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A little reloading trick from me

This is just advice!!! That it or leave it!!

With my 40+ years of being a precision reloader, I have tried all types of case lubes and end up throwing them all away and going back to the original bottle of high pressure oil I bought over 40 years ago!!! Most paste wax lubes and some spray lubes use wool oils or wool wax!!! Almost all mammal oils and fats contain Stearic Acid!!! This acid is more acidic than petroleum based pressure oils!!! I was an engineer and I check chemical and physical properties of fluids used in my home and in my former company's facility!!!

Rubbing wax or pastes onto cases is a big waste of time at the bench!! Plus, it involves more time to remove it!!! Sprays cost more with the wasted overspray!!

The secret to using high pressure lubes is feeling the diff ended of the press handle movement, both up and down!! Apply 2 or 3 drops of oil onto 1/2 of the width of the lube pad and quickly, but lightly, trowel the oil over the pad surface with a plastic coated play card!!! Using a 5/8" thick strip of wood butted up to pad, will allow lubing of the upper third of the neck and body of the case!!! Take 5 dry cases, lube the case and then, take each case and lightly scrap the neck on the pad while rotating the case!! This will lube the inside of the mouth of the case!! Size those cases to lube the die and expander!!! Size dry case until slightly more resistance in press handle movement in either direction!! Any resistance requires 2 more lubed cases to relube the die and expander!!

I'm still on my 1st bottle of Bonanza HP lube with over 15000 cases being sized!! Around 80% were same cases!!! 223 and 22-250!!

The picture below shows how much I have left of that $2.00 bottle!!!

Now, we get into my field of engineering profession!!!! Solvents and oil viscosity!! The higher the viscosity, the more work required to degrease!!! Light oils, such as the HP oils only require immersion and possible agitation in the right type of solvents while heavier viscosity oils (grease, pastes, or waxes) requires physical scrubbing and solvents!!! I use old modified plastic stadium cups and place upside down case fitted into the cup with holes drilled in the bottom of the cup!!! The cup with the cases is immersed in a half gallon container with enough acetone to more than cover the cases!!! Give the cup a few twists after letting the cases soak for 5 minutes!! Let them soak for another 5!! A few more twist and remove the cases!! Scatter the cases onto a towel laying inside a tray!! Move the cases outside and let the sun total evaporate the acetone!!! The cases are now degrease both inside and out!!!
The most common solvent in nail polish and polish remover is acetone. A bad news solvent.
Acetone is not bad for you as long as you use it in a well ventilated area!!! I have gone through gallons of acetone both in Bondo and boat repair!!! I used around 10 gallons of Bondo to fill exterior steel door frame mounting dimples in the jambs!!! Used over 5 gallons of acetone to clean the mixing and applicator knives and adhesives off of metal and glass surfaces!! 10 years of exposure over ten years ago!!! EPA and OHSA standards are severely over spec for most hazardous materials!!! Just like lead exposure specification in battery plants!!! 35 years ago, blood lead permissible levels were 100 ppm!! 25 years ago, 75ppm!!! 15 Years ago 50ppm!! WHY!!! INCREASED FINE REVENUES AND BUREAUCRATIC CONTROL!!
 
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That sounds like wayyyyyy too much work!… and I don’t want any lube at all on my shoulders however you have a nice old 304 I see!… I have one as well…. Cool old scales
Wayne
Good old scales for precision reloading in those days gone by!!! Use it to verify the FX-120 scales with the V-4 trickler!! It is amazing that the old 304 scales can display .02 grains variance with a 1/2 thickness pointer movement!!! I had a prism magnifier mounted on those scales!!! But, shit happens and I knock it off onto the concrete floor!!! The 120 is slightly more accurate, but the real benefit to digital scales is time!!! We both know it took a few seconds for the beam to settle or come to rest!!!
Believe it or not, out of all those rounds loaded, I only dimpled 2 280AI cases!!! That small shoulder can not have excessive oil on it!!! A very small amount of oil on the shoulder is OK, but a little more means dimples!!! Those 2 cases were the first cases sized after oiling the pad!!! Those 2 cases were used for foulers and the dimples disappeared!!! Picked the playing card out of the trash, applied a heavier trowel on the pad, PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
BILL
 
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I'm interested in the chat about powder scales, also I see tricklers for sale. I shot benchrest for years, and never saw any competitor weigh a powder charge. Just seems weird that most of the folks on this forum are accuracy oriented, meticulous, and experienced, but the mentioned weighing and trickling operations seem to be a prevailing mode. Just curious, no curmudgeonly intent lol.
Maybe just about the difference between granular and ball powder would cover the answer.
 
Little bit off topic but with all the guys of my generation using acteone and carb tetra i thought i would add my experience ...using Tri chlora ethyelene to wash hands multiple times daily,after a job of joining grease filled telecom cables. (ex cable splicer here).
I think it has led to my problem hands, fingers split and bleed. Constantly wear nitrile gloves with lubrication gel under the glove.
 
Here is a suggestion from me.

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when loading on the single stage press there's really only need for Redding or Hornady resizing wax. I get my fingers kind of greasy and just rub the case and go.

Most of the time I don't clean my cases in the stainless media unless they've been shot a whole bunch. But I always need a convenient way to wipe the wax off after reloading.

I've tried all different kinds of stuff to get rid of the wax. Here is the best stuff. Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has no ammonia and is alcohol-based and makes quick work of the wax and leaves the cases squeaky clean. You can even put them away slightly wet and they will dry very quickly.

View attachment 1541961View attachment 1541962

I buy it from Amazon. I hope this helps. Happy Resurrection Day!

:)

Bradley.
I use Hornady One Shot spray and/or Imperial wax for sizing brass

Started using the Sprayway you recommended --works great on both
Amazon sent me the Foaming cans, seems to work fine for me

Following sizing place cases on towel, spray the cases, and roll in towel for a few seconds then transfere to another towell and let dry completely. Thats it.

Thanks for the info/tip

CLP
 
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All these over educated city folk would die if they got gasoline or diesel on them!… I’ve had my hands clear to my armpit up cattle’s asses all day long,…. No gloves, backpack sprayers leaking from every joint full of every spray imaginable, 12-16 hours a day, no gloves no hazmat suit!… worked in a sawmill over 30 years, everything from brake clean to Costic soda, I’ve had the same pair of leather gloves in my back pocket at work probably 10 years and other than a little pitch and oil there like new, I hate having them on!.. there hot!… you can’t feel what your doing and you lose about 30% if your grip with gloves on!… I hate gloves
Wayne
How do you interview for the cattle job?
 
How do you interview for the cattle job?
A interview for me?… I wouldn’t need one. I would get a job anywhere around here on my name alone,….. but if I was giving a interview that would be easy, half of them would be immediately dismissed if there hat was on backwards, flat brimmed hat, tattoos and earrings!… most of the rest after they opened there mouths and started speaking would be let go, then the ones with soft girl hands!… outta 25 maybe two would make the cut. Then when we got in the pickup and they turned some squalling noise on he could leave too!…. Pretty much if he was a hardcore right wing conservative constitutionalist and looked like John Wayne he could have the job!
Wayne
 
I don’t know about others but I never lube the shoulders, if I accidentally get some on the shoulder I wipe it off!…. Everything in your loading room is hazardous,…. I don’t use acetone but I’m not scared to use it. I see men using gloves , they must have feminine hands and are scared the lube will discolor them, I use gloves for stretching barb wire
Wayne
I lube the bottom 2/3 of the case nothing on the top 1/3 except maybe inside the nks, hazardous is the burnt gases you breathe in after u fire the rifle, pistol,, big time hazmatic. that stuff is the worst of the worst by far
 
Everyone gets off topic on any topic! Thanks for the tip on SprayWay glass cleaner, had it in the closet and we've used it for years for windows but now I have my own can for lube removal!!
 
Everyone gets off topic on any topic! Thanks for the tip on SprayWay glass cleaner, had it in the closet and we've used it for years for windows but now I have my own can for lube removal!!
Regular old Windex would probably work as well. I use it often for all sorts of duties, lately to soften old dried bugs on automobiles.
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Regular old Windex would probably work as well. I use it often for all sorts of duties, lately to soften old dried bugs on automobiles.
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Uh no, this stuff is awesome! Use Windex to clean windows and peel your bugs off we'll also remove your wax
 

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