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Adjusting The Degree of Sizing

What system do you use to adjust the amount of sizing to produce a .001 to .002 shoulder bump for multiple bolt rifles of the same caliber?

A. Shims

B. Competition Shell Holders

C. Other

I'm currently using memory marks with a sharpie on the full sizing die. This obviously is not the most precise or efficient method so I'm considering going to shims as an economical option. Like to hear your suggestions. Thanks.
 
I also have sharpie marks on my fl die. I have enough problems without doing multi guns on the same die. Just the hardness change of the brass keeps me busy, I'll shoot for .002", but take .001" I just want them all the same.
 
A Hood Press with tactile clicks is about as good as it gets. Adjust your die for one gun then after that one click/turn equal .001 bump. The press isn't cheap but it's nice. Bullet central is the sole distributor.

Bart
 
What system do you use to adjust the amount of sizing to produce a .001 to .002 shoulder bump for multiple bolt rifles of the same caliber?

I'm currently using memory marks with a sharpie on the full sizing die. This obviously is not the most precise or efficient method so I'm considering going to shims as an economical option. Like to hear your suggestions. Thanks.

Economical option: Any reloader with a height gage can measure the height of the die above the press, raising and or lowering the die should be a matter of measuring the protrusion of the die above the press, real simple, one turn of the die is .071"+ very few. Then there is that thing about understanding the concept of ZERO.

There is an assumption the case has nothing to do with sizing when it comes to die adjustment. My cases have the ability to resist sizing. My press has an ability to overcome the case's ability to resist sizing. As my cases' ability to resist sizing increases I have to increases the presses' ability to cover come the resistance.

If my die does not make it to the shell holder when the ram is raised there will be a gap between the bottom of the die and top of the shell holder. I size cases for long chambers, I adjust the die off of the shell holder .014" when sizing cases for one chamber. It is a tuff sale to convenes a reloader resistance to sizing is reduced when the die is adjusted off of the shell holder. The one chamber is .016" longer from the shoulder of the chamber to the bolt face than a minimum length case of .011" longer than a go-gage length chamber.

F. Guffey
 
I have one set of Redding Competition shell holders. I paid $5.00 for the set. Not a problem for me but three of the shell holders are off by .001" each. Then there i9s that part about sizing cases for short chambers and sizing cases for chambers that are longer than a field reject chamber.

F. Guffey
 
I use a PMA adjustment collar around my die... Basically I just gradually screw the die down and take multible measurements with my calibers and shoulder bump gauge..
 
I've used a set of shims that I made for several years without any issues. I keep them separated in a couple of wallet photo sleeves. That being said, I do like the looks of the PMA die adjuster.
 
Gday,
Im happy with my PMA micro adjuster I always struggled with shoulder bump not anymore actualy I need another one
best get on to that.
Im sure most methods work its more the nut behind the wheel Im one of them.

Cheers Trev.
 
I have used Skips die shims for years. I also have a Hood press with the ratchet die adjuster that gives 0.0005" changes. I still prefer the metal shims because that is what I am used to. The comp.shell holders are specific to case head families and can become expensive. Also IMHO for BR comp. .002" is much to coarse of bump adjustment.
 
Thanks to all for sharing your method, lots of good info.


Leaning towards giving the shims a try since it's the most economical option.
 
I just make sure my headspace is dead nuts and brass gets sized in the same die and interchange without issue.
 
On standard die threads it only takes 5° of rotation to move the die 0.001" approximately.

Makes it fiddly to fine tune!
 
Skip's shims are installed between the top of the press and locking ring ring. That requires the die to be removed to install. If I used shims I would verify, my opinion, using skip's shims and verifying is like wearing as belt and suspenders, instead of shims I go straight to verifying, for one reason. The die is adjusted to, off or below the shell holder because of threads. To make 'it' work the die must be checked for off, to or below the shell holder.

F. Guffey
 

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