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Another Crackpot Idea

Gents,

Has anyone any experience with switching barrels routinely on a Rem 700 or clone (Stiller) action?
My idea is to purchase a Stiller long action with additional bolts: Magnum, standard, and maybe 223 bolt faced bolts. What are the pitfalls? All this assumes that one's multitude of barrels have been properly headspaced by your smith. I would think that someone who is able to tie his shoes would be able to remove his barreled action form his stock, put the barrel in a vise, utilize an action wrench to remove the action, and then reinstall the action on one of HIS (or her) additional barrels without more mechanical knowledge than changing a spark plug and properly setting the torque for the barrel to action fit and then for the action screws putting the rifle into the stock.

Theoretically, this would enable one to train cheaply with 223 ammo while shooting your .308, 30-06, 300wm, etc. with the same stock, scope, and trigger, the expenses being several chambered barrels, but the payoff being a greatly reduced number of scopes and a smaller gun safe.

Where are the holes in this idea?

Thanks in advance for your thoughtful replies.

God bless America,

Scarface 26
 
I have several switch barrel rifles, though not on Stillers.

The main issue I had was adjusting scopes from one barrel to the next, so now I just have one scope per barrel & switch them at the same time. It's no big deal as I drop the scopes of to screw barrels out & in.
 
Gents,

Has anyone any experience with switching barrels routinely on a Rem 700 or clone (Stiller) action?
My idea is to purchase a Stiller long action with additional bolts: Magnum, standard, and maybe 223 bolt faced bolts. What are the pitfalls? All this assumes that one's multitude of barrels have been properly headspaced by your smith. I would think that someone who is able to tie his shoes would be able to remove his barreled action form his stock, put the barrel in a vise, utilize an action wrench to remove the action, and then reinstall the action on one of HIS (or her) additional barrels without more mechanical knowledge than changing a spark plug and properly setting the torque for the barrel to action fit and then for the action screws putting the rifle into the stock.

Theoretically, this would enable one to train cheaply with 223 ammo while shooting your .308, 30-06, 300wm, etc. with the same stock, scope, and trigger, the expenses being several chambered barrels, but the payoff being a greatly reduced number of scopes and a smaller gun safe.

Where are the holes in this idea?

Thanks in advance for your thoughtful replies.

God bless America,

Scarface 26


I wanted to switch bolts on a Stiller Tac 30 and they wouldn't do it. Had to send them back the complete new action for a swap. This was a couple years ago so best to call them and see if they will even sell you a single bolt. Your grand plan may be for naught.
 
It is just about as easy as changing a spark plug as you say. You might get tired of changing barrels and scopes with the rezeroing. I do.
 
Had a 30-06/6BR switch barrel rig built for my Pops. Rezeroing hasn't phased him yet. He loves it. It's built on a 700 action with a pinned lug.
CW
 
I think the Bighorn actions have a removable boltface, much like the Savage. That will be my next action. That would be cheaper than the whole bolt. Just checked thier site. New bolt heads are $125. It's a great action. I have a switch barrel Stiller set up. I have a single shot and a repeater matched to use the same barrels. I have barrels for them in 6br, 30br and 6.5x47. Switching barrels is easy. You don't have to remove the action from the stock or even remove the scope, if you're careful. This is the repeater.
image.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I think the Bighorn actions have a removable boltface, much like the Savage. That will be my next action. That would be cheaper than the whole bolt. Just checked thier site. New bolt heads are $125. It's a great action. I have a switch barrel Stiller set up. I have a single shot and a repeater matched to use the same barrels. I have barrels for them in 6br, 30br and 6.5x47. Switching barrels is easy. You don't have to remove the action from the stock or even remove the scope, if you're careful. This is the repeater.
View attachment 998971
 
I have a switch barrel stiller tac 30 with a hv contour and Rem varmint contour both in 6.5x47. Haven't tried switching bolts but have had the idea for a 6.5 saum. Interested in how this works out for you.

One thing with stillers is the price of a bolt is a little more than half the price of the action.
 
The Shilen Action made for them by Stiller, has the floating bolt head that can be changed out like a Savage.
Barrels for that action utilize a Savage small shank thread pattern. You can have your barrels made with a shoulder or use a barrel nut.
 
I think the Bighorn actions have a removable boltface, much like the Savage. That will be my next action. That would be cheaper than the whole bolt. Just checked thier site. New bolt heads are $125. It's a great action. I have a switch barrel Stiller set up. I have a single shot and a repeater matched to use the same barrels. I have barrels for them in 6br, 30br and 6.5x47. Switching barrels is easy. You don't have to remove the action from the stock or even remove the scope, if you're careful. This is the repeater.
View attachment 998971

I've always removed my scope when changing barrels for fear of damaging it and that is a big part of the aggravation in changing. Does clamping the barrel further away from the action cause any twisting? What sort of torque do you use? My 'smith advised 80 ft-lbs, but I know others use less. Thanks
 
I have a switch barrel stiller tac 30 with a hv contour and Rem varmint contour both in 6.5x47. Haven't tried switching bolts but have had the idea for a 6.5 saum. Interested in how this works out for you.

One thing with stillers is the price of a bolt is a little more than half the price of the action.

+1
Roughly $500 with firing assm.
 
I've always removed my scope when changing barrels for fear of damaging it and that is a big part of the aggravation in changing. Does clamping the barrel further away from the action cause any twisting? What sort of torque do you use? My 'smith advised 80 ft-lbs, but I know others use less. Thanks

Hey Tim: I can't answer the twisting question with any scientific evidence. I only torque it down to 40 ft. lbs. I figure(by redneck engineering standards) that a 1" tube of steel won't twist from that. None of them has loosened up on me. I haven't seen a change in accuracy from the barrels I've been using. They're heavy varmint and Palma contours. I wouldn't do it with a Sporter contour, tho. Josh.
 
ALL of my actions are now "switch BBL" actions. REM 700's and BAT's. Just have the recoil lug on your REM/ REM CLONE pinned.

I can switch a tube in 3 min. Actually had to do it at an IBS 1000 yard match. Started in the 6 min sighter period, had an "issue", grabbed my gun went to my truck swapped tubes and was back on the line with time to spare to re zero!!

Good luck,
Tod
 
Gents,

Thanks for your replies. The long pole in the tent for me is the re-zeroing (insert donkey ears on my head for not thinking of this before the post) after each barrel swap or having a scope "zeroed" for each barrel. With an overcrowded gun safe at present, another high - end optical addition might force my beautiful wife to move me and the safe into a tent until the safe gets lighter.

More to follow if this project gets off the ground as the safe gets lighter. Watch the for sale section.

God bless America,

Scarface 26
 
I've always removed my scope when changing barrels for fear of damaging it and that is a big part of the aggravation in changing. Does clamping the barrel further away from the action cause any twisting? What sort of torque do you use? My 'smith advised 80 ft-lbs, but I know others use less. Thanks
+1 ON THE 80FT-LBS I HAVE 5 SWITCH BARRELS AND THAT ALL I'VE USED WORKS WELL FOR ME !!
 
+1 ON THE 80FT-LBS I HAVE 5 SWITCH BARRELS AND THAT ALL I'VE USED WORKS WELL FOR ME !!


Mine are machined where i screw in the barrel by hand tight, then just bump it with a snug with the action wrench.. it aint crazy tight..

My smith told me he builds switch barrels for some BR shooters that just go hand tight so they dont need a vice at all as well..

Moral to the story they aint gotta be factory remington tight..
 
I have more switch barrel rifles, than non switch barrel.

I just bought a Borden Alpine Magnum and it will have the magnum bolt, a .378 bolt and a .473 bolt fitted by Jim Borden.

If you are going to build a switch rig, buy a GREAT action as a start, it will be worth it in the long run....

Phil.
 

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