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Bix and Andy comp trigger issue

A couple of weeks ago I encountered an issue similar to what WIB3 describes shortly after disassembling and cleaning the trigger parts. I've had a few of these triggers apart over the past few years as part of routine maintenance and never had this happen before.

The first thing that came to mind is that I used acetone instead of brake cleaner. I highly doubted that was the cause but took the trigger apart to repeat the cleaning and to make sure everything was in its place as a starting point.

As I was putting parts into a jar to wash them in brake cleaner I noticed the bearings were sticking to the other parts. Magnetized!

Unlike all the times before, I had used a magnetic parts tray to hold things during disassembly. It magnetized my trigger parts!

I put things back together, minus the cover, to observe the change in behavior and as you might imagine when the bearings are 'sticking' to each other, or the surrounding parts, that the trigger does not function reliably. Problem found!

I initially tried a few hacks for demagnetizing from the internet as a quick fix without luck. I ended up buying a $10 gadget online that is meant for the task.

After demagnetizing parts everything is working as it should.

I didn't see my scenario mentioned in any of the posts I read, and would bet I'm not the only person with one of those parts trays around, so figured it was worth sharing.
Thanks for letting us know your experience. I wondered if anyone else had magnetized parts.

The balls in my trigger were magnetized and after doing the polish work recommended by @Alex Wheeler it didn't seem to have any ill affect on my trigger.
 
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Thank you everyone for your support and help. How does one demagnetize the components of a trigger. Season starts in 1month.
 
Does anyone know where to purchase carbide ball bearings to replace the ones that came in the original trigger. I believe that this upgrade would stop the problem.
 
The trigger worked flawlessly until about 150 shots then got stupid. Thought it was dirt and oil residue from cleaning. Watched videos on YouTube and cleaned. The problem seems to still exist. When traveling long distances to complete in matches know one wants to be taken out of the game by a trigger failure that could have been avoided. Carbide is non-metallic.
 
The trigger worked flawlessly until about 150 shots then got stupid. Thought it was dirt and oil residue from cleaning. Watched videos on YouTube and cleaned. The problem seems to still exist. When traveling long distances to complete in matches know one wants to be taken out of the game by a trigger failure that could have been avoided. Carbide is non-metallic.
Either Alex Wheeler or Fclass John mentioned the carbide bearings. I think it was Alex. You may want to reach out to him.

 
Does anyone know where to purchase carbide ball bearings to replace the ones that came in the original trigger. I believe that this upgrade would stop the problem.
 
The trigger worked flawlessly until about 150 shots then got stupid. Thought it was dirt and oil residue from cleaning. Watched videos on YouTube and cleaned. The problem seems to still exist. When traveling long distances to complete in matches know one wants to be taken out of the game by a trigger failure that could have been avoided. Carbide is non-metallic.
Carbide is a powdered metal and is magnetic although less magnetic
 
Does anyone know where to purchase carbide ball bearings to replace the ones that came in the original trigger. I believe that this upgrade would stop the problem.
I use 5mm ceramic balls in one of my Bix-n-Andy Competition triggers.

 
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For some time now, they come with the 2 parts polished.
That's what I keep reading but I've seen 3 that were purchased new last year without the polishing to these parts. If they were polished, someone needs to stand a little closer to the polishing wheel.
I know of a 4th that wasn't polished but it was purchased new about 2 1/2 years ago.

All 4 of them had the click Alex describes. I polished them up and they are running well under 1 ounce with no problems at all. I did change the balls in one to ceramic balls.
 
What has been your experiences with them Alex?
Limited but good. Slightly more drag on the cocking piece but its so little I dont care. If its consistent it would hurt anything. And I mean it is so small I shouldnt even mention it. I just ordered 10 of the Sidhe triggers. So far feedback is good. I wont make comparisons on a hand full of triggers. After I see a few hundred I will have a solid opinion.
 
Limited but good. Slightly more drag on the cocking piece but its so little I dont care. If its consistent it would hurt anything. And I mean it is so small I shouldnt even mention it. I just ordered 10 of the Sidhe triggers. So far feedback is good. I wont make comparisons on a hand full of triggers. After I see a few hundred I will have a solid opinion.
I set up a 2500 rifle after our match so people could fiddle with the Sidhe BR trigger and it was well received. That trigger has 600 rounds so far, without a hiccup. Just touch it and a hole appears in the target. (Usually where a dot once was, lol )
 
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After cleaning each part with brake cleaner it failed to drop the fir

After cleaning each part with brake cleaner it failed to drop the firing pin after 30 shots. Panda action. Any ideas? It could not be dirt
If I remember correctly Jewell recommends cleaning with lighter fluid. They said when it dries it leaves a very light layer of lubrication. I would think any mechanism should at least have a little light vis lube on it. The issue they usually give is dirt and dust stick to the lube.
 
Let me hear your thoughts on them? I just recieved one to try this year.
I’ve switched every NEW gun I have to Sidhe BR. (I still use Jewells in my Flash Turbos)
I’m working with a new 2500x /Sidhe trigger now and it is great. No troubles at sub ounce.
 

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