A little reloading trick from me

[bozo699]

Thank you, I will try the glass cleaner. I actually like to use a sock so will spray the inside real well. I then drop a bunch of brass inside and rub between my hands for 30 sec to a minute and dump. Works great and can do quite a bit at a time.

Have a Blessed Easter!

Oh yes, don't forget to put your sock back on.

I’ve always just used a towel to wipe the imperial off but I’m going to try The glass cleaner then implement the sock, that sounds like a good idea!… I’ll have to buy a pair as I only use wool socks , besides being expensive I doubt they would clean well
Wayne

 

[Webster]

It's glass cleaner.

I think it's pretty safe.

It's relatively safe but repeated exposure isn't good. Yes, I think the EPA and OSHA go to extremes but there is a reason for it. It's probably the safest solvent if you have to use something.

At the range I have seen guys use the latex gloves so they don't get cleaning solvent on their hands. Latex gloves are for food handling only. Purple nitrile gloves are the only ones that are considered solvent resistant.

Iso propyl alcohol MSDS.

https://rsc.aux.eng.ufl.edu/_files/msds/2/Isopropyl%20Alcohol.pdf

Synthetic hyraulic oil MSDS. Looks like it's very safe. For lubing cases.

https://cglapps.chevron.com/sdspds/SDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=452496&docFormat=PDF

 

[rebs]

Here is a suggestion from me.

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when loading on the single stage press there's really only need for Redding or Hornady resizing wax. I get my fingers kind of greasy and just rub the case and go.

Most of the time I don't clean my cases in the stainless media unless they've been shot a whole bunch. But I always need a convenient way to wipe the wax off after reloading.

I've tried all different kinds of stuff to get rid of the wax. Here is the best stuff. Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has no ammonia and is alcohol-based and makes quick work of the wax and leaves the cases squeaky clean. You can even put them away slightly wet and they will dry very quickly.

View attachment 1541961View attachment 1541962

I buy it from Amazon. I hope this helps. Happy Resurrection Day!



Bradley.

Thank you for the tip. I am going to order the glass cleaner

 

[urbanrifleman]

Thank you, I will try the glass cleaner. I actually like to use a sock so will spray the inside real well. I then drop a bunch of brass inside and rub between my hands for 30 sec to a minute and dump. Works great and can do quite a bit at a time.

Have a Blessed Easter!

Oh yes, don't forget to put your sock back on.

That is a good idea.

 

[Shooter13]

Bradley,
That’s my favorite glass cleaner, I have it in all my vehicles and shop n house, never thought about it to remove my sizing wax!…. I can’t wait to try it…… thank you
Wayne

Ours too!

 

[urbanrifleman]

Bradley,
That’s my favorite glass cleaner, I have it in all my vehicles and shop n house, never thought about it to remove my sizing wax!…. I can’t wait to try it…… thank you
Wayne

Sprayway Glass Cleaner works great on carpet stains too.

 

[Krogen]

I'm in! I placed an order for some Sprayway. Lube removal has always been a pain. Anything that might reduce the pain is on my RADAR. Thanks for the tip, Brad!

 

[wildcatter]

Acetone is considered hazaedous. You shouldn't get it on your habds or breathe the fumes.

Do you mean you don't lube the necks or shoulders?

You don't have to breath it to be hazardous. Same for brake cleaner, the dangerous chemical in both can be absorbed thru the skin.

I just use a clean micro fiber cloth, one at a time is slow, but works. Use to use imperial, but never again, this is better, and smells good, and so safe you could eat it. I don't recamend this but it's the best lube I've found! Used just like Imperial, a little goes a long way, and easier to cleanup.

Royal Case & Die Lube

Royal Case & Die Lube from Sharp Shoot R products is an extremely high lubricity case sizing lubricant which leaves no tacky residue and wipes off very easily.

www.pmatool.com

Gonna try this window cleaner on my wiping cloth. Maybe try it like Jimmy, do several at a time?

 

[Sumtoc]

Also the preferred cleaner for stained glass doors and panels. Doesn't attack or corrode lead or zinc lines and frames.......

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

i just tumble in rice afterwards, easy enough

 

[Bronsin]

Thanks much! The acetone on a rag I've been using is hard on my hands and expensive.

Nail polish remover. A quart is like 2 bucks.

 

[Tangent]

Having previously worked in an industry testing chemicals, I use nitrile gloves for some jobs these days. Combustion products are usually hazardous and some chemicals can be absorbed through the skin when dissolved in solvents. It may not get you today or tomorrow but better to reduce your exposure to carcinogens and mutagens if you can.

 

[Webster]

Nail polish remover. A quart is like 2 bucks.

The most common solvent in nail polish and polish remover is acetone. A bad news solvent.

 

[Evan]

At the range I have seen guys use the latex gloves so they don't get cleaning solvent on their hands. Latex gloves are for food handling only. Purple nitrile gloves are the only ones that are considered solvent resistant.

That’s an over generalization that isn’t true. There are comparability charts that everyone should review to chose the right glove for the process. For example, latex is good for acetone. Nitrile is not. Latex is good for isopropanol but nitrile is rated only for limited exposure. Nitrile is good for mineral spirits and latex is not.

More importantly, cheap gloves have holes. If you’re serious about protecting yourself, buy rated gloves.

 

[Straightshooter1]

i just tumble in rice afterwards, easy enough

Ditto

The rice does a good job of absorbing my Imperial sizing wax an cleans out some of the inside of the case and augmenting the reduction of neck interference.

 

[Edd]

I use hot water and soap. Sometimes I slosh them around in acetone first then use soap and hot water to wash the acetone off of them.

 

[Dave M.]

Here is a suggestion from me.

Over the years I've come to the conclusion that when loading on the single stage press there's really only need for Redding or Hornady resizing wax. I get my fingers kind of greasy and just rub the case and go.

Most of the time I don't clean my cases in the stainless media unless they've been shot a whole bunch. But I always need a convenient way to wipe the wax off after reloading.

I've tried all different kinds of stuff to get rid of the wax. Here is the best stuff. Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It has no ammonia and is alcohol-based and makes quick work of the wax and leaves the cases squeaky clean. You can even put them away slightly wet and they will dry very quickly.

View attachment 1541961View attachment 1541962

I buy it from Amazon. I hope this helps. Happy Resurrection Day!



Bradley.

Personally, I use Hornady one shot and don’t use a ton of it. After sizing, I have quickly wiped them with a little alcohol on a microfiber towel, and I have actually won more and scored better when I don’t even touch the one shot on the cases. They shoot great and never had an issue.

 

[bozo699]

That’s an over generalization that isn’t true. There are comparability charts that everyone should review to chose the right glove for the process. For example, latex is good for acetone. Nitrile is not. Latex is good for isopropanol but nitrile is rated only for limited exposure. Nitrile is good for mineral spirits and latex is not.

More importantly, cheap gloves have holes. If you’re serious about protecting yourself, buy rated gloves.

You’re correct,…. I prefer elk hide gloves for heavy duty work like building fence, handling wind shook red fir, I weld with no gloves but have them handy if I have to pickup hot metal everything else God gave me thick skin, when I get to greasy I wash them with gasoline or parts solvent and continue on
Wayne

 

[RCE1]

Thanks much! The acetone on a rag I've been using is hard on my hands and expensive.

Acetone is too volatile for the purpose, IMHO. Mineral spirits, on the other hand, works fine. Very little is needed. Just barely damp on a rag. Mostly, I use the lanolin and iso spay lube and it just wipes off. No solvent necessary.

 

[Bullzeye]

Best glass cleaner I've used, and it use to be the 'cheap' brand on the shelf.