• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Annealeez

I checked it after dark. I have no glow the flame isnt changing color. The case is in the flame the "magic" 5 seconds. I think im good if anything slightly under annealed. Which means im not ruining brass just possibly not getting the full advantage. @dickn52
 
Quote: "If cases are heated to about 600 degrees (F) for one hour, they will be thoroughly annealed--head and body included. That is, they will be ruined. (For a temperature comparison, pure lead melts at 621.3 degrees F).

The critical time and temperature at which the grain structure reforms into something suitable for case necks is 662 degrees (F) for some 15 minutes. A higher temperature, say from 750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds. If brass is allowed to reach temperatures higher than this (regardless of the time), it will be made irretrievably and irrevocably too soft.

Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done--it will be too soft. From this discussion we can see that there are four considerations concerning time and temperature"
 
I have actually read that article before but read it again. Im positive im not over annealing, but worrued im under annealing.
 
Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done--it will be too soft. From this discussion we can see that there are four considerations concerning time and temperature"
Not sure if I read this right, if it glows at 950 how could it be to soft a couple hundred degrees below this temp as that would put it at 750 which I thought was the magic number ? I probably missed something ,but thats just me...lol
 
My Peterson brass has such a heavy annealing ring even after all the clean up and 2 firings i cant see a nice annealing ring from running it through the unit. I have been playing with 9 pieces of brass i had.
 
The last brass I annealed was my 30 BR, my method must be ok, I haven't had any issues, Gun shot Great, brass sized very consistent, Bullets seated like butter. I have been doing it this way a few years. Here we go ! I turn the lights out and as the neck just starts to glow, I said just as it starts ! not glowing bright orange, just as it starts it drops out of the flame. I have used 750 Tempilaq inside the neck & 450 outside of the body from shoulder to base to make sure the heat was not migrating to far on the high side down to the case head,usually the 450 melted down just past the shoulder. After 4 bottles of the high price stuff drying out even with the thinner, I just ran with what I learned with the temp indicator and all the great YouTube videos, yes I was worried about over annealing also at first, and yes it can be dangerous ! and over done. But under annealed is just Time probably wasted ! I think high heat, with fast time,is the ticket. I use map gas, a pencil torch head and aim it right at the bottom of the neck I have one of those inexpensive cake pan $99.00 e-bay annealers !
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2519.PNG
    IMG_2519.PNG
    1.4 MB · Views: 27
Last edited:
The last brass I annealed was my 30 BR, my method must be ok, I haven't had any issues, Gun shot Great, brass sized very consistent, Bullets seated like butter. I have been doing it this way a few years. Here we go ! I turn the lights out and as the neck just starts to glow, I said just as it starts ! not glowing bright orange, just as it starts it drops out of the flame. I have used 750 Tempilaq inside the neck & 450 outside of the body from shoulder to base to make sure the heat was not migrating to far on the high side down to the case head,usually the 450 melted down just past the shoulder. After 4 bottles of the high price stuff drying out even with the thinner, I just ran with what I learned with the temp indicator and all the great YouTube videos, yes I was worried about over annealing also at first, and yes it can be dangerous ! and over done. But under annealed is just Time probably wasted ! I think high heat, with fast time,is the ticket. I use map gas, a pencil torch head and aim it right at the bottom of the neck I have one of those inexpensive cake pan $99.00 e-bay annealers !
That annealer looks pretty cool can you show some pics and more info.
 
I rember it came from Seattle, Tacoma or somewhere in Washington State 2 1/2 years ago. I order a cake pan and cut it down with a Jig saw for 30x47 size brass. There was a you tube video of how to make one these with parts and measurements it looked almost like mine but he modified a few things.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2521.PNG
    IMG_2521.PNG
    683.6 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_2523.PNG
    IMG_2523.PNG
    1,017.8 KB · Views: 18
I rember it came from Seattle, Tacoma or somewhere in Washington State 2 1/2 years ago. I order a cake pan and cut it down with a Jig saw for 30x47 size brass. There was a you tube video of how to make one these with parts and measurements it looked almost like mine but he modified a few things.
It looks pretty simple and functional.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
168,957
Messages
2,265,357
Members
81,648
Latest member
dburr26
Back
Top