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Anti-seize grease

centershot said:
The silver anti sieze is very messy. MEC recommends it on their reloaders for the collet. I hate the stuff. I actually use STP on my collet. Did not know they even made that stuff anymore.
The thing I remember about STP was that you couldn't get it off of whatever you put/got it on, including your hands.

I use Pro-Gold on the lugs and cam surfaces.

Regards....
 
I've been using Lyman Super Moly on lugs and Lubriplate engine assembly grease on the other surfaces. The Lubriplate works well for my Sig, too.

That having been said, I think I'd stick with manufacturer recommendations if running a custom action just so I had an alibi if something went wrong.
 
+1 for Mobil 1 greasegun stuff, maybe Amsoil is also as good.

As to "anti-sieze", that stuff is for coating threads in highly weather-exposed or corrosive environs, like wheel studs and chassis mounted gear, especially where roadsalt is used.

Robert Whitley endorsed "Phil's Tenacious Oil" for AR bolt lug lubrication. Some pretty sticky stuff. Got mine at local bike shop; might be out of production these days.
 
I use NECO MolySlide on bolt lugs, or moly-fortified automotive grease if out of MolySlide. Never had any galling in either stainless or chrome moly actions with either of these lubes. Only downside is how easy it is to get the black stuff all over your fingers & the rest of the action if you're a little sloppy with application.

Wouldn't mind trying the Pro Gold, just to see how well it works.
 
I use shooters choice grease packaged in syringe. Just like auto / motorcycle forums everybody has their favorite lubricants. I wipe down bolt and lube lugs and cramming surfaces after every shoot whether or not if I clean the bore.
 
GSPV said:
For the lugs and the primary extraction cam, you absolutely need an EP grease.

Kelbly recommended Lucas Red N Tacky to me. I've used it religiously.

Just a smidge will do ha.

For the bolt body, I ise one drop of Hoppes synthetic gun oil. You could use pretty much any light machine oil.

What is the syringe of green grease Kelblys sends with actions?
 
Dow Corning makes some High Vacuum grease that would work. I know it's called vacuum grease, but it maintains it's properties at pressures up to 87,000psi.

Here's a link. You can find it cheaper if you shop around.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31735228?CS_010=31735228&item=31735228&CS_003=7867724&src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test
 
White lithium grease... it's cheap and works great on lugs and cam. A pound for about ten bucs. That'll last a long, long time. Works great on door hinges squeaks to ;D
Been using it for years with no issues on custom and factory guns.
Plus very easy to clean off.
 
Moreys Bigfoot EP grease here. The stuff is bright orange and is tacky as hell. Often hard to get off your fingers. Sticks like crazy to bolt lugs even when your firing lots of shots. I also use it for barrel threads. Its hard to wipe off and strings of it go everywhere trying to get it off your fingers. Gone away from anti sieze it almost seems like it laps threads a bit. If thats true the last thing you want is to be lapping your bolt lugs...
 
Outdoorsman said:

Sticky bolts can come from a lot of things. Neck sizing only quickly comes to mind. The Stickiness sneaks up on you a little at a time.

Hi Outdoorsman,
Your guess is right on the money. I am neck sizing only, and the stickiness did sneak up on me the first time, now I'm hypersensitive to it and noticed it right away. How does neck sizing only contribute to sticky bolt? An explanation would be greatly appreciated.

Kindest regards,

Joe
 
Joe R said:
Outdoorsman said:

Sticky bolts can come from a lot of things. Neck sizing only quickly comes to mind. The Stickiness sneaks up on you a little at a time.

Hi Outdoorsman,
Your guess is right on the money. I am neck sizing only, and the stickiness did sneak up on me the first time, now I'm hypersensitive to it and noticed it right away. How does neck sizing only contribute to sticky bolt? An explanation would be greatly appreciated.

Kindest regards,

Joe

I neck size only and I do not suffer sticky bolts - it comes from clean living, and keeping peanut butter out of the neck sizing die!

;)

I once tried to ruin a 308 case while loading at the range... I loaded it over and over 'til I hit 28 times (neck sized only), and got tired of it - the case was fine, and the bolt closed with no resistance.
 
Shooting high pressure loads the base of the case will slowly expand more and more til the bolt starts getting sticky. Thats when a body die or FL die comes into play. Alot of people- benchrest shooters and f class shooters especially, will size the body and bump the shoulders back 1 thousandth or less after each firing. Not only does it make each case the same dimensionally but it also means easy to chamber and extract and not upsetting the rifle while its sitting in the bags.
 
BY1983 said:
Shooting high pressure loads the base of the case will slowly expand more and more til the bolt starts getting sticky. Thats when a body die or FL die comes into play.

I do not believe I'm shooting high pressure loads. I am pushing a 180 grain bullet at 2,720-2,740 fps. I found the edge of safety and blew a primer at 2,910 fps and I haven't gone back to that neighborhood since.

Can anyone else explain this statement?

Outdoorsman said:
Sticky bolts can come from a lot of things. Neck sizing only quickly comes to mind. The Stickiness sneaks up on you a little at a time.
 
Joe R said:
Outdoorsman said:
Sticky bolts can come from a lot of things. Neck sizing only quickly comes to mind. The Stickiness sneaks up on you a little at a time.

I cannot - I have never had that experience, and I neck size 99% or the time.
 
Joe R said:
BY1983 said:
Shooting high pressure loads the base of the case will slowly expand more and more til the bolt starts getting sticky. Thats when a body die or FL die comes into play.

I do not believe I'm shooting high pressure loads. I am pushing a 180 grain bullet at 2,720-2,740 fps. I found the edge of safety and blew a primer at 2,910 fps and I haven't gone back to that neighborhood since.

Can anyone else explain this statement?

Outdoorsman said:
Sticky bolts can come from a lot of things. Neck sizing only quickly comes to mind. The Stickiness sneaks up on you a little at a time.

The explanation that BY1983 gave is correct -- no other explanation is necessary. The chamber expands under pressure, the brass expands to conform, and eventually the brass is so close to the dimension of the chamber that it gives resistance to bolt closure at the shoulder and/or base. You CAN close the bolt, but accuracy will suffer and speed of handling/bag stability will suffer tremendously.

Every -- and I mean EVERY -- successful competitive accuracy shooter FL sizes every time, with a properly-fitting die, to make the brass uniform and to make the rifle smooth to handle.

Hey, isn't that what BY 1983 and Outdoorsman said? ;)

If you don't believe them, read the books by Tony Boyer, Mike Ratigan, and Glenn Newick. Or ask the successful competitive shooters on this forum.
 
I've had the pound for 3 yrs almost now. I use it on everything
5dd4bd8e.jpg
 

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