Back during the Obama shortages I was out of small pistol primers. At that time the ATF shutdown a pawn/gun store and some of the stock came to the gun show. I bought what I thought was two boxes of Remington small primers for $50. When I paid the man I found out i did not get 2 thousand, I got 17000 primers. I noticed when I got home some of the trays were damp. I put all of the packaging and primers in a dehydrator for several hours. Tried them out that night, I loaded 12 primed cases and to out into the dark and fired them, all went off, all had about the same length flame and the same intensity. over the years they have all been 100% reliable till just recently. 2 or 3 in 12 (revolver guy with 38 spec) are now misfires. Now the $64,000 question ]. Is there a way to remove the primer and replace it without breaking down the whole case? I am un sure if there is such a way to do this SAFELY ????
bad primers
- Thread starter ebb
- Start date
When you say "without breaking down the whole case" you mean without
removing the bullet and powder, then it is a NO.
removing the bullet and powder, then it is a NO.
Do they go bang with a second hit?
In my experience, primers are the most reliable component in the reloading platform. However, I never had "damp" trays of them. Perhaps some of these are indeed damaged. But here again, in my experience, it takes a lot to damage them.
I would also look at other cause factors. Seating, firearm springs tension, tumbler media in the flash hole, etc.
Post #2 I believe accurately answer your question.
I would also look at other cause factors. Seating, firearm springs tension, tumbler media in the flash hole, etc.
Post #2 I believe accurately answer your question.
Homerange, and Walt, no several hits with 2 different S&W model 10s and they don't go bang. Have a bunch of 9mms with the same primers and I have not tried them yet. K22 I was generous with these and gave 2 thousand to a member here and 3 or 4 to my guy that taught me to reload. They both got the same explanation of how i got them and how they may have issues. Nobody turns down free primers. I have never heard from the member but my friend in Tennessee has the same issues. It is without a doubt primers. I am just looking for a way to make this easier than completely breaking down the whole cartridge. That said I am 99% sure there is no way to do it and 100% sure there is no safe way to do it. These were 100% sure fire for many years, If I had known I would have shot them up a long time ago.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Who cares,…. He’s not complaining of the amount he’s complaining there not going off.
Wayne
The guy had 2000 on the table, I asked the price he said $50, I asked for both boxes? He said for all of them. I said OK and laid $50 on the table. He put 2000 in a bag and then reached under the table and put 15 more boxes in the bag. Rumor was Trail Gun and Pawn was raided by the atf and he was trying to get rid of every thing in the shop. I wondered if he got all the components and guns home and didn't have enough room in the garage. If you are in south Florida next winter snow birding I would be glad to give you the rest. I still have 5000 I think. They are all yours!
^^^^ This is what I'd do. It's time to turn mother's picture to the wall and move on.
Reliability is the highest priority on my reloads / firearms priority list. The most accurate firearm / reload is useless if it won't go "bang".
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
ebb, were these in the original packing from Remington?
I am asking because there is such a thing as different chemistry for primer compounds, some of which are known to be very poor at shelf life.
Was there anything on the packing that looked like it said they were for indoor training use?
With the quantity 38s and 9mms I would destroy 4 or 5 kinetic pullers. I think maybe a collet is the answer. No they are standard Remington small pistol primers, not non toxic. When I got them home and got a close look the packaging was worn and as I opened them they had microscopic water droplets on the trays. I dehydrated the primers in their trays and all the factory boxes. I know they say lead styphnate is not effected by water but this has been close to a decade. As I said before I tested and for many years I never had a misfire. Maybe some more time in the dehydrator would have helped, but what I read online cautioned me to not get them too dry. In the bad things that can happen to people this is very, very minor. live and learn
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I care..if he can’t make the difference between 2000 primers and 17000 - well he might not know how to handle them and seat them properly.. whatever..even with todays price of primer..I would not load that kind of primer.
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If you're shooting them from a model 10, I would highly recommend removing the grips and adding a drop of light oil to all the pivoting and contact parts of the trigger assembly before ditching the primers.
Reinstall the grip and work the trigger in double and single action about a dozen times.
Then, go and try your suspect primers again.
This ^^^ and,..
I'd also, crank the Hammer Spring DOWN, a Bit Tighter ( For NOW ) THEN, if they Don't Fire,.. Pull the Bullets !
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