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Annealer Home Built.

Hi all
here are the plans for the case annealer taken off the Shooting Australia web site from El Skippo
Its a bit of trial and error with making this, but it does work very well.
Have also made one and no major problems.
All the best
Hope this helps
 

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>>>there is only one Company that sells Tempilaq here $49.50 per bottle ! You would simply shudder at some of the prices we pay down here for shooting gear.<<<

I can get it for $15/2oz with around $5-$6 shipping. Is the $49 you have to pay include some high international shipping or are they just sticking it to you because they "assume" you are using it for Evil shooting purposes?

Regards.....
 
Dixie , we get it stuck to us on a pretty regular basis , be glad that you live in the US when it comes to shooting gear !
I cry tears of blood when I see some the great kit you have available and the prices you pay.
I suspect that the price of $49.50 per bottle of Tempilaq is based on the fact that there is only one Company here that imports it from the US and can charge what they like.
My next bottle will come from Brownells for sure.

regards
Mike.
 
Does anyone know what they use for the main drum? Looks stainless. I was going to use a Christmas tin, but it's much thinner.
 
dixieppc said:
>>>there is only one Company that sells Tempilaq here $49.50 per bottle ! You would simply shudder at some of the prices we pay down here for shooting gear.<<<

I can get it for $15/2oz with around $5-$6 shipping. Is the $49 you have to pay include some high international shipping or are they just sticking it to you because they "assume" you are using it for Evil shooting purposes?

Regards.....

I prefer to just use a "Metal Heat Crayon" like the brand named "Tempilstik". Just touch it to the heated case and if it just leaves a smear your temp is right. No need to paint every case, just check those while setting the flame and "time". Here the "crayons" sell for around $8 and the one I bought 5 years ago still has another 10-15 years of life left in it.
 
I went to Walmart and found a stainless container in the pet food isle and cut it down. It works great.
 

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Screamineagle said:
Does anyone know what they use for the main drum? Looks stainless. I was going to use a Christmas tin, but it's much thinner.

never mind, I see that you use cake pans. I'll be building one shortly. I have an electric "spit roast" motor with built in rheostat to adjust the speed.
 
jkl said:
I went to Walmart and found a stainless container in the pet food isle and cut it down. It works great.
Very nice looking machine, JKL. Good Work!

Regards....
 
I like my copy of Skip's design for the following reasons:
_DSC3271

I built a lightweight box out of .200" plywood which is too thin to edge-fasten so I used 3/8" sticks glued onto all the edges. I built the enclosure so that the front face is removable and I mounted ALL the components on the front face. That way you have complete access to everything including all the wiring when you're setting up and adjusting the machine.

Most of the "case stopper rods", the rod which holds the case near the bottom of the annealing pan, are mounted so that they're directly in the flame. They get real hot. I bent mine in such a way that it's tucked inside the pan and out of the direct flame. That works great and I highly recommend you incorporate it into your design.

Using an extension hose on the torch puts less stress on the torch head mounting points and makes it easy to adjust the torch angle and distance.

These things are easy to build, but to run properly the rotating parts need to run pretty true so use good craftsmanship when centering up the annealing pan and case feed cylinder. The various ramps, feed chutes, and case stoppers need to be pretty close to these rotating components to function reliably, so you don't want any rotating parts to have much run-out.
 
The first case drum I built was rolled up from 316 SS sheet , worked well but was not completely round and looked wonky when rotating , so then for the next build I found a 5" Ally cake tin at a Chefs / Pastry Cooks Supply store, cost was $8.00.


Mike.
 
nice info
​
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Mr Underbridge said:
Hey guys how did you make the case drum? (the part that picks up the cases from the hopper with half moon cut out)?
Make equal size end pieces (for side to side spacing) and bolt it all together, wood end pieces and whatever material you are using, then run on a table saw or router table. When completed, make certain that you leave the tool of choice with the same number of fingers that you started with.
 
Mr Underbridge said:
Hey guys how did you make the case drum? (the part that picks up the cases from the hopper with half moon cut out)?
I bought a one foot length of Acetal rod on Ebay. I cut a piece to length and dressed the end square. Then I used packaging tape to fasten a piece of 1/2" by 1/2" wood to the edge. Then I drilled with a 1/2" Forstner bit nearly the full length of the case drum centering the point of the Forstner bit very close to the outside edge of the plastic. The wood taped to the side stabilized the Forstner bit so that it wouldn't wander. The result was a channel just the right size for a .223 round.

Then I bored the base with a 1" Forstner bit to accept the hub and spacer I bought at Servo City. The hub is just the right size for the 8mm motor shaft.
 

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