Boretech eliminator?
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
No. It wouldnt be needed if so
Ahhhh…….logic……
6.5 forever
Silver $$ Contributor
I now use C4 exclusively. Best for my cleaning needs.
6.5 forever
Silver $$ Contributor
No thanks. I won't tell you how to. I just state what works for me.
PhilC
Silver $$ Contributor
I do as well, combined with Cu2 I don't need any other cleaners. Being odor free is a nice bonus that lets me clean in the house and keep my wife happy.
Aaron, would you mind sharing why Eliminator before C-4 ? I’ve always assumed the other way around so this will be a learning moment for me.
Thanks
Jim
wedgy
Gold $$ Contributor
I run a patch of C4 before I leave the range and seems to make cleaning easier when I get home. If I shoot 20 rounds with H1000 the patch comes out dark gray but if I'm shooting Reloder 33 or M570 I can run 5 patches that come out black. I also short stroke the throat and first couple inches of the barrel. I tried Thorouclean for the first time and got a medium darker gray patch out after it was clean using Eliminator and C4 so there was a bit left that the Boretech didn't get.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
The thorroclean is iosso in suspension so every patch will come out black even in a new barrel
If you have that much time that you only use eliminator and nothing else ever, I envy you.
If I had a week to clean a barrel, hard carbon, that’d mean I’m rich/retired or enjoyed cleaning. I’ll probably never have to worry about any of the aforementioned 3 possibilities.
If you have hard carbon that takes a week to clear with chemicals, you might want to reevalute your cleaning proceduresIf you have that much time that you only use eliminator and nothing else ever, I envy you.
If I had a week to clean a barrel, hard carbon, that’d mean I’m rich/retired or enjoyed cleaning. I’ll probably never have to worry about any of the aforementioned 3 possibilities.
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
I called them and asked them what the difference was between c4 and vortex eliminator and the rep told me that it's the same thing in eliminator that's in c4. Boretech eliminator is a combination of two additives where c4 is the single additive. So essentially c4 is just stronger Boretech eliminator with the carbon additive.
I have not noticed that the c4 is any improvement by itself.
I have not noticed that the c4 is any improvement by itself.
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Me too.
When I followed with Cu+2, I got first shot flyers and had to shoot a few rounds before point of impact settled down to consistency. That was about 2 years ago or so. Since then, it has been C4 and bronze brush. All is good. Rifles are happy.
PS: Cleaning procedures are like noses, everyone has one.
You have to find what works for you. Sounds like you have - me too. Show me a chemical that takes the hard carbon out after 150 rounds or so with no abrasive, or brush. I like witches brew or something similar. Eliminator will almost finish the job. But if I’m going to clean it I’m gonna actually complete the process. So I fast forward to what I’m gonna need anyway. Skip the foreplay. Go to the part of the movie where you are greasing the lugs and putting it in the safe. I’m going to get some thoro-clean next, I’ve heard good things.If you have hard carbon that takes a week to clear with chemicals, you might want to reevalute your cleaning procedures
What are you doing, 5 rounds and cleaning?
Ned Ludd
Silver $$ Contributor
Ahhhhhhhhh...another cleaning thread. 
Removing hard carbon, like the baked-in volcanic glass kind of carbon, requires mechanical action, period. There is no single safe cleaning agent or solvent that can clean everything without some kind of mechanical action such as a bronze brush and/or occasional treatment with abrasive cleaners. Anyone tells you different, you probably don't want to be listening to them.
The main reason for using a carbon cleaner such as C4 first is to remove most of the carbon deposits so that the subsequent copper-remover can work with maximum efficiency. If there is a layer of copper underneath the carbon deposits, the copper cleaner may not be working optimally until sufficient patches have been put through the bore to get most of the carbon out. Boretech Eliminator is formulated to remove both carbon and copper, whereas C4 is primarily a carbon remover. I use C4 carbon remover first, followed by Cu+2 copper remover, combined with bronze brush treatment at each step. This approach works pretty well for me, but that is solely my opinion.
A significant amount of loose carbon fouling can actually be removed by simply running some patches wetted with nothing more than ordinary tap water, or some benign organic solvent such as acetone or methanol. If you don't believe that, try it. Is tap water or acetone/methanol as good as C4? I don't think so, or I wouldn't spend the money for C4. Nonetheless, it's not all that difficult to remove a significant amount of loose carbon fouling. Hard carbon is a different story as I mentioned above. I mention this because a long time ago, I used to use only the Cu+2 copper remover for both carbon and copper. That approach in combination with bronze brush treatment worked, but I think using the C4 first does a little better job of getting most of the carbon out. It certainly seems to come out a little easier and more completely using C4 followed by Cu+2.
The bottom line is that there are numerous commercial barrel-cleaning agents available. Everyone has their favorites. Most of them will work, but perhaps with varying degrees of efficacy. IMO, the main difference between them is not whether they will work at all, but one of the effort involved. In other words, how many patches does a particular cleaning agent require and how much additional mechanical effort does it take to really get the bore clean? So the specific brand of cleaning agent(s) someone chooses and the order in which they choose to use them is really a personal choice, nothing more. Most will work if sufficient effort and some kind of mechanical action are applied.
Removing hard carbon, like the baked-in volcanic glass kind of carbon, requires mechanical action, period. There is no single safe cleaning agent or solvent that can clean everything without some kind of mechanical action such as a bronze brush and/or occasional treatment with abrasive cleaners. Anyone tells you different, you probably don't want to be listening to them.
The main reason for using a carbon cleaner such as C4 first is to remove most of the carbon deposits so that the subsequent copper-remover can work with maximum efficiency. If there is a layer of copper underneath the carbon deposits, the copper cleaner may not be working optimally until sufficient patches have been put through the bore to get most of the carbon out. Boretech Eliminator is formulated to remove both carbon and copper, whereas C4 is primarily a carbon remover. I use C4 carbon remover first, followed by Cu+2 copper remover, combined with bronze brush treatment at each step. This approach works pretty well for me, but that is solely my opinion.
A significant amount of loose carbon fouling can actually be removed by simply running some patches wetted with nothing more than ordinary tap water, or some benign organic solvent such as acetone or methanol. If you don't believe that, try it. Is tap water or acetone/methanol as good as C4? I don't think so, or I wouldn't spend the money for C4. Nonetheless, it's not all that difficult to remove a significant amount of loose carbon fouling. Hard carbon is a different story as I mentioned above. I mention this because a long time ago, I used to use only the Cu+2 copper remover for both carbon and copper. That approach in combination with bronze brush treatment worked, but I think using the C4 first does a little better job of getting most of the carbon out. It certainly seems to come out a little easier and more completely using C4 followed by Cu+2.
The bottom line is that there are numerous commercial barrel-cleaning agents available. Everyone has their favorites. Most of them will work, but perhaps with varying degrees of efficacy. IMO, the main difference between them is not whether they will work at all, but one of the effort involved. In other words, how many patches does a particular cleaning agent require and how much additional mechanical effort does it take to really get the bore clean? So the specific brand of cleaning agent(s) someone chooses and the order in which they choose to use them is really a personal choice, nothing more. Most will work if sufficient effort and some kind of mechanical action are applied.
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