25AI260]

gunamonth...
somehow i think i have it.. somewhat complex an interesting subject that really doesn't interest me what i mean is i think it would be easier taking the bullets makers word for what he says it is.. mathematically it isn't worth the time unless you/me were to be making the projectile
i can see what what say unless both 7 an 10 were next to each other it would hard to guess one single bullets number [ 4-10 ) if you could call it... what would a Berger vld 95gr bullets oh-jive be... lol's
as i said before the only ogive i actually understood ??? was from the meplat to just before the bearing surface... before it it got technical

 

[25AI260]

Hey thanks for posting the pic ... seeing it is just how i imagined it would look

so this is what i'll be looking for when i get the 30 set up.. Hmmm i'm guessing the the 7 shoots better to 300 yrds ???

Robinette should give you some praise... you did an excellet job expaining too..

thanks...

 

[wapiti25]

I found when fire forming brass such as BR, red dot lights easier than bullseye. I had to make 7mmBR out of 308 win as the BR Basic brass was not available. In those years there was no fully formed brass of any kind. I was shooting an XP-100.

 

[wapiti25]

How about making your 30BR brass out of 7mmBR. I think remington is still making it on a seaseonal basis. The neck is closer than the 6, I also remington brass is not as uniform but it may get you started. Just a thought. I used to cut the neck off in the shoulder of 308 brass, then anneal, form down in 2 steps, re-anneal then to 7mm, bore the necks, re-size, and fire form. I made my own dies and tools.