Bix and Andy comp trigger issue

[Chuckhunter]

One other thing and I'll shut up. The B&A is a fairly closed trigger, and that's probably a good thing. But it doesn't lend itself to flushing with lighter fluid very well, where other triggers can many/most times get a good flushing and correct a problem.

That's the reason their closed, B&A's need to be bone dry. Already it's obvious to me that most of the issues I'm hearing here are happening to people who haven't taken the time to read the do's and
don't s of maintaining a B&A properly. That's not the trigger's fault.

 

[WayneShaw]

That's the reason their closed, B&A's need to be bone dry. Already it's obvious to me that most of the issues I'm hearing here are happening to people who haven't taken the time to read the do's and
don't s of maintaining a B&A properly. That's not the trigger's fault.

When the trigger causes trouble during a match, you do what you can. I have taken one apart at a match but I was lucky there were 3 relays and I had time.

 

[LarryDScott]

I'll offer this opinion and then I'm done.

The Jewell trigger now resides in the lofty realm of Gold box Lapua brass. It certainly is/was a very good trigger. But folks, that ship has sailed.

I bought my first BnA trigger after asking BAT why they offered the 0-30 and 10-20 trigger hangers. I was told that QC with the Jewells had gotten so bad that BAT had to offer their customers the ability to adjust the pin fall on their actions to compensate. Never bought another Jewell after hearing that revelation. Good luck to everyone.

In defense of Jewell quality, that's a matter of ones opinion. The ONLY problem I ever had w/a JEWELL was because of a trigger hanger that was out of spec. and that was many yrs before the shut down. I have also read the bad press that Jewell got when they got dusty and wouldn't work. In defense of that, I owned 20 PD rifles that I made 2 trips a yr with 10 on each trip for 10yrs. All of the triggers made that complete10 yr cycle, some in a different rifle, but still the original trigger. NEVER and I repeat NEVER in that cycle was there ever a malfunction and NEVER was any of the triggers ever CLEANED. I did have a can of lighter fluid for that just in case moment. Just to put this story in perspective, all my shooting was done from a bench. On the ground shooting would likely had different results. I still wish JEWELL was available so I could be your JEWELL trigger dealer. LDS

 

[ricco1949]

In defense of Jewell quality, that's a matter of ones opinion. The ONLY problem I ever had w/a JEWELL was because of a trigger hanger that was out of spec. and that was many yrs before the shut down. I have also read the bad press that Jewell got when they got dusty and wouldn't work. In defense of that, I owned 20 PD rifles that I made 2 trips a yr with 10 on each trip for 10yrs. All of the triggers made that complete10 yr cycle, some in a different rifle, but still the original trigger. NEVER and I repeat NEVER in that cycle was there ever a malfunction and NEVER was any of the triggers ever CLEANED. I did have a can of lighter fluid for that just in case moment. Just to put this story in perspective, all my shooting was done from a bench. On the ground shooting would likely had different results. I still wish JEWELL was available so I could be your JEWELL trigger dealer. LDS

I'll second what Larry said.

Been PDn with Jewell's for 20+ years. Never a malfunction and never had to clean one. They just keep trippin' along.

Even had one survive a blanked primer without a hitch.

Sure gonna miss 'em for future builds.

 

[jthor]

After cleaning each part with brake cleaner it failed to drop the firing pin after 30 shots. Panda action. Any ideas? It could not be dirt.

Saw this same thing happen at a PRS match. Failed, went and cleaned it and then it failed again 2 or 3 stages later. It was the second time that trigger had a failure.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I think people need to be realistic. Your looking at a mechanism thats holding back well over 20 pounds and we want it to release at a 1 oz trigger pull. Like barrels, that have a 30" hole that holds to a tenth or two. Its pretty amazing it can be done. At any price.

 

[LarryDScott]

I'll second what Larry said.

Been PDn with Jewell's for 20+ years. Never a malfunction and never had to clean one. They just keep trippin' along.

Even had one survive a blanked primer without a hitch.

Sure gonna miss 'em for future builds.

I forgot about a ruptured primer incident. I was forming some 20Tactical brass, by holding the rifle down by my side shooting it into the ground. I was talking w/a fellow while doing this, and did not realize I had 3 cases that had bad primers. That was 3 blanks out of 50, and I have no explanation. Needless to say, the JEWELL with stood the incident when it wasnt suppose to. With one you are lucky. With 3 times it's probably a record. LDS

 

[Dave Way]

So I have 6 Bix triggers. Early on, I took one apart just because I was curious how they worked. Just something I have done since I was a little kid, and if my mom were still alive she loved to tell those stories!

I put it back together and have never taken one apart since. The quality and precision was amazing and I have to question whether some people are causing the problems when they try to inspect/clean/adjust them. There’s really not much area where anything could even get into one of these triggers. I have not pulled one apart in years now and they continue to perform flawlessly.

Yes, I carry a spare to matches but I bet it’s still in the plastic bag five years from now.

Dave.

 

[tmwinds]

Some people can break a bowling ball !

 

[JFrank]

After a short search , I found these.

Bix trigger fix

These triggers are extremely simple in design. They are also extremely reliable so long as things are how they should be. A little over a year ago I had enough issues with them that I looked into it and came up with the solution. I have been doing this on every rifle I have built for a little...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[baredog]

What the heck, I just bought a Timney Benchrest Trigger.

It’s worth a try.

love to hear your review on that timney br

 

[Trigger-Jerker]

love to hear your review on that timney br

Jackie has a post about the Timney in the Competition forum.

 

[WIB3]

I’m having issues again with my B&A competition trigger. Have to hit it twice and sometimes recock to get it to fire. Completely unacceptable for something that cost $500.00. I really wish a watch maker would start making the Jewell design again. POS

 

[WIB3]

The BR rifle is a Rolex, the trigger should be too.

 

[gkgeiger]

I’m having issues again with my B&A competition trigger. Have to hit it twice and sometimes recock to get it to fire. Completely unacceptable for something that cost $500.00. I really wish a watch maker would start making the Jewell design again. POS

Bought a used Jewell, sold the BnA. Problem solved.

 

[Ccrider]

I’m having issues again with my B&A competition trigger. Have to hit it twice and sometimes recock to get it to fire. Completely unacceptable for something that cost $500.00. I really wish a watch maker would start making the Jewell design again. POS

Send it to me and I will send you a Jewell.

 

[rodstreet]

I switched to Sidhe BR Evo from PAR Solutions

 

[Eric Bliss]

I’m having issues again with my B&A competition trigger. Have to hit it twice and sometimes recock to get it to fire. Completely unacceptable for something that cost $500.00. I really wish a watch maker would start making the Jewell design again. POS

A couple of weeks ago I encountered an issue similar to what WIB3 describes shortly after disassembling and cleaning the trigger parts. I've had a few of these triggers apart over the past few years as part of routine maintenance and never had this happen before.

The first thing that came to mind is that I used acetone instead of brake cleaner. I highly doubted that was the cause but took the trigger apart to repeat the cleaning and to make sure everything was in its place as a starting point.

As I was putting parts into a jar to wash them in brake cleaner I noticed the bearings were sticking to the other parts. Magnetized!

Unlike all the times before, I had used a magnetic parts tray to hold things during disassembly. It magnetized my trigger parts!

I put things back together, minus the cover, to observe the change in behavior and as you might imagine when the bearings are 'sticking' to each other, or the surrounding parts, that the trigger does not function reliably. Problem found!

I initially tried a few hacks for demagnetizing from the internet as a quick fix without luck. I ended up buying a $10 gadget online that is meant for the task.

After demagnetizing parts everything is working as it should.

I didn't see my scenario mentioned in any of the posts I read, and would bet I'm not the only person with one of those parts trays around, so figured it was worth sharing.

 

[Mulligan]

A couple of weeks ago I encountered an issue similar to what WIB3 describes shortly after disassembling and cleaning the trigger parts. I've had a few of these triggers apart over the past few years as part of routine maintenance and never had this happen before.

The first thing that came to mind is that I used acetone instead of brake cleaner. I highly doubted that was the cause but took the trigger apart to repeat the cleaning and to make sure everything was in its place as a starting point.

As I was putting parts into a jar to wash them in brake cleaner I noticed the bearings were sticking to the other parts. Magnetized!

Unlike all the times before, I had used a magnetic parts tray to hold things during disassembly. It magnetized my trigger parts!

I put things back together, minus the cover, to observe the change in behavior and as you might imagine when the bearings are 'sticking' to each other, or the surrounding parts, that the trigger does not function reliably. Problem found!

I initially tried a few hacks for demagnetizing from the internet as a quick fix without luck. I ended up buying a $10 gadget online that is meant for the task.

After demagnetizing parts everything is working as it should.

I didn't see my scenario mentioned in any of the posts I read, and would bet I'm not the only person with one of those parts trays around, so figured it was worth sharing.

A few weeks ago I cleaned my triggers getting ready for the season. Parts were sticking together?????
The top sear was magnetized????


I have no idea what would have caused this, the other triggers did not have this situation.
When assembled, the trigger appeared to function normally.
CW

 

[ridgeway]

Throw it on a demagnetizer. It's common for hardened tool steels to become magnetic.

Another thing to add to the fire control envelope. I had an instance where a rifle with a bix would fire and then it wouldn't. I thought for sure it was the trigger. Swapped triggers, same thing...pull trigger and nothing happened. Long story short, I traced it back to the pin on BAT roller coming piece. The pin started to walk out and the cocking piece would bind on the shroud. Figured it out when I put the bolt in and closed it. It stayed cocked! OK...tore bolt appart and saw the rub marks and the pin for roller protruding. Tapped back in and staked with piece of scrap carbide since the cocking piece is harder than a punch. Other actions may have a cross pin to attach cocking piece...MAKE SURE ITS NOT DRAGGING.

Moral of story, if you suspect a trigger...make sure you check everything else as well. Have a firm understanding of how it all works. If not, take it to someone that fully understands the fire control system. I bet 95% of custom LR rifles on the line could improve on firecontrol. Some of the simplest checks can be to make sure you have clearance around your bolt/stock when bolt is closed. I've seen some well know builders miss this. Critical.