A little reloading trick from me

[urbanrifleman]

Here is a suggestion from me.

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when loading on the single stage press there's really only need for Redding or Hornady resizing wax. I get my fingers kind of greasy and just rub the case and go.

Most of the time I don't clean my cases in the stainless media unless they've been shot a whole bunch. But I always need a convenient way to wipe the wax off after reloading.

I've tried all different kinds of stuff to get rid of the wax. Here is the best stuff. Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has no ammonia and is alcohol-based and makes quick work of the wax and leaves the cases squeaky clean. You can even put them away slightly wet and they will dry very quickly.



I buy it from Amazon. I hope this helps. Happy Resurrection Day!



Bradley.

 

[HTSmith]

Thanks much! The acetone on a rag I've been using is hard on my hands and expensive.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Thanks much! The acetone on a rag I've been using is hard on my hands and expensive.

That would be!

 

[quest450]

I wouldn't want any of the overspray to get into my necks, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol on a towel to wipe off Imperial die wax, and it's less filling and tastes great

 

[Mark W]

I lay mine out on a microfiber rag as they are sized and then I spritz them with isopropyl alcohol and use another dry microfiber rag to roll them around.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I wouldn't want any of the overspray to get into my necks, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol on a towel to wipe off Imperial die wax, and it's less filling and tastes great

I don't spray them. I just wet the rag and wipe each one.

Even if the overspray did get into your necks it's alcohol-based and it dries very quickly.

 

[K22]

I have yet to find a product that does a better job than Sizing Wax (I use Imperial), at least for me. I get fairly uniform sizing using this product plus employing a consistent dwell time in the sizing die even though I don't anneal. A can small can of wax lasts me several thousand rounds which is another huge benefit plus it takes up hardly any storage space.

I've been using Scott Rags with a light coating of Mineral Spirits to remove the wax, but I am going to give your suggestion a try since I like the spray application feature in applying it to the cloth. It's really important to remove all of the wax and since I don't use a tumbler anymore, this suggested has much value to me. Thanks.

 

[nakneker]

Happy Easter, nice tip!

 

[jimmymac]

I lay mine out on a microfiber rag as they are sized and then I spritz them with isopropyl alcohol and use another dry microfiber rag to roll them around.

I do similar. I use an old towel and spray it down really well with 99% isopropyl or even a shot of brake cleaner. I'll dump 10 or 12 cases at a time on the towel, double it over to make a brass sandwich and roll them around. Fast, easy and effective.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I keep a can of it right there anyway on a step ladder to keep my wife’s car windows clean. I’ll give it a shot, although just wiping the cases off with a towel has seemed sufficient.

 

[bozo699]

Bradley,
That’s my favorite glass cleaner, I have it in all my vehicles and shop n house, never thought about it to remove my sizing wax!…. I can’t wait to try it…… thank you
Wayne

 

[Webster]

Thanks much! The acetone on a rag I've been using is hard on my hands and expensive.

Acetone is considered hazaedous. You shouldn't get it on your habds or breathe the fumes.

I don't spray them. I just wet the rag and wipe each one.

Even if the overspray did get into your necks it's alcohol-based and it dries very quickly.

Do you mean you don't lube the necks or shoulders?

 

[Brians356]

Thanks much! The acetone on a rag I've been using is hard on my hands and expensive.

And smelly.
-

 

[Hal]

Some of the Napa stores sell if you just want to try a can.
They also sell Freeall . FA 12 is the Napa code.

Hal

 

[urbanrifleman]

Acetone is considered hazaedous. You shouldn't get it on your habds or breathe the fumes.

Do you mean you don't lube the necks or shoulders?

No. I'm saying I spray that glass cleaner on the rag and wipe off the cases. I don't spray the cases.

And Sprayway is ALCOHOL BASED. So, if some were to get in the neck it dries.

 

[Webster]

Here is a suggestion from me.

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when loading on the single stage press there's really only need for Redding or Hornady resizing wax. I get my fingers kind of greasy and just rub the case and go.

Most of the time I don't clean my cases in the stainless media unless they've been shot a whole bunch. But I always need a convenient way to wipe the wax off after reloading.

I've tried all different kinds of stuff to get rid of the wax. Here is the best stuff. Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has no ammonia and is alcohol-based and makes quick work of the wax and leaves the cases squeaky clean. You can even put them away slightly wet and they will dry very quickly.

View attachment 1541961View attachment 1541962

I buy it from Amazon. I hope this helps. Happy Resurrection Day!



Bradley.

I lube with a light vis synthetic oi roll 5 at a time on a pad. Wipe clean with a paper towel. I only do 50 at a time. No exposure to alcohol or solvents. Acetone is considered dangerous. Lube bolt lugs with Mobil 1 EP grease. Any auto parts store. Never checked the MSDS on the oil. I worked for a chemical co. and we had to use all solvents in a hood. We could wash small parts in a beaker with a few solvents that we put a lid on. EPA is very strict on all solvents. Used engine oil is onsidered a possible carcinogen.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I lube with a light vis synthetic oi roll 5 at a time on a pad. Wipe clean with a paper towel. I only do 50 at a time. No exposure to alcohol or solvents. Acetone is considered dangerous. Lube bolt lugs with Mobil 1 EP grease. Any auto parts store. Never checked the MSDS on the oil. I worked for a chemical co. and we had to use all solvents in a hood. We could wash small parts in a beaker with a few solvents that we put a lid on. EPA is very strict on all solvents. Used engine oil is onsidered a possible carcinogen.

It's glass cleaner.

I think it's pretty safe.

 

[bozo699]

Acetone is considered hazaedous. You shouldn't get it on your habds or breathe the fumes.

Do you mean you don't lube the necks or shoulders?

I don’t know about others but I never lube the shoulders, if I accidentally get some on the shoulder I wipe it off!…. Everything in your loading room is hazardous,…. I don’t use acetone but I’m not scared to use it. I see men using gloves , they must have feminine hands and are scared the lube will discolor them, I use gloves for stretching barb wire
Wayne

 

[David Milisock]

Here is a suggestion from me.

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when loading on the single stage press there's really only need for Redding or Hornady resizing wax. I get my fingers kind of greasy and just rub the case and go.

Most of the time I don't clean my cases in the stainless media unless they've been shot a whole bunch. But I always need a convenient way to wipe the wax off after reloading.

I've tried all different kinds of stuff to get rid of the wax. Here is the best stuff. Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has no ammonia and is alcohol-based and makes quick work of the wax and leaves the cases squeaky clean. You can even put them away slightly wet and they will dry very quickly.

View attachment 1541961View attachment 1541962

I buy it from Amazon. I hope this helps. Happy Resurrection Day!



Bradley.

It makes sense to me!

 

[ggshoots]

Thank you, I will try the glass cleaner. I actually like to use a sock so will spray the inside real well. I then drop a bunch of brass inside and rub between my hands for 30 sec to a minute and dump. Works great and can do quite a bit at a time.

Have a Blessed Easter!

Oh yes, don't forget to put your sock back on.