Bedding an Action Without the Barrel? Why Not?
- Thread starter tunacan
- Start date
The smith who bedded my .22 LR benchrest rifle bedded the action and then setup the barrel. I thought, at the time, that it was wrong but it worked quite well. With no barrel hanging off of the action, there is no stress on it while the bedding is setting up. The only issue is keeping the stock aligned with the action so that the barrel will free float in the barrel channel after it is screwed to the action.
However, I still bed my actions with the barrel mounted. I don't think there is a problem bedding the action without the barrel but old habits are hard to break.
Cort
However, I still bed my actions with the barrel mounted. I don't think there is a problem bedding the action without the barrel but old habits are hard to break.
Cort
As far as I know, all BR smiths bed with the barrel since it "pre-loads" the action....that is, all actions will bend due to the weight of the barrel, and you want the bedding surface as close to 100 % contact as possible.
This is also why it is not advisable to apply torque to the action screws while bedding.
This is also why it is not advisable to apply torque to the action screws while bedding.
I bed with a barrel on, with paper shims under the barrel at the end of the stock, so #1 the action/barrel is aligned down the stock and barrel channel and #2 the shims support the barrel so the whole assembly is stress free and the action is set in vertical alignment.
It only takes a couple thousands off at the end of the action to make the barrel a bit off center of stock at the end.
It only takes a couple thousands off at the end of the action to make the barrel a bit off center of stock at the end.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
If the action is bedded "without" the barrel mounted, how will the barrel fit in the forearm when it's mounted? 1/32" nd. off at the action can mean a "bunch" when you measure 14" out from the action face.
Action and barrel alignment is critical when bedded. Bed them as a unit. Proper clearence and barrel alignment in the forearm when the bedding is set.
Action and barrel alignment is critical when bedded. Bed them as a unit. Proper clearence and barrel alignment in the forearm when the bedding is set.
never heard of doing it that way
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
And with the barrel still attatched to the action, it'll act as a handle when removing the unit from the bedding. Kinda tough without something to have for leverage? 
Back in the day when bedding jobs for most rifles were done in a single step, and the gap between the stock was held close, keeping the barrel on the action when bedding was a good way to make sure that the barreled action was aligned with the stock, for that matter, it still is. On the other hand, if pillars are used, and they are glued in as a separate step, prior to the final bedding job, if their fit with the action and the action screws is sufficient to maintain alignment, the barrel could be removed for final bedding, although this would be problematic for actions that have a Remington or Savage style lug. The other obvious reason for leaving the barrel in place is the amount of effort that it can take to remove a factory barrel, and the risk to metal finishes involved.
YesPreacher said:
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Done in two steps.
1- Pillars attatched to the action, barrel shimmed for center and clearence in the forearm and pillar area bedded.
2- After the bedding has set up, go back and do the final action bedding.
Easier than trying to do it all at one time.
1- Pillars attatched to the action, barrel shimmed for center and clearence in the forearm and pillar area bedded.
2- After the bedding has set up, go back and do the final action bedding.
Easier than trying to do it all at one time.
normmatzen
Banned
Wayneshaw has it right!
Bedding without the barrel is certainly possible, but with barrel it is much easier to insure the barrel lies straight in the forend.
Don't ask me how I know!
Bedding without the barrel is certainly possible, but with barrel it is much easier to insure the barrel lies straight in the forend.
Don't ask me how I know!
johara1 said:
Jim, can you clarify the 4 points. I want to fully understand what you're doing there, and had a long day at work. I'm not sure what you're sayin there.
After i epoxy in the the pillars i let the Devcon run between action and stock and after it dries i will remove all the excess except a point on either side of the pillar then i use a counter bore and lower the pillars so they don't touch the action. With the guide screws in place the action has to go to the same place, now i will bed it with out the barrel. The height and of the action and the barrel will be centered. i don't want any stress induced by barrel weight or a wad of tape sitting on the fore arm. After doing it this way i tried different toque on the screws and it did change anything, 30-65 inch pounds made no change in group size or placement……. jim
I like that, Jim. Thanks for sharing. I have a couple projects coming up where I'll give this technique a try.
One other question, if there's a barrel lug, do you bed under it?
One other question, if there's a barrel lug, do you bed under it?
Guess I'm bass ackwards...
First thing I do is level the top of the stock in a mill vice and then align the action holes so their inline with each other. Then I check the barrel channel at the end of the forearm to check its alignment to the action screws and adjust as needed. I circle mill the pillar holes and also counterbore those holes holding the depth of both. I make my pillars with a head on them that's held close to the counterbores in the stock, the distance from the bottom of the action to the bottom of the head of the pillars are held to a close tolerance. This all holds the action parallel to the stock and centered to the barrel channel when the pillars are glued in and the action is bedded (one step). My recoil lug is pinned, I use a stub that is screwed into the action and has the barrel diameter + .060" and is 1 1/2" long when I bed the action. That gives a nice clean area in front of the lug with clearance on the barrel cylinder area.
Anyone who uses a barrel to pry an action out of a bedding job should be shot, revived and shot again ( with a paint ball gun of course :grin: ). Research the tool that the AMU uses to remove an action out of a stock after the initial bedding job. It lifts the action straight up out of the stock without excessive pressure...
First thing I do is level the top of the stock in a mill vice and then align the action holes so their inline with each other. Then I check the barrel channel at the end of the forearm to check its alignment to the action screws and adjust as needed. I circle mill the pillar holes and also counterbore those holes holding the depth of both. I make my pillars with a head on them that's held close to the counterbores in the stock, the distance from the bottom of the action to the bottom of the head of the pillars are held to a close tolerance. This all holds the action parallel to the stock and centered to the barrel channel when the pillars are glued in and the action is bedded (one step). My recoil lug is pinned, I use a stub that is screwed into the action and has the barrel diameter + .060" and is 1 1/2" long when I bed the action. That gives a nice clean area in front of the lug with clearance on the barrel cylinder area.
Anyone who uses a barrel to pry an action out of a bedding job should be shot, revived and shot again ( with a paint ball gun of course :grin: ). Research the tool that the AMU uses to remove an action out of a stock after the initial bedding job. It lifts the action straight up out of the stock without excessive pressure...
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