Another way to make Savage Bolt lift easier

[Mike Casselton]

@ragsflh
First, I have to correct myself. It's not a needle bearing, but you can see that in the image below.
Also, take note that the screw in portion of the shroud has an insert of some sort in it. It looks to be stainless steel.
I'd assume it's the size of a 38 Spl minus the primer hole. That probably rides against the bearing that is inserted into the bolt body.



I like the mods that he shows. It's very nice looking work.

 

[WSnyder]

where do you get bearing for bolt at ? or bearing number

You go to his website listed in this thread, navigate to his products page and buy the correct kit for your action.

 

[Tommie]

where do you get bearing for bolt at ? or bearing number

Desh Ind.

Shop by Category Bolt Lift Kits Savage Axis Bedding Pillars Custom Dies

deshind.com

 

[std7mag]

Thanks for the information!
Bookmark added!
Will be using your services soon!

 

[Grimstod]

@ragsflh
First, I have to correct myself. It's not a needle bearing, but you can see that in the image below.
Also, take note that the screw in portion of the shroud has an insert of some sort in it. It looks to be stainless steel.
I'd assume it's the size of a 38 Spl minus the primer hole. That probably rides against the bearing that is inserted into the bolt body.

View attachment 1454616

I like the mods that he shows. It's very nice looking work.

The parts are either stainless or aluminum depending on the external finish. For the inside parts they are all stainless. Bearing cages are brass of course.

 

[D-4297]

In the interest of Full Disclosure ; We did put Grims Bolt Lyft Kit in the Bolt and found it was a great improvement , but the Bolt itself still had some issues , so I got out the Dremel .
Grimstod has done several F/P Bushing jobs on Mosin Bolts for me and has re-bushed this same Savage Bolt for the owner. He absolutely does quality work , and has a super fast turn around time .

 

[Rflshootr]

A couple of years ago i got Grims Bolt-lift kit for a buddies Savage , and while we had the Bolt apart , I grabbed my Visor and started looking for anything that had any shiny tracks , or burrs . Stoned everything that didn't move , and took the Dremel with stone , and carefully re-configured the cocking ramp . This Savage now works like a very high dollar action , and I've been told it is the smoothest operating Savage the owner has ever seen . But be advised , Guys . Care ; and a very gentle touch is required . I'm a retired Tool & Diemaker .

Care to mention how exactly you re-configured the cocking ramp? Radiused the apex maybe?

 

[K9TXS]

In the interest of Full Disclosure ; We did put Grims Bolt Lyft Kit in the Bolt and found it was a great improvement , but the Bolt itself still had some issues , so I got out the Dremel .
Grimstod has done several F/P Bushing jobs on Mosin Bolts for me and has re-bushed this same Savage Bolt for the owner. He absolutely does quality work , and has a super fast turn around time .

At the time you did the bolt work as you described in post #14, did you leave in the bolt lift kit after you worked on the bolt?

After you did the work on the bolt, did you try the bolt function without the bolt lift kit? If so, how was the lift after the bolt work, but no bolt lift kit?

 

[D-4297]

No . All of the parts and pieces for the Bolt Lift kit were removed from the Bolt because it wouldn't make sense to be grinding on the Bolt body with a Dremel grinder , while the bearing was in there , would it ?
After and during the work on the Cam areas in the Bolt body , everything was cleaned , and the Lift Kit parts were re-installed , to check function and improvement . I did not ever check the Bolt operation to see if there was any difference in improvement without the Lift Kit parts installed . The whole purpose was to improve operation of the Bolt .

 

[D-4297]

Care to mention how exactly you re-configured the cocking ramp? Radiused the apex maybe?

Very carefully reduced the "Height" of the Ramp at the highest point by maybe seven to ten thou and re-sloped the entire Ramp after reducing that area , to make the ramp a "flatter" , more gradual angle , while still getting the Bolt to "cock" the action . The "Higher" you force something up a angle , the more force it takes to get it up the slope . Reduce the Height , and then adjust the slope .

 

[DShortt]

I wouldn't go removing material from a bolt anywhere without being certain what I wanted to accomplish and how much I was removing and why. Not a good part to be experimenting with IMHO.

Just my personal opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

[D-4297]

I completely agree with you on that . This "project" was done carefully and took about four hours to accomplish . I put a "WARNING" in my original post that this was NOT something a less than qualified person should ever attempt to do I have been working on guns since I was a teen , have a Degree in Mechanical Engineering , and I'm a thirty-five year retired Aerospace Master Tool & Diemaker . I've done work I'm not ever going to be allowed to talk about and that's okay . That stuff is all "Out of Date" now , anyway .

 

[DShortt]

As much as anything I mentioned that in the event that someone who may not possess the proper skills and hadn't pre-planned were to read the thread.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Turned into a PDF, if any are still having problems

 

[Rflshootr]

Very carefully reduced the "Height" of the Ramp at the highest point by maybe seven to ten thou and re-sloped the entire Ramp after reducing that area , to make the ramp a "flatter" , more gradual angle , while still getting the Bolt to "cock" the action . The "Higher" you force something up a angle , the more force it takes to get it up the slope . Reduce the Height , and then adjust the slope .

Makes sense. Kind of like the difference between torquing a fine thread and a coarse thread. So, you lost .007-.010 on firing pin fall...not too bad. Did you make any adjustment to the firing pin spring tension?

 

[D-4297]

Makes sense. Kind of like the difference between torquing a fine thread and a coarse thread. So, you lost .007-.010 on firing pin fall...not too bad. Did you make any adjustment to the firing pin spring tension?

No . We didn't touch the F/P Spring . It was a new spring the owner got from a recommended after-market supplier . I do not know who it was .

 

[Grimstod]

Most firing pins come from factory with about 0.060 of protrusion. Honestly I think this is too much. I set them to 0.045