wildcat3d
Silver $$ Contributor
Come tell my restaurant floors that, and the people that strip off the old ??? wax
Bedding release agent
- Thread starter holstil
- Start date
linebaugh
Silver $$ Contributor
I wonder how many guns that can of marine tex will do? Wow!
I like the cutting board idea, will try that next time. Good job on mixing btw.
I also like that he pointed out that you need to work it into the stock and not just slather it in place and rely on the action to push it in place. Very good point to remember for adhesion.
Everyone is different I guess but I would personally never use electrical tape on a lug and I also would not only do the outside of the lug but also do the front or outbound side. Not necessary to do the front but I like like that bit of clearance for assembly/removal for future work especially on guns I intend to rebarrel in the future.
Electrical tape streatches and compresses and it looked like he did not have good coverage on the edges which means there is contact of the lug to the bottom of the bedding/stock. I use aluminum ducting tape with one layer on the front and two layers on the outside of the lug.
He is not afraid to make a mess but I can't handle the anxiety of having bedding everywhere. I tape the stock and do not purpously go full on excess on the bedding compound as my anxiety will not allow me to purposely make such a big mess.
As much as I like his cutting board idea I feel compelled to offer what I think is a fairly good clean up method for excess bedding around the action. I have been using McDonald straws or oversized plastic straws which you can source at wallyworld/dollar general/dollar tree/amazon. Take the straws and cut a 45ish degree angle on the end leaving a sharp point. You can run that point along the joint edge of the action and barrel and it will form to the barrel and stock and "scoop" the bedding out. The bigger straws have a higher resevoir for bedding to collect in and are slightly more rigid. Simply re-cut the 45 degree angle with a scissor over a trash can to refresh and get rid of the collected bedding. One or 2 straws will get the job done and take care of the majority of your clean up work.
Thanks for posting and the new ideas.
I like the cutting board idea, will try that next time. Good job on mixing btw.
I also like that he pointed out that you need to work it into the stock and not just slather it in place and rely on the action to push it in place. Very good point to remember for adhesion.
Everyone is different I guess but I would personally never use electrical tape on a lug and I also would not only do the outside of the lug but also do the front or outbound side. Not necessary to do the front but I like like that bit of clearance for assembly/removal for future work especially on guns I intend to rebarrel in the future.
Electrical tape streatches and compresses and it looked like he did not have good coverage on the edges which means there is contact of the lug to the bottom of the bedding/stock. I use aluminum ducting tape with one layer on the front and two layers on the outside of the lug.
He is not afraid to make a mess but I can't handle the anxiety of having bedding everywhere. I tape the stock and do not purpously go full on excess on the bedding compound as my anxiety will not allow me to purposely make such a big mess.
As much as I like his cutting board idea I feel compelled to offer what I think is a fairly good clean up method for excess bedding around the action. I have been using McDonald straws or oversized plastic straws which you can source at wallyworld/dollar general/dollar tree/amazon. Take the straws and cut a 45ish degree angle on the end leaving a sharp point. You can run that point along the joint edge of the action and barrel and it will form to the barrel and stock and "scoop" the bedding out. The bigger straws have a higher resevoir for bedding to collect in and are slightly more rigid. Simply re-cut the 45 degree angle with a scissor over a trash can to refresh and get rid of the collected bedding. One or 2 straws will get the job done and take care of the majority of your clean up work.
Thanks for posting and the new ideas.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
You and I do a lot of the same things. Aluminum backed tape, straws, etc.
Not many based on how much he used
-The video skips the cleanup part of the job.
I've started taping the sides of the action to prevent "the line" you get from the bedding, or getting any in the ejection port. Just makes things easier.
Not many based on how much he used
-The video skips the cleanup part of the job. I've started taping the sides of the action to prevent "the line" you get from the bedding, or getting any in the ejection port. Just makes things easier.
coldboreshot
Silver $$ Contributor
100% spot-on. I use Collonite wax on my truck and its a short duration dry. If left too long, I have to reapply to soften first application.
Liven The Dream
Gold $$ Contributor
Still have some in my Qt. Can from Brownell's sold years ago. Always works.
The EPA rules must have stopped then from selling it.......
Lot of good ideas posted !!!!!!
The EPA rules must have stopped then from selling it.......
Lot of good ideas posted !!!!!!
Fast14riot
Gold $$ Contributor
That video sure is something. Not saying my way is perfect, but I would never purposefully mix up twice the necessary amount of bedding or casually add more hardener (not catalyst as he calls it) by eye. It will harden, but his methods can create the very issues he says he wants to avoid. Epoxy is rather particular about its mix ratios. At the minimum, use a balance to try and get somewhat close to appropriate ratio by weight.
But, his technique of application is useful. When I have customers on the phone asking about my epoxies and uses, I will always recommend them doing a "dry run" of movements of parts and materials before mixing any resins. Nothing worse than knocking over your drink you set down when you pick up your barreled action and have epoxy mixed.
Cotton swaps dipped in wd40 make quick work of squeeze out. Tape up where you dont want it. If you doubt your release agent, use more.
But, his technique of application is useful. When I have customers on the phone asking about my epoxies and uses, I will always recommend them doing a "dry run" of movements of parts and materials before mixing any resins. Nothing worse than knocking over your drink you set down when you pick up your barreled action and have epoxy mixed.
Cotton swaps dipped in wd40 make quick work of squeeze out. Tape up where you dont want it. If you doubt your release agent, use more.
I too prefer to mix by weight with Marine Tex, as I've found it critical to get the ratio right. It's 5:1 by volume and 6.3:1 by weight. JB is pretty forgiving compared to MT. 50/50 by eye is close enough with JB but I don't typically use it to bed with. I do use it for final glue on a glue in.
I've used jb weld on 3 rifles now. I use Mothers Gold carnuba wax and never had one not release.
holstil
Silver $$ Contributor
I noticed the learning curve is real sharp on your first bedding job.You quickly realize what you do and don’t want to happen, motivation to learn better techniques/procedures.
Everyone has their own way. I thought I’d try jb. I read that it doesn’t shrink contrary to a previous post. I’ll do some more reading.
I don’t like pillars. I have a couple stocks that have them in that I’ll re-bed once removed. Maybe I’ll try jb and marine Tex.
I like Devcon, just looking for something that works as well or better and cheaper.
Everyone has their own way. I thought I’d try jb. I read that it doesn’t shrink contrary to a previous post. I’ll do some more reading.
I don’t like pillars. I have a couple stocks that have them in that I’ll re-bed once removed. Maybe I’ll try jb and marine Tex.
I like Devcon, just looking for something that works as well or better and cheaper.
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