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Beam scale

I just bought a clean used m5 for a friend off ebay a week ago. 80 bucks delivered in 4 days. I adjusted all the hangars, cleaned it, straightened the .1gr poise, pencil lubed the knife edges ( even and clean), glued on a needle and adjusted the pan shot for 30g check weights with a cut down 35mm plastic canister as the replacement pan. (easier for throwing).
Just with above process it repeats the to the 10th of a 10th and reacts to a single grain of varget. The M5 typically dosent need much but a few tweaks which anyone can do. I always 'zero' my scale with the closest check weight mix i have to the powder weight I will be weighing. Pretty damm simple and fool proof.

 
I just bought a clean used m5 for a friend off ebay a week ago. 80 bucks delivered in 4 days. I adjusted all the hangars, cleaned it, straightened the .1gr poise, pencil lubed the knife edges ( even and clean), glued on a needle and adjusted the pan shot for 30g check weights with a cut down 35mm plastic canister as the replacement pan. (easier for throwing).
Just with above process it repeats the to the 10th of a 10th and reacts to a single grain of varget. The M5 typically dosent need much but a few tweaks which anyone can do. I always 'zero' my scale with the closest check weight mix i have to the powder weight I will be weighing. Pretty damm simple and fool proof.

You do too much sir! I simply rattle my box of chicken bones over the scales and all problems instantly solved!
 
You do too much sir! I simply rattle my box of chicken bones over the scales and all problems instantly solved!

There are only a dozen things things you can do to a simple m5 type scale to tweak it to the max. But they were excellent scales out of the box so usually you only have to do less than half of them to get a consistent weigh. All you need to achieve is consistent repeatable reliable weighs and some chicken bone check weights to assure you of this.
 
My bench has a very smooth top. I traced the outline of the scale base to make sure it was centered before I set the balance. But somewhere along the session I would bump it out.

Then I got some of the rubber drawer liner from my wife on top the bench under the scale. Now it doesn't move.
 
I just bought a clean used m5 for a friend off ebay a week ago. 80 bucks delivered in 4 days. I adjusted all the hangars, cleaned it, straightened the .1gr poise, pencil lubed the knife edges ( even and clean), glued on a needle and adjusted the pan shot for 30g check weights with a cut down 35mm plastic canister as the replacement pan. (easier for throwing).
Just with above process it repeats the to the 10th of a 10th and reacts to a single grain of varget. The M5 typically dosent need much but a few tweaks which anyone can do. I always 'zero' my scale with the closest check weight mix i have to the powder weight I will be weighing. Pretty damm simple and fool proof.

They will call You " Scott Jr.".
Well done !!! I have been playing the same game????
 
My bench has a very smooth top. I traced the outline of the scale base to make sure it was centered before I set the balance. But somewhere along the session I would bump it out.

Then I got some of the rubber drawer liner from my wife on top the bench under the scale. Now it doesn't move.
GamePro Scales came with a Pad years back.
Good fined.
 
Well ran across one i couldnt pass up and grabbed an ohaus 1010 from Mr. marcusp323 scale arrived in great shape and functions great. No clue if it has been tuned or not but it balances out nice and quick as well. Where my rcbs bounces 4ish rimes this thing is steady at the second bounce. Super pleased with it. I may grab a couple more now that i know how they function.
 

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I have a couple questions about the Redding scales.
Is the model 1 the only hydraulic dampened? All the 2's I've seen have been magnetic.
sparker stated that the brown #1's had a heavier beam than the green #1's. I've seen pictures of brown #1's with a brass beam and others with a silver colored beam that I just assumed was aluminum. Are they still heavier than the beams on the green #1?
Last, what is the downside to hydraulic dampening? I assume the potential mess but it seems odd that so few were made that way compared to magnetic if they are just as accurate and dampen twice as fast.
 
I have a couple questions about the Redding scales.
Is the model 1 the only hydraulic dampened? All the 2's I've seen have been magnetic.
sparker stated that the brown #1's had a heavier beam than the green #1's. I've seen pictures of brown #1's with a brass beam and others with a silver colored beam that I just assumed was aluminum. Are they still heavier than the beams on the green #1?
Last, what is the downside to hydraulic dampening? I assume the potential mess but it seems odd that so few were made that way compared to magnetic if they are just as accurate and dampen twice as fast.

I have a green Redding No 1 that I used a few years ago while I waited on my Parker tuned Lyman D5. I found the Redding No 1 very accurate, but I must have used the wrong oil because it took forever to settle. I’ve thought about listing it for sale since Scott’s posts seem to have people somewhat interested in this model scale.
 
The green bodied #1s with the black aluminum beams are currently my favorite. I initially dismissed them as my experience with the brown bodied #1s proved slow and tedious. The green bodies however when used with the proper weight oil are as fast as can be had with a beam and comparable to a digital in terms of loading speed.
 

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