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Annealing temp

hey guys just a quick question, I got 3 bottles of 600* tempilaq from my brother. I was wondering if there was a way I could use this for annealing. I know most of the time people use 750* but thought maybe I could use it on the shoulder or something instead of in the neck, any thought or advice would be great!
 
Try it out on some old work hardened cases. It can't hurt anything and it may work fine.

The worst that could happen is that you have to anneal a little more often.
 
Try it out on some old work hardened cases. It can't hurt anything and it may work fine.

The worst that could happen is that you have to anneal a little more often.

I am not in agreement here. It seems that annealing/molecular change doesn't occur until a higher temp is reached.
If a Bud has some 750, maybe back door/shadetree a process by timing how soon some shoulder or upper case bodies register the 600 after the 750 registers? Like I said, shade tree.
 
Then tell us exactly the time and temperature you would use for various different cases to insure exactly the right anneal.
You can also tell us how you would measure the results so you can repeat it.


I am not in agreement here. It seems that annealing/molecular change doesn't occur until a higher temp is reached.
If a Bud has some 750, maybe back door/shadetree a process by timing how soon some shoulder or upper case bodies register the 600 after the 750 registers? Like I said, shade tree.
 
I offered a methodology using a known (750°) which needs to be linked by # of seconds to reaction of the 600. As I alluded to and stated, a shade tree approach and obviously trial and error.
 
Work in a dark room with a desk lamp that is controlled with an on off switch with your foot. Extension cord for a Christmas tree. Do the heating in the dark and heat to a dull red, then dump in water. It is time and temperature dependent. At 600F it will take too long and the heat will go down to the base. At 750F you only need a few second, then dump in water. See this link for more info.
 
Work in a dark room with a desk lamp that is controlled with an on off switch with your foot. Extension cord for a Christmas tree. Do the heating in the dark and heat to a dull red, then dump in water. It is time and temperature dependent. At 600F it will take too long and the heat will go down to the base. At 750F you only need a few second, then dump in water. See this link for more info.

The link you quote says not to heat until a slight glow or bright red. It doesn't say to dump in water. It says dump in water or onto a tray. Water quenching accomplishes nothing. You cannot go wrong finding out how long it takes to see a dull red in a dark room then give it about 1 sec less time. It's impossible to overheat the case head. It you melt the neck with an induction annealer the case head is not overheated. The neck end opening will get red before the main portion of the neck. Don't put the pencil point inner flame on the neck. It is way to hot and will lead to inconsistent results. You don't need Templaq. 5 minutes at 800F there is almost zero hardness change.
 
I'm not sure if you have seen this video yet. Before I had my amp. I liked using this method. It seemed to help keep consistency. Try it out and see what you think. http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hide/forums/5532-reloading/13480300-brass-annealing-guide
Assuming he cases are bright and clean and free of lube residue the color change when annealing is due to the thickness of the oxide layer (time and temperature). I don't have any problems with his annealing method. I do question the theory that zinc gets burned off if you get to hot. I think it's an unproven theory. If zinc was being burned off the cartridge surface would be textured?
 
Just to throw some more info into discussion when I received my BenchSource annealer the instructions said to use 650F Tempilaq.
 
Assuming he cases are bright and clean and free of lube residue the color change when annealing is due to the thickness of the oxide layer (time and temperature). I don't have any problems with his annealing method. I do question the theory that zinc gets burned off if you get to hot. I think it's an unproven theory. If zinc was being burned off the cartridge surface would be textured?

I agree....the conversion of Zinc to zinc oxide occurs a about 1800F and Brass melts at about 1550F.
 
750 is probably not quite enough. That number is often quoted because it's a good, available number for a one hour annealing time. Shorter times require higher temperatures. It's very tricky to nail down the exact temperature required for a quick anneal, it depends on multiple factors, and changes in a very non-linear way. Unfortunately, the engineering literature out there is focused on more typical uses in industry, not what we do, so it's not much help.
 
Assuming he cases are bright and clean and free of lube residue the color change when annealing is due to the thickness of the oxide layer (time and temperature). I don't have any problems with his annealing method. I do question the theory that zinc gets burned off if you get to hot. I think it's an unproven theory. If zinc was being burned off the cartridge surface would be textured?
I was not worried about the zinc being burned off. But if you have clean cases it's was an easy way to set up my machine.
 
I don't use temperature paint I don't dump annealed cases in water. I don't let the tip of the flame touch cases at any time. If you see yellow flame flare up off the neck then you've over-annealed. Working in very low light you will be able to see the heat move up the neck.
As said above, as long as the flame is pointed at the right spot (not on the case body) it is very hard to get the heads too hot.
Mine come off the Benchsource annealer into an aluminum cake pan.
 

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