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9X Fired Brass, 200 Yards Results - No Mandrel, No Annealing, No Neck Turning, No Tumbeling. Updated MOA

If you would have been annealing the group would be half!
I have to respectfully disagree. I'm a believer in annealing and do it after every firing. But the benefits won't show up at that range. If he had a chronograph there...that's where we'd see the lack of annealing and inconsistent neck tension. I bet the ES/SD would be subpar at best and the round wouldn’t translate well beyond 600 yards.
 
What targets do you reccomend? I've always used these.
That was some really good shooting Mr. Wick - does it really matter that a "better" target will measure more precisely. Personally, I look at the "big picture" and it looks pretty good to me. I wouldn't get hung up on details like targets. The bottom line is that the shooter / firearm / load as a system produced some fine shooting results. I wouldn't change anything, but that's just my personal opinion.
 
Oftentimes, circumstances and events dictate change. I didn't start annealing until I had to, as a result of extremely variable bullet seating force and depth.

Same here. Annealing started for me when I was getting wild variations in neck tensions on the same boxes of .308 Lapua brass after just a few firings.

I still do we tumble though because I like working with clean brass.
 
What targets do you reccomend? I've always used these.
Mr. Wick - the reason you shot so well besides being an excellent marksman and having adequate reloads might be that your target did not have those diamond shaped bullseyes and / or Birchwood casing black dots in the center of an orange dot. It may be that you were focusing on the reticle, as you should be, and not the target.

I often see guys at the range puzzled by the fact that they shoot tighter groups at 200 yards at steel plates than high quality paper sight in targets with precise aiming points at 100 yards. The reason quite simply is that at 200 yards they are focused on the reticle. Something to chew on.
 
I agree, the paper sucks. But if anything, shot 5 needs to move closer in. I still think that's a 1/2 in group.
Just heavier paper will help. Turn that over, push the peddles down, Scotch tape the peddles in place. It will look a lot better when you turn it back over.
 
What targets do you reccomend? I've always used these.
See if this file is helpful—a PDF and I can send a PowerPoint by email. I print on 8.5x11 neon yellow cardstock from Amazon: 125 Bright Neon Yellow Fluorescent Color Cardstock - 8.5" X 11" (8.5X11 Inches) Standard Letter|Flyer Size - 65# lb/Pound Light Card Weight Cover Paper - Quality Printable Smooth Surface Sheets https://a.co/d/gtxtR7t
 

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5 shot group - .671" - .334 MOA
I don't know how you got this.
Assuming your widest outside is .671 and hole cut was .264, then precision would be 0.194moa.
But the holes likely do not cut at .264".
So shoot/find a clean hole somewhere on the paper taype and determine hole size to subtract.
 
I don't know how you got this.
Assuming your widest outside is .671 and hole cut was .264, then precision would be 0.194moa.
But the holes likely do not cut at .264".
So shoot/find a clean hole somewhere on the paper taype and determine hole size to subtract.
Looks like I did the math incorrectly.

Extreme Spread Multiplied by 100 - (.671 X 100 = 67.1)

Subtract the Caliber of the Bullet - 67.1 - .264 = 66.836

Divide by Target Distance - (66.836 ÷ 200 = .227)

MOA = .334
 
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