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Box Stands for Deer Hunting

The first one is kind of a experiment and then hindsight kicks in. Hold your tolerances close on windows and doors so they don’t cause you grief when you finish it out. Take every precaution to keep the wood dry and you’ll be happy with your project. Can’t wait to see what you come up with!

Yep, I know about that hindsight. Last winter when I built my platform (page 7 here) the trapdoor was in the back where the chair belonged. I realized my mistake after I had stood the thing up and finished flooring with trapdoor in. I cussed all turkey season and then after season ended I lowered the platform back to the ground, took the legs back out, turned it back around so that trapdoor would be in front, put the legs back in and then nearly tore it apart standing the platform back up again.

Missed a nice 8 pointer standing broadside at about 100 yards with my 243 shooting offhand out of the popup blind. Put the crosshairs on the boiler room of the deer and started squeezing the trigger and damn if the crosshair didn't wobble up above the deer when it fired. Yep, should have been using a shooting stick. I understand that I need to give a lot of thought to the shelves on my windows when I build my box. Hmm, I really have not figured out my windows yet. Is it best to build the windows first (or buy them?) and then build the window frame to fit? Or build the window frame and then the window to fit? LOL, I'm lost.

My plans are to completely build the box on the ground with the sides sort of tacked together with screws. Design the roof to fit. When built I will just unscrew the sides and place them one by one on the platform. Screws back in and put the roof on top and I will be finished. Will this plan work?
 
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Yep, I know about that hindsight. Last winter when I built my platform (page 7 here) the trapdoor was in the back where the chair belonged. I realized my mistake after I had stood the thing up and finished flooring with trapdoor in. I cussed all turkey season and then after season ended I lowered the platform back to the ground, took the legs back out, turned it back around so that trapdoor would be in front, put the legs back in and then nearly tore it apart standing the platform back up again.

Missed a nice 8 pointer standing broadside at about 100 yards with my 243 shooting offhand out of the popup blind. Put the crosshairs on the boiler room of the deer and started squeezing the trigger and damn if the crosshair didn't wobble up above the deer when it fired. Yep, should have been using a shooting stick. I understand that I need to give a lot of thought to the shelves on my windows when I build my box. Hmm, I really have not figured out my windows yet. Is it best to build the windows first (or buy them?) and then build the window frame to fit? Or build the window frame and then the window to fit? LOL, I'm lost.

My plans are to completely build the box on the ground with the sides sort of tacked together with screws. Design the roof to fit. When built I will just unscrew the sides and place them one by one on the platform. Screws back in and put the roof on top and I will be finished. Will this plan work?

I build mine at home and reassemble on site. Definitely Buy the windows first before you build your walls but you may want to leave them out until it’s stood. I add the interior components after it’s up.

You asked about treated lumber, I am only using treated T&G 2x6 on the floors now for several reasons. The floor needs to last for the stand to last and isn’t repairable like a wall.
 
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We built a 4x8 blind at the shop with rails on the bottom so we could pull into place with the tractor. We have to move it out of the field each year so it is easier to just hook to it and pull it to the edge of the field than try to pick it up. It has a 4x4 frame about 10 feet tall, with plywood top and sides.
 
I try keep the legs off the dirt with something like a concrete pad or replaceable piece of hardwood. It keeps it from sinking out of level also. The bottom of of 4x4 would probably sink in under the weight and rot off pretty quick. Build it once and make it last if you can plan it out, so you can build another and move around when needed.
 
One evening when your bored and want to make a big mess, take 2 x 4s’ and make square boxes around 16” to make pads of sackcrete and wire. I did this and have them under my free standing 6 x 8 and glad I did. The others that lean against 2 trees have treated 6x6 or oak slabs bolted under the ladders so they can slide with the swaying of the trees but stay level.
 
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Here’s a ladder stand design if you need one. Made of 11ga 1”x 1” or 1-1/4” for over weight. Very quiet for a stealthy hunt, the rails at the knee level allows you to stand and shoot without falling over the side or stepping off the edge. It works
 

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Mike what was material costs on this?
This would be perfect for hunting back side of my property
 
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Here’s a ladder stand design if you need one. Made of 11ga 1”x 1” or 1-1/4” for over weight. Very quiet for a stealthy hunt, the rails at the knee level allows you to stand and shoot without falling over the side or stepping off the edge. It works
There's some money it that puppy. Forget the labor, that's easy. There not giving steel away these days. That's a HD design and heavy too. Very nice well made ladder stand and can actually box it in if wanted.
 
Mike what was material costs on this?
This would be perfect for hunting back side of my property

I think around $150 - 200 depends on finding wire remnants or buying a full sheet. Probably takes 6-7 sticks of tubing to build so that would depend on length of ladder.
 
I sure all of this has been covered before...

I like an insulated floor especially if it is elevated and wind can blow underneath. Plywood on both sides of floor with foam board sandwiched between the cross braces. It dampens noise of chair wheels and also keeps you feet warm.

The other thing is giving some thought to the proper height of windows, which is not just about the shooting height of a seated hunter but also the location/topography of where blind will be located. If the blind is elevated and the shooting lane is on gradual decline then window height needs to be lower.

I hunted a friend's blind that was on slight elevation with windows at standard height. At 50 yards sitting in a chair my muzzle was pointing 8' above the target. I had to stand to get the correct angle to shoot the pigs. Just something to think about if you are making your blind at home and then driving it out to the lease. After al that time and effort no one wants to discover the miscalculation and regret not having taken some measurements (laser level) before building it. Happy hunting
 
The first one is kind of a experiment and then hindsight kicks in. Hold your tolerances close on windows and doors so they don’t cause you grief when you finish it out. Take every precaution to keep the wood dry and you’ll be happy with your project. Can’t wait to see what you come up with!
 

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