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A “quick bedding” tutorial

You should see what I can do with a tube of 3M panel bonder,duct tape and baleing wire.

Seriously I'm curious as to how 3M panel bonder would work as a bedding agent.
Its hard as hell, but has flexibility long working time for clean up.
What is the compression strength? Thats where the rubber meets the road. If its 10,000+ psi itll work
 
What is the compression strength? Thats where the rubber meets the road. If its 10,000+ psi itll work
I'll find out for ya.
I do know there is "NO" shrinkage with this product.
In my industry we use it for gluing non structural body panels on vehicles...

Although I've witnessed a Plymouth neon that got a trunk floor glued in with no supporting welds that was rear ended a 2and time..
Trunk floor was folded like a taco, but the glue held!!
 
Panel bonder may render your stock and action one piece permanently seeing as how its made to glue on door skins and such. I know its hard stuff though
 
If you use tape and leave it on there you will have bedding material on an edge and itll suck trying to fix it. I prefer to clean it up and i can see any stray compound. I also realize people that dont do this every day may mix up way too much and make a mess so tape will help. Just remember as soon as you get it cleaned up pull the tape off and clean up again. As for the bolts they are 1/4-28 socket head screws with the head cut off and most importantly a screwdriver slot cut into the end. Just get the longest ones they have
Dammn it i picked up 14-20 screws.
KFC straw is too skinny
 
Many years ago I started tinkering with bedding the stocks on our deer rifles to try to get the most out of them. Back then they were all wooden stocks. I started with a couple of mine then did my father in law’s and then a shooting buddy asked me if I’d bed his rifle. I said sure, just order an Accu-u-gel kit from Brownell’s and come on over. We were sitting at the dining room table and I had the action striped down and was putting on the release agent. I explained to my buddy that we put it on so the stock would come off after the bedding cured. He asked what happens if if the release agent didn’t work right. I told him we’d have to hack the stock off with a hatchet. he said oh man, that’s terrible. As I set the action in the fresh bedding, he said you don’t look the least bit nervous. I told him I wasn’t. He asked why, and I said it’s not my rifle
 
I have, several times, bedded a rifle by simply scraping out the inletting behind the recoil lug, mixing some AcraGlas and filling it in and, after waxing the receiver and screws, just putting it together and wiping off the excess. I didn't tighten up the screw, so I didn't flex the action. I never took it apart. Just tightened the screw up and shot the rifle. It always worked better than I had any reason to expect. I usually did this on rifles where I knew the owner wouldn't want to spend the money but where the stock was suspect in some way. WH
 
I started floating the tang on Remington 40X receivers in 1977 and have continued the practice to this day, on my own rifles. In fact, I have a single shot Model 70 on which the tang is floated as well. Why float the tang on a Savage? Because there is no screw there, because it is behind a generous hollow in the stock, and because floating it simplifies the bedding. Does it shoot better? I can't honestly say so. Mine are floated and shoot very well so I stick with it. WH
 
What a fantastic thread! Thanks to Dusty for creating it and to Bc'z for reposting it. Will the same procedure work on a Mauser action or a Howa that has the action screw through the front lug?
 
What a fantastic thread! Thanks to Dusty for creating it and to Bc'z for reposting it. Will the same procedure work on a Mauser action or a Howa that has the action screw through the front lug?
Itll be basically the same but the changes id make for that:
Id put a headless bolt in it and do what i call a location bedding where ill only bed like the sides and front of the lug (with tape on it for clearance on the bottom and front) then once thats dry id pop it out, scuff most of that up leaving spots for locating it, fill the bolt hole in the action and stock with clay then bed the whole thing. Drill out the epoxy in the pillar from underneath and its ready to go
 
I bedded my model 70 last month I like how it came out but I had about .010 or less movement with the indicator when I loosen the front screw. I went with the full stress free approach just headless stock making screws with tape and nothing putting pressure on action while it dried, just setting in marine Tex with its own weight. Only thing I could think that caused my little movement would be how I held it while it dried. I’m not really sure on how everyone else holds the gun while the bedding dries to get .000 when it’s done if anyone has any pointers.
 
I bedded my model 70 last month I like how it came out but I had about .010 or less movement with the indicator when I loosen the front screw. I went with the full stress free approach just headless stock making screws with tape and nothing putting pressure on action while it dried, just setting in marine Tex with its own weight. Only thing I could think that caused my little movement would be how I held it while it dried. I’m not really sure on how everyone else holds the gun while the bedding dries to get .000 when it’s done if anyone has any pointers.
On that gun id put a clamp on it as it dried. Do a quick skim bed on it and try that. Id also let the bedding run out the front under the chamber. The best way to get .000 movement is to not pop it out after it dries
 

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