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A little reloading trick from me

I just spray on Hornady One-Shot and dry tumble for 15 minutes to remove it after sizing. Spray goes on evenly and the brass all sizes within .0005. I've read that guys are sticking cases but after 10s of thousands of resized rifle cases I have never had an issue with it.

I'm not sure why smiring die wax on each individual case and then wiping every case off again is either faster or easier. I guess some have more free time on their hands than I.

Just my .02 cents.
My personal experience is One-shot and even some of the other case lubes can cause a stuck case when sizing. Of course this is dependent on the amount of sizing needed. I tried it on my 300 win mag and had a couple of stuck cases. Threw the can away.
The other night I decided to load some 270 win for my 50 year old ADL. some of the brass was fired from another rifle. I used Imperial lube, things were going good, until I thought I had too much lube on one case. I wiped most of it off, and sure enough, the case stuck!
I mostly load 6mm br, 243, 223, and 6.5 Grendel. Minimum sizing and either Dillon or Landolin/alcohol case lube. No issues. I’ve been cleaning lube off with microfiber and KG gun scrubber. Expensive, and stinks! I have several cans of Sprayway glass cleaned, used it many times for washing my hands for lunch! Will be giving it a try. Thanks for the tip!
 
I'll say one of my favorite sayings from my Dad " don't sweat the small stuff ".
I'll give the glass cleaner a try. Thanks Bradley for the tip.
Like Rabbitslayer said, I worked 34 years in powerhouses. As an operator, switchman, and mechanic. Been around all kinds of chemicals.
One of the older Controllers had a saying. A storm would come through, outages everywhere, or equipment failure. High stress situation and he would say, “ rule 1- don’t sweat the small stuff. Rule 2- it’s all small stuff!” Then he would calmly prioritize the steps needed and implement them. Great guy!
 
Wife had some already. She thinks she got it from Walmart. Worked great. Old dog learned a new trick. Thanks againView attachment 1543093
I found it at Home Depot. I was there for plumbing stuff and walked past a pallet of cans on display. Took me a minute to remember where I heard of it and why. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Double P.S
I forgot to wear triple gloves and a spacesuit with pressurized oxygen so I may expire soon
Wayne
Wayne, it sounds like you have cows, so you may end up riding to heaven on a cloud of methane from lighting your cigar in the barn. A lot more humane than solvent poisoning.
I have used about every case lube there is. At present I'm using Creedmoor Brass Wax. Works as well as Imperial and wipes clean with and old hand towel BOOM.
 
Wayne, it sounds like you have cows, so you may end up riding to heaven on a cloud of methane from lighting your cigar in the barn. A lot more humane than solvent poisoning.
I have used about every case lube there is. At present I'm using Creedmoor Brass Wax. Works as well as Imperial and wipes clean with and old hand towel BOOM.
I’ll have to give both ideas a try my friend,… Thank you.

P.SSSS
Where do you get the creedmoor wax, I’ll try it.
Wayne
 
Started off n a machine shop at age 12 or so, had guns since 12 or so, been casting bullets for 35+ yrs, I have no idea what chems I've been exposed to over the years, been lots of them. Plenty of times when I forgot or didn't have hearing or eye protection, paying somewhat for that now on the hearing side, but, it's OK still. Made it to 69 now, few instances where I questioned that possibility, figure I'm doing just fine at this point. I go by if it smells bad, don't breath it, blame friends for my room clearing farts, if it burns, or gives slivers, use gloves, still have all my fingers and toes.
Always just used plain paper towel to wipe off RCBS and Imperial lube, along with dry neck lube, and like doing cases by hand to inspect them, never had a stuck case. No special desire to try using chems to remove that stuff, if I did, probably use a gun cleaner rather than go to garage to get/use chems, especially in winter.
 
Started off n a machine shop at age 12 or so, had guns since 12 or so, been casting bullets for 35+ yrs, I have no idea what chems I've been exposed to over the years, been lots of them. Plenty of times when I forgot or didn't have hearing or eye protection, paying somewhat for that now on the hearing side, but, it's OK still. Made it to 69 now, few instances where I questioned that possibility, figure I'm doing just fine at this point. I go by if it smells bad, don't breath it, blame friends for my room clearing farts, if it burns, or gives slivers, use gloves, still have all my fingers and toes.
Always just used plain paper towel to wipe off RCBS and Imperial lube, along with dry neck lube, and like doing cases by hand to inspect them, never had a stuck case. No special desire to try using chems to remove that stuff, if I did, probably use a gun cleaner rather than go to garage to get/use chems, especially in winter.
I too have tempted fate. My after school job when I was 14-15 was sweeping floors and cleaning parts in an olg gas station garage. Carbon tet sure, no problem. I'd be up toy elbows in a big washtub full of gasoline for hours at a time with a wire brush. Then there was always some excitement when the older kid who worked there would walk by and flip a lit cigarette in the tub. All it ever did was fizz, bubble and go out!
I made it to 80 but things are catching up.
Sorry to go off subject. I think the reason I never have complaints about case lube is that I have always used nickel plated brass. Sometimes I wonder if I even need every case lubed, but I'm not going to tempt fate THAT far haha.
 
I hate cleaning lube off cases after sizing. Most of my dies have sizing buttons so I lube inside the necks too. I bought a second drum for my F.A.R.T. that I tumble greasy cases with just lemishine & dawn without pin's. A short run & with no pin separation, super easy operation. I spread cases out on a towel in the Texas sun & they dry faster than a cat swatting a junebug.
 
Trying to stay on the topic. The gentleman that produces wipe out patch out makes a case lube made from all organic products, completely safe to touch, and breathe. He had good friends that were smith's, always working and using available chemicals at the time. Seemed several passing away from cancer . He started looking for alternatives. Years I worked aircraft always using Ketones, & other chemicals,. guess I've been lucky.!

Product works well, no stuck cases, use a paper towel if you want, no need to purchase something else.
Not trying to promote for him, just suggesting an option.

Have a great day.!
 
This is just advice!!! Take it or leave it!!

With my 40+ years of being a precision reloader, I have tried all types of case lubes and end up throwing them all away and going back to high pressure case lube!!! Most paste wax lubes and some spray lubes use wool oils or wool wax!!! Almost all mammal oils and fats contain Stearic Acid!!! This acid is more acidic than petroleum based pressure oils!!!

Rubbing wax or pastes onto cases is a big waste of time at the bench!! Plus, it involves more time to remove it!!! Sprays cost more with the wasted overspray!!

The secret to using high pressure lubes is feeling the difference in torque of the press handle movement, both up and down in the sizing process!! Apply 2 or 3 drops of oil onto 1/2 of the width of the lube pad and quickly, but lightly, trowel the oil over that half of the pad's surface with a plastic coated playing card!!! Using a 5/8" thick strip of wood butted up to side of the lubes half of pad, will allow lubing of the upper third of the neck and body of the case!!! Take 5 dry cases, lube the cases and then, take each case and lightly scrap the mouth of the case on the pad while rotating the case!! This will lube the inside of the neck right at the mouth of the case!! Size those cases to lube the die and expander!!! Size dry case until slightly more resistance in press handle movement in either direction!! Any resistance requires 2 more lubed cases to relube the die and expander!!

I'm still on my 1st, 40+ year old, $2.00 bottle of Bonanza HP lube with over 15000 cases being sized!! Around 80% were small cases!!! 223 and 22-250!!

The picture below shows how much I have left of that case lube bottle!!!

Degreasing operations are conducted in the garage or outside!!!
Now, we get into my field of engineering profession!!!! Solvents and oil viscosity!! The higher the viscosity, the more work required to degrease!!! Light oils, such as the HP oils only require immersion and possible agitation in the right type of solvents while heavier viscosity oils (gear box lube, grease, pastes, or waxes) requires physical scrubbing and solvents!!! I use old modified plastic stadium beverage cups and place upside down cases standing up in the cup with holes drilled in the bottom and sides of the cup!!! The cup with the cases is immersed in a half gallon container with enough acetone to more than cover the cases!!! Give the cup a few twists after letting the cases soak for 5 minutes!! Let them soak for another 5!! A few more twist and remove the cases!! Scatter the cases onto a towel laying inside a tray!! Move the cases outside and let the sun totally evaporate the acetone!!! The cases are now degrease both inside and out!!!

BILL
 

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This is just advice!!! That it or leave it!!

With my 40+ years of being a precision reloader, I have tried all types of case lubes and end up throwing them all away and going back to the original bottle of high pressure oil I bought over 40 years ago!!! Most paste wax lubes and some spray lubes use wool oils or wool wax!!! Almost all mammal oils and fats contain Stearic Acid!!! This acid is more acidic than petroleum based pressure oils!!! I check chemical and physical properties of fluids used in my home and in my former company's facility!!!

Rubbing wax or pastes onto cases is a big waste of time at the bench!! Plus, it involves more time to remove it!!! Sprays cost more with the wasted overspray!!

The secret to using high pressure lubes is feeling the difference in torque of the press handle movement, both up and down!! Apply 2 or 3 drops of oil onto 1/2 of the width of the lube pad and quickly, but lightly, trowel the oil over the pad surface with a plastic coated play card!!! Using a 5/8" thick strip of wood butted up to pad, will allow lubing of the upper third of the neck and body of the case!!! Take 5 dry cases, lube the case and then, take each case and lightly scrap the neck on the pad while rotating the case!! This will lube the inside of the mouth of the case!! Size those cases to lube the die and expander!!! Size dry case until slightly more resistance in press handle movement in either direction!! Any resistance requires 2 more lubed cases to relube the die and expander!!

I'm still on my 1st bottle of Bonanza HP lube with over 15000 cases being sized!! Around 80% were same cases!!! 223 and 22-250!!

The picture below shows how much I have left of that $2.00 bottle!!!

Degreasing operation are conducted in the garage or outside!!!
Now, we get into my field of engineering profession!!!! Solvents and oil viscosity!! The higher the viscosity, the more work required to degrease!!! Light oils, such as the HP oils only require immersion and possible agitation in the right type of solvents while heavier viscosity oils (grease, pastes, or waxes) requires physical scrubbing and solvents!!! I use old modified plastic stadium beverage cups and place upside down cases standing up in the cup with holes drilled in the bottom and sides of the cup!!! The cup with the cases is immersed in a half gallon container with enough acetone to more than cover the cases!!! Give the cup a few twists after letting the cases soak for 5 minutes!! Let them soak for another 5!! A few more twist and remove the cases!! Scatter the cases onto a towel laying inside a tray!! Move the cases outside and let the sun total evaporate the acetone!!! The cases are now degrease both inside and out!!!
That sounds like wayyyyyy too much work!… and I don’t want any lube at all on my shoulders however you have a nice old 304 I see!… I have one as well…. Cool old scales
Wayne
 

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