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Best way to remove primer crimp??

I’m loading some Starline right now and sure don’t see any negatives about it.
How many loadings are you getting on your 223 cases ?
I got 100 Starline cases from a buddy that ordered several K by mistake. They were head stamped 5.56, they have now been loaded 6 times. I ordered 1k of the 223, I doubt there is any difference. Some of the 223 are now on #3.
Wish I would have bought more LC virgin when I had the chance.
 
"Crocogator" primer pocket tool. You only need to cut the crimp one time. And every time you pick up a piece of brass is another chance to inspect it before it gets loaded.1690633833593.png
 
I use a Hornady cutter similar to the RCBS cutter (my RCBS was worn out) and chuck it into my drill. I'll clamp my drill into my bench vice and can stand there and do hundreds pretty quickly. I found the Hornady PP cutter to be shaped more to my liking than the RCBS but both work well in my experience.

I also have the RCBS swager somewhere in my loading room and have no plan to ever find it. Hopefully someday after I'm gone, my son finds it and wonders WTH it is and throws it away.
 
I've seen others complain about the same RCBS issue as I have: the swaging nipple sticks in the primer pocket and requires SO much force to remove it that I have to SLAM the ram downward in order to break the nipple free. Slam so hard it rocks my bench violently and I wonder how much wear and stress I'm putting on the Rockchucker linkage/arms. But it works fine for other people...
Did you try lubing the primer pockets? That worked for me on some hard to swage 223 brass.
 
I’m loading some Starline right now and sure don’t see any negatives about it.
How many loadings are you getting on your 223 cases ?
I'm just using some Starline for the first time, I bought the nickel plated 300 blackout cases to try. I also bought some Gorilla 8.6 blackout brass, they use Starline. The Gorilla is brass without nickel. I can tell the Starline is thicker than Hornady. When converting Hornady you need to turn the necks so they fit properly. This reduces the life also, some people say only 4 reloads on those Hornady cases.

I have heard as a rule of thumb, that 8 reloads on brass, 10-12 on the nickel plated. I can't tell you for certain yet, but I don't see why not to believe it.

I guess I'm not surprised that others found out what I did, get rid of crimped brass, buy some match quality brass, and be done with it. You, bozo, McGraw...at the end of the day it doesn't cost very much to buy non-crimped brass.

As I said, when I was pelting out 600 rounds of 223 in an afternoon it made sense to buy used brass. However, even for 308, I bought a bunch of once fired LC 308 Match brass and it's quality stuff compared to the military crimped garbage. Military doesn't reload, they only need one fire.
 
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Yes, I tried several high quality lubes on the RCBS including Imperial and moly to little effect. My Mighty Armory swage die/nipple NEVER sticks and works perfectly.
I have a MA swage die as well, and it works mo better than the RCBS. Well worth the $$ if you're gonna do a lot of crimps.
 
"Crocogator" primer pocket tool. You only need to cut the crimp one time. And every time you pick up a piece of brass is another chance to inspect it before it gets loaded.

The crocogater does not touch the crimp! It will only breakup the crude in the bottom of the flash hole! Clean it hard enough and it may deepen the pocket!

Frank
 
I have been playing with a Lee APP with the swager. Initial results are excellent but I have only tried swaging a variant of crimped Winchester brass.

Added photo. Top is with the old primer in place. Bottom photo is after crimp removed, with new primer.

20220317_190900_resize_83.jpg
 
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Another Hornady cutter/Drill user here. I tried the Superswage from Dillon and sold it.

The cutter fit my personality better.
 
I always swage them with my dillon, Sure it takes a while but you're not removing any material and the pockets last much longer than reaming. I also use a primer go/ no go gauge.
 
I always swage them with my dillon, Sure it takes a while but you're not removing any material and the pockets last much longer than reaming. I also use a primer go/ no go gauge.

The swagged primer pockets lasts much longer than reamed pockets? Thats a new one.. Ive tested this extensively many years ago with LC brass, both swagged and reamed. I found absolutely ZERO difference in brass life or accuracy.. The reamer doesnt go down in and cut the pocket.. It simply cuts off the little piece of crimp at the top of the pocket. Id like to hear how this is even possible? As removing the tiny crimp has nothing to do with the pocket loosening up... Ive also been using a primer pocket go and no go from Ballistic Tools forever...
 
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I prefer to ream them out. If you are swagging different head stamps, The will vary in thickness. If you wan to swag properly, you will have to sort by headstamp and then have to adjust the swag for each as well. Its a PITA.

If you ream them, head stamp doesn't matter. Several manufactureres like RCBS, etc., make them for very cheap.
Same for me ^^^^
 
another + for the reamer. I picked up a good batch of LC and had zero issue with the reamer. Chuck it in the drill press and I can make quick work of it.
 
The swagged primer pockets lasts much longer than reamed pockets? Thats a new one.. Ive tested this extensively many years ago with LC brass, both swagged and reamed. I found absolutely ZERO difference in brass life or accuracy.. The reamer doesnt go down in and cut the pocket.. It simply cuts off the little piece of crimp at the top of the pocket. Id like to hear how this is even possible? As removing the tiny crimp has nothing to do with the pocket loosening up... Ive also been using a primer pocket go and no go from Ballistic Tools forever...
I never said anything about accuracy being better or worse, Also I have noticed a big difference which is the reason I swage instead of reaming. A large number of people who ream removed way too much material!
 
I never said anything about accuracy being better or worse, Also I have noticed a big difference which is the reason I swage instead of reaming. A large number of people who ream removed way too much material!

You said primer pockets don't last as long...which is what I said I've never experienced. My reamer doesn't even touch the primer pocket so how does that affect primer pocket life??
 
A large number of people who ream removed way too much material!

With the Hornady cutter, it bottoms out in the pocket. It's self-limiting. Other methods might allow for over-cutting, but the Hornady is solid.

I ruined way more brass by swaging. I probably could have mastered it by feel, but didn't have the patience.
 

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