Behold! My 3rd Prototype Annealer

[Killick]

Housing, hopper, ramp and case advancer made from 1/2” & 3/16” nylon sheet and 2-1/4” nylon rod. 1- high torque motor turns the drum and is linked to the case advancer via GT2 printer pulleys and belt.

 

[Fuj]

I'm liking that large wheel drum system. Any build up
of heat on that wheel over time ?? Maybe perforate the
drum for cooling. Just looks like a better way over the
Anealeez wheel system....Have you tried the short BR type
cases yet ??

 

[Downeast]

The damn thing is hypnotic! I can't stop watching it!

Great job!

 

[Timberyote]

Great job.

Could you post a materials list and construction details? If not, no harm, no foul.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Killick]

I'm liking that large wheel drum system. Any build up
of heat on that wheel over time ?? Maybe perforate the
drum for cooling. Just looks like a better way over the
Anealeez wheel system....Have you tried the short BR type
cases yet ??

I’ve successfully run .223, 6BR, 6XC, .308, .284 Win, .30-06. The .223 needs an insert which is shown in the bot.right corner of the thumbnail. It’s made of light gauge sheet mtl.
No heat build up on anything other than the stainless case stabilizer. I may post the first and second prototypes.

 

[Killick]

Great job.

Could you post a materials list and construction details? If not, no harm, no foul.

Thanks for sharing.

I’m using the motor and belt/pulley design from the 1st prototype. If I post that you will see the inner workings.

 

[Webster]

Housing, hopper, ramp and case advancer made from 1/2” & 3/16” nylon sheet and 2-1/4” nylon rod. 1- high torque motor turns the drum and is linked to the case advancer via GT2 printer pulleys and belt.

Looks very well done. Looks like your heating the necks 1-2 sec more than I do by hand held torch. I used to do 9 sec now 5-6. I never got necks and shoulders as dark as yours. I assume it's because of chemical residue? I would clean a few with 0000 steel wool. wipe off with distilled water or alcohol and see if they are lighter colored. Probably case lube residue? Looks great no complicated electronics.

 

[rijndael]

I never got necks and shoulders as dark as yours. I assume it's because of chemical residue?

IME, some brass just turns darker once it's removed from the flame. I'm not sure if it's oxidation or impurities in the propane ... I'm using some pretty old bottles. Winchester does it for me, frequently. It all looks the same once it's tumbled.

 

[Migolito]

IMO, add a PID and a LED readout so that a reference heat can be used once an appropriate heat is found. Also, add a LED readout for speed/time, again so a reference speed/rpm can be used.. Excellent mechanicals BTW.

 

[Killick]

Looks very well done. Looks like your heating the necks 1-2 sec more than I do by hand held torch. I used to do 9 sec now 5-6. I never got necks and shoulders as dark as yours. I assume it's because of chemical residue? I would clean a few with 0000 steel wool. wipe off with distilled water or alcohol and see if they are lighter colored. Probably case lube residue? Looks great no complicated electronics.

Those are junk cases, not cleaned. I tumble before burning and then size.

 

[Killick]

IMO, add a PID and a LED readout so that a reference heat can be used once an appropriate heat is found. Also, add a LED readout for speed/time, again so a reference speed/rpm can be used.. Excellent mechanicals BTW.

I time it with my phone on a dry run and note the “Speed Control” setting shown in the vid. That’s really all you need unless you want a precise reading and to get that you need an AMP or equivelant.

 

[kiwijohn]

Nice work, no doubt about it the gas method is simpler to add automation for most of us.

 

[Killick]

Nice work, no doubt about it the gas method is simpler to add automation for most of us.

There are affordable induction annealers available on Amazon but the automation has not caught up to the flame throwers...at a comparable price point.