Patch-Out is great. Haven't tried Carb-Out yet. Also use Montana Extreme Copper Cream to good effect.
Best Bore Cleaning Chemicals - need recommendations
- Thread starter 1972
- Start date
Here is a link to that KG-12
This stuff certainly sounds impressive! If they are being honest with the amount of copper it dissolved as compared to the others.
http://www.laniganperformance.com/kg12testresults.html
I also like the idea that there is no ammonia in it. The only thing that kind of worries me is what IS in it that can dissolve copper that quickly – and what might it do to a rifle barrel.
This stuff certainly sounds impressive! If they are being honest with the amount of copper it dissolved as compared to the others.
http://www.laniganperformance.com/kg12testresults.html
I also like the idea that there is no ammonia in it. The only thing that kind of worries me is what IS in it that can dissolve copper that quickly – and what might it do to a rifle barrel.
I like KG-1 and KG-12, the carbon and copper cutters. I also like Patch Out.
Patch Out cuts carbon better than KG-1 but KG-12 cuts copper faster than Patch Out and will pull copper from the bore when Patch Out is telling you it's clean.
I haven't used the Patch Out accelerator, nor have I let Patch Out work overnight.
Patch Out cuts carbon better than KG-1 but KG-12 cuts copper faster than Patch Out and will pull copper from the bore when Patch Out is telling you it's clean.
I haven't used the Patch Out accelerator, nor have I let Patch Out work overnight.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
I just read this whole thread,I don't know why I knew what the outcome would be,one question-56 different answers. Its funny if you were to ask what is the best barrel for say a 6br, there would be a few different answers but the majority would be for one or two barrel makers. stocks,the same triggers,the same ect.ect.ect. don't believe me? read your precision shooting magizine,go to the back of it and read the stats of the different shoots and read what there using for equipment the majority of the people are using the same equipment! 10 matches 100 people in each match,ask each of them how they clean there barrels and you would get 1000 different answeres-DON'T FIGURE. I guess the best answer would be,shoot untill your groups open up take of the # of rounds and in the future stop just prior to that and clean your rifle with whatever works for you! If you have never cleaned your rifle before and don't know what to use?Lean over to the shooter to the right of you and ask him what he uses. IT OBVIOUSLY WILL WORK!
Wayne.
Wayne.
Cleaning is always a can of worms. My interpretation when there are a lot of differing opinions on how to do it, but the outcome is good, then the method is probably not that critical.
For what it is worth here is a method I find works for me. And, I'll warn you I hate cleaning.
I wrap a nylon brush with a patch which is soaked in Barnes CR-10 (easy for me to get, and if anyone should know about the need to remove copper it should be Barnes), and swab it up and down the bore about 10 times, and let it sit for 15 minutes. If there is copper the patch will come out blue. Repeat until you are not so sure it is blue or not. Then use a jag with a clean patch and more CR-10. If this is not blue you may be done.
Next I use the nylon brush again with a patch soaked in automotive throttle body cleaner. Another option is the General Motors Top Engine Cleaner they sell to remove carbon. The idea is to check and see if there is carbon to be removed. The carbon and copper can be in layers, so once you remove the carbon (patch not black), then you need to check for copper using the CR-10 again. If you clean regularly with CR-10 you may not need the carbon remover step.
I am not afraid of ammonia, and CR-10 has it. I think that is the best way to remove copper, and even more important detect if there is any copper (patch turns blue). From experience in the water treatment business, I know ammonia is used to protect steel, but will attack copper. In a rifle barrel it is your friend. The high pH protects the steel, unless you let the stuff sit until the ammonia all evaporates leaving water. Then you can get some corrosion. Just don't let it sit for a long time -- like overnight. CR-10 has glycol to prevent corrosion from easily happening.
I don't use brass brushes, but not because I think they will damage the barrel. But they have copper in them so they will turn the patch blue due to the copper in the brush.
The best objective testing of cleaning materials I've seen is at the link below. There are other products that work well too, but I use what I can easily get, and still have it work. It actually would not be hard to make your own cleaner either if you have access to strong ammonia.
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
For what it is worth here is a method I find works for me. And, I'll warn you I hate cleaning.
I wrap a nylon brush with a patch which is soaked in Barnes CR-10 (easy for me to get, and if anyone should know about the need to remove copper it should be Barnes), and swab it up and down the bore about 10 times, and let it sit for 15 minutes. If there is copper the patch will come out blue. Repeat until you are not so sure it is blue or not. Then use a jag with a clean patch and more CR-10. If this is not blue you may be done.
Next I use the nylon brush again with a patch soaked in automotive throttle body cleaner. Another option is the General Motors Top Engine Cleaner they sell to remove carbon. The idea is to check and see if there is carbon to be removed. The carbon and copper can be in layers, so once you remove the carbon (patch not black), then you need to check for copper using the CR-10 again. If you clean regularly with CR-10 you may not need the carbon remover step.
I am not afraid of ammonia, and CR-10 has it. I think that is the best way to remove copper, and even more important detect if there is any copper (patch turns blue). From experience in the water treatment business, I know ammonia is used to protect steel, but will attack copper. In a rifle barrel it is your friend. The high pH protects the steel, unless you let the stuff sit until the ammonia all evaporates leaving water. Then you can get some corrosion. Just don't let it sit for a long time -- like overnight. CR-10 has glycol to prevent corrosion from easily happening.
I don't use brass brushes, but not because I think they will damage the barrel. But they have copper in them so they will turn the patch blue due to the copper in the brush.
The best objective testing of cleaning materials I've seen is at the link below. There are other products that work well too, but I use what I can easily get, and still have it work. It actually would not be hard to make your own cleaner either if you have access to strong ammonia.
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
I have tried almost everything in the last 15 years, and settled on Bore Tech's products. I have never seen anything come close to getting a barrel clean. The Eliminator is my go to at the range, with the Copper and Carbon remover back in the shop. I also use Montana Extreme Copper Killer if necessary on friends rifles and as a very potent backup.
I had no luck with Wipe Out and their products even following directions to a T. Owning an auto repair garage, I do have some GM Top Engine Cleaner in stock, but have never needed to use it on my rifles.
There is an excellent article archived on site about cleaning your barrel's. I believe its called 'Bore brushing, how much is too much?" But like has already been said in this thread, its what works for you and your particular rifle. And everybody does it differently.
I had no luck with Wipe Out and their products even following directions to a T. Owning an auto repair garage, I do have some GM Top Engine Cleaner in stock, but have never needed to use it on my rifles.
There is an excellent article archived on site about cleaning your barrel's. I believe its called 'Bore brushing, how much is too much?" But like has already been said in this thread, its what works for you and your particular rifle. And everybody does it differently.
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