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6br ejection help

gambleone

Silver $$ Contributor
Was out shooting today and began feeling tight spot on extraction. This is a Rem 700.
When I got home & started to deprime I bumped shoulder back as usual, only 1-2 th.
Then put case in & went to close bolt & felt hard very tight spot at the time when
firing spring is compressing. Looks like about 3 grab marks running diagonal along
the rim. Had this rifle about 8 yrs. Only thing that was done was I sent it to have the
bolt bushed by Greg Tannel about 5 yrs ago. Any ideas?
 

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Bolt operates hard on closing = shoulder needs to be set back.
Bolt opens hard on extraction (usually with click at top of bolt lift) = back end of case too large due to over-pressure, or used brass from another chamber.
You said bumped shoulder as usual.....does that mean you never change your die setting? Brass cases workharden at different rates, so you should be measuring actual bump in addition to chambering every one (preferably without the mainspring) and may have to tweak the die adjustment a tad. Die shims come in handy for this.
 
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Guess i should have explained the as usual. I do measure & change the die setting each
time i bump. Thanks for your help.
 
Guess i should have explained the as usual. I do measure & change the die setting each
time i bump. Thanks for your help.

Don’t understand the need to change the die setting each time you reload. If you determine the head to shoulder distance with a gauge you have a number you would ideally like after resizing every case. If the case is shorter than this distance I wouldn’t change the die setting, you want it to grow a little longer. If the case is longer than you want my guess is that your standard die setting would bump the shoulder? Does the longer case chamber easily? If it chambers easily I would not change the die. The shoulder should not work hardening very much.

The only reason I say this is because I have been reloading for accurate varmint rifles for 45 years without a bump gauge and I find I can leave the die setting unchanged for years and get good case life and easy to chamber rounds. Just got a gauge this year. I never shot hot loads. If the head area of the case is getting bigger FL resizing would usually take care of it. Increasing the bump means lowering the die and the tapered case body goes farther into the body taper of the die. You cannot separate how much the case enters the die and the bump distance, they are inter related.

Bumping 1-2 thou may mean you are not FL resizing the body? If you screw the die down more to get a true FL size you may bump too much?
 
Don’t understand the need to change the die setting each time you reload. If you determine the head to shoulder distance with a gauge you have a number you would ideally like after resizing every case. If the case is shorter than this distance I wouldn’t change the die setting, you want it to grow a little longer. If the case is longer than you want my guess is that your standard die setting would bump the shoulder? Does the longer case chamber easily? If it chambers easily I would not change the die. The shoulder should not work hardening very much.

The only reason I say this is because I have been reloading for accurate varmint rifles for 45 years without a bump gauge and I find I can leave the die setting unchanged for years and get good case life and easy to chamber rounds. Just got a gauge this year. I never shot hot loads. If the head area of the case is getting bigger FL resizing would usually take care of it. Increasing the bump means lowering the die and the tapered case body goes farther into the body taper of the die. You cannot separate how much the case enters the die and the bump distance, they are inter related.

Bumping 1-2 thou may mean you are not FL resizing the body? If you screw the die down more to get a true FL size you may bump too much?

Only bump when its needed. Bumping not the problem here. My issue was marks on the case rim.
After taking bolt out & cleaning, it looks like an extractor problem. Appears the one edge of the extractor was bent out just enough to catch on case rim as bolt was rotated. Sent for another extractor.
Thanks to all for your help.
Greg
 
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If it's a factory extractor the marks come from the slicing action of the extractor over the rim as the bolt is rotated on closing.
 
If it's a factory extractor the marks come from the slicing action of the extractor over the rim as the bolt is rotated on closing.

I have an older Rem 700. I would count the extractor marks on the rim to determine how many times the case was fired. I have a newer Rem 700 that doesn't leave distinct marks.
 

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