Best way to level the riflescope??

[TOROBAYO]

HI, Im trying to level my scope on farrel base and rings on a rem 700vls.
I been seen a lot of gadget to do this task, bubble levels, geometrics levels etc etc.

Does exist a traditional method to do this task or a fail safe product???

 

[rem_kujawa]

I have a great tool that I use if you want give me a call tonight and I can tell you who makes it.

763 482 9097

Jon

 

[TOROBAYO]

I live in Chile.... maybe a email??

 

[tenring]

Check Brownells. They sell an aluminum device with bubble level that rests against the barrel, with a height adjustable section that positions against the objective lens. Hang a weight on a cord at 50 yards, and its simple and accurate.

 

[ronemus]

I bought a pair of small, inexpensive bubble levels,3/16" x 3/4") from Sinclair that make the job easy. I clamp the rifle so it's approximately level front to back, and put one of the levels on a flat spot on the receiver,tang, sight base, etc.) and level it side to side,it works equally well whether the rifle is vertical or rotated 90 degrees, so choose the most convenient). I put the other on a scope cap and level the scope. It takes less than 5 minutes to finish the job.

 

[rem_kujawa]

Tenring,
thats the tool I use it works great I just cant think of the name.

Jon

 

[Spotcheck_Billy]

Tenring,
thats the tool I use it works great I just cant think of the name.

Jon

EXD Engineering "Verticle Reticule" instrument.
Brownells #289-100-000

It works great for leveling your rifle with the scope mounted. The string on a weight can be observed through a slot milled into the tool, and that makes setup a breeze.

One word of caution, however. If you use the weight on a sting method to level your reticle make sure that your reticle isn't canted. A canted reticle will play hell with your accuracy if you dial your elevation, especially at long range, because it will cause the windage to change as you adjust the elevation knob. Be sure to check this with a bubble level used on the scope,placed on the top of an M1 or NXS elevation turret for example) or use the feeler gauge method under the scope.

 

[rem_kujawa]

Good point spotcheck_billy.

Jon

 

[mikecr]

Spirit level an action/base flat, then move level to top of elevation turret and turn scope till it's level and tighten it's rings.
When I get to the range I hang my stapler by a rope after posting targets.
Back to the bench and with the spirit level on the elevation turret I verify my vertical crosshair is right with the rope.

I haven't run across a canted reticle yet with Leupold or NF scopes. But if you have one alter the plan like this;
At the range, with the crosshair near the rope, spirit level the action. Now keeping it level, tweak your rest windage until your crosshair is on the rope. Turn the scope until it's riding the rope perfectly then tighten the rings.
Of course re-verify it with the level on your action flat and your crosshair perfectly right with the rope.

These levels are a couple bucks. You could use a few of them around the bench like I do alot.

 

[Spotcheck_Billy]

Spirit level an action/base flat, then move level to top of elevation turret and turn scope till it's level and tighten it's rings.
When I get to the range I hang my stapler by a rope after posting targets.
Back to the bench and with the spirit level on the elevation turret I verify my vertical crosshair is right with the rope.

I haven't run across a canted reticle yet with Leupold or NF scopes. But if you have one alter the plan like this;
At the range, with the crosshair near the rope, spirit level the action. Now keeping it level, tweak your rest windage until your crosshair is on the rope. Turn the scope until it's riding the rope perfectly then tighten the rings.
Of course re-verify it with the level on your action flat and your crosshair perfectly right with the rope.

These levels are a couple bucks. You could use a few of them around the bench like I do alot.

Never seen a canted reticle on an NF, have seen a few high end Leupolds canted and heard about a lot more from some experienced tactical shooters at the range and over on another forum. The cant is usually about two degrees and possibly not noticed by some owners, but it'll make a heck of a difference out at LR, especially at 1000 yards.

Using the windage in your rest,if so equipped) to compensate for a canted reticle is a good expedient, but only a bandaid. Why not just verify the condition by cross-checking with a string level against a bubble level and if the problem exists send the scope back to the manufacturer and have him make it right? That way you'll know that the reticle is always correct and will be able to shoot off a rest, a bag, or a bipod without any worries.

 

[wi50]

I use feeler gauges under the flat part of the scope and the base. Simple, and true....try getting 2 leavels to read the same

 

[Spotcheck_Billy]

I use feeler gauges under the flat part of the scope and the base. Simple, and true....try getting 2 leavels to read the same

Ever tried using the EXD Engineering level instrument mentioned above? Using it to level the rifle along with another bubble level on the scope might surprise you, although I agree that the feeler gauge method works just fine!

 

[tripcrow]

TURBOBAYO, put rifle with loose scope in a rest on a level table and have it pointing towards a plumb object,corner of a square out building),siding even works if you know its level). Take a square and line up the screw holes on the rifle’s butt plate or recoil pad so they’re straight up and down. Now turn scope so the reticle lines up square with the plumb object your looking at. Tighten the rings and recheck.

 

[mikecr]

Thinking about it a little more, I wonder if it might be a mistake for me to level the crosshair at all,in the event that it wasn't).
I dial my elevation so the only thing that matters is this vertical TRAVEL. I use a flip-up 'ScopeLevel' in the field which matches a spirit level resting on the turret when I set it up.
So it Seems like leveling the turret to the action covers that.


But if you holdover from the reticle, it would have to be level as well. That would mean sending it back for rebuild..

 

[TOROBAYO]

But this method, can assure that stock is perfectly aligned with the action?? more over my rifle has a glass and pillar bedding .

I was all noon taking the reticle leveled with a rope and plumb. Then I take a common bubble level and with the reticle leveled, I recalibrate the bubble level, all of 4 bubble level give a different measure!!!).I think every bubble level must be recalibrated with plumb method or another).

The lack of a perfect bubble with this method can mask a canted level I think.

Sorry for my English

Bye

TURBOBAYO, put rifle with loose scope in a rest on a level table and have it pointing towards a plumb object,corner of a square out building),siding even works if you know its level). Take a square and line up the screw holes on the rifle’s butt plate or recoil pad so they’re straight up and down. Now turn scope so the reticle lines up square with the plumb object your looking at. Tighten the rings and recheck.

 

[tripcrow]

Depends on how perfect you want it. That’s all I use. Just a level table to put a gun rest on, a straight 90 or 180 degree object to look at, & a square. You could even use a level instead of a square to get the recoil pad holes straight up and down. I’d think a mass machine produced VLS stock should have the action screw holes in line with the recoil pad to a very high degree. If the action bolts were centered in the pillars when it was bedded and the bolt holes are centered on the action it all should still be pretty darn well aligned doing it that way.

Yeah, bubbles do stick and can drive you crazy.

Understand, there is some point where scope alignment’s contribution to rifle accuracy is not measurable in any real practical sense. If it’s at ½ a degree or .0001 of a degree at 1000 yards I don’t know. But it’s your gun and your time. And yes you can only make it shoot the same or better by aligning it as perfect as possible. Not worse.

 

[Spotcheck_Billy]

But if you holdover from the reticle, it would have to be level as well. That would mean sending it back for rebuild..

I think that if you have a scope with a canted reticle and you level the verticle crosshair to the rifle using the plumb bob method you'd be ok as long as you're holding over from the reticle and not dialing for elevation. As long as the verticle crosshair is level it won't effect the windage on a holdover shot. So you won't have to send the scope back.....

Or did I misunderstand your post?

 

[mikecr]

You're right.

- If holding over only, then the crosshair should be set true vertical.
- If dialing then the turrets should be set true vertical.
- To get both with a canted crosshair, would mean rebuild.

That's what I mean't