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6 dasher reamer help?

Still haven't pulled the trigger on the reamer yet. After speaking to many people and coming up with what I think is a good design, I am going to send brass / dummy to the reamer manufacturer and check what I currently have working well and then adjust my final design based on the combination of information.

I'm not trying to Hog your post. Just curious as to how also to end up with a final dimensions for the 6 Dasher reamer. Hopefully your not offended by my questions?
 
I have searched the forums and I am still confused on the reamer I want for a 6 Dasher.
Shooting Alpha and Lapua Brass (both .2675 neck on loaded round) with berger 105 Hybrid.
They seem to run well in a range of anywhere from 10 - 30 off the lands currently
I think I have settled on a .2705 neck, .2433 free-bore diameter.
My confusion is in case length and throat / lead length and lead angle.
I see case lengths of 1.555 and 1.570 on a number of prints. All my cases would chamber in 1.555 without issue.
Does the maximum case length effect the free-bore length needed?
Would a 2 degree angle have any benefit over a 1.5?
First reamer I have bought and confusion abounds.
Leaning towards JGS due to the feedback I have received from others. I know I can send them a dummy round to work from, but just trying to figure out what I would be looking at when they send me back a print that I wouldn't understand.

So my understanding is that 6 Dasher Alpha brass has a .014" thickness of the neck. Which if you x's 2 with the bullet ,.243", comes out to be .271" loaded round. So your measurement of going with a .2705"nk reamer would mean that you would have to turn the necks on the Alpha brass.
 
So would those dimensions work with bullets from 105gr - 115gr ? Or would it have to be narrowed down more to something like 108gr only ?
I haven't done much with the 108. If you plan on the Hybrids with that chamber and FB, the heel of the bullet will be close to being in where the die stops sizing. I like to keep it above that area. Will it function, most likely. How I do it, I like to make the FB fit the bullet where I have it in the case. UNI throater are quite handy. Not sure what I'd do without one...
 
I'm not trying to Hog your post. Just curious as to how also to end up with a final dimensions for the 6 Dasher reamer. Hopefully your not offended by my questions?
Not offended at all. Lots of good information here, but I also ended up with a lot of questions still unanswered after all my research. After getting a lot of answers to my questions from other shooters, reading all the threads, speaking with a couple of smiths and the reamer manufacturer I plan to use, I have found the best course of action for me is to send some samples to the reamer manufacturer and then discus what I want based on both what I have currently and what I now know that I didn't before.
There is no magic reamer. Just like everything else in this game, everyone has an opinion and theirs is always right because it works for them. At some point, just like everything else we do, you just have to make a decision and see if it works out. I am getting closer to that point.
If I make the wrong decision, I will either have it reground, or will have a very slightly used reamer for sale.
 
My bench 1000yd BR guns both light and heavy have a.266Nk, .155FB. The FB is well suited for 103-107gr Bullets. With this combination the pressure ring on the bullet never gets close to the neck/shoulder junction. I size only 2/3 of the neck leaving 1/3 unsized to help center the case in the chamber. When the FB grows, it’s time for a setback.
 
Not offended at all. Lots of good information here, but I also ended up with a lot of questions still unanswered after all my research. After getting a lot of answers to my questions from other shooters, reading all the threads, speaking with a couple of smiths and the reamer manufacturer I plan to use, I have found the best course of action for me is to send some samples to the reamer manufacturer and then discus what I want based on both what I have currently and what I now know that I didn't before.
There is no magic reamer. Just like everything else in this game, everyone has an opinion and theirs is always right because it works for them. At some point, just like everything else we do, you just have to make a decision and see if it works out. I am getting closer to that point.
If I make the wrong decision, I will either have it reground, or will have a very slightly used reamer for sale.

I appreciate your response and hopefully we make the right decisions on reamers. That way there isn't 2 for sale. I'm pretty sure that what ever dimensions we go with came be easily worked around with a Harrells die. Good luck
 
What an education this process has been. I want to thank all of those that either responded to this thread or reached out to me via private message for all of your help. I have gained a lot of knowledge from this exercise and now know more about why I have made the decisions that I have at the very least.
After speaking with a number of you on this forum, sending a dummy round to the reamer manufacturer, and a lot of thought about my particular loads, I have decided on the following for those of you who may have interest. 1.555 Case Length, .272 Neck, .2438 bore, .134 Lead, .4720 @.200 Line.
Now to chamber a barrel and see if I am happy with it. Time will tell.
 
On a 1.555 long chamber, the FB you mention is way too short for the Hybrids, like 40 thou short, IMHO. I've been running the same 1.555" chamber for years. My henriksen reamer is a .136" freebore and is too short for the hybrid. I lengthen in a separate operation using a unithroater. If you were to order a reamer with freebore to run hybrids...i will take a guess that .145"-.155" will be good. Other bullets out there, the .105" might be good. Bart Hammers come to mind...

Tip of the day...match your freebore to your intended bullet. This is why many LR shooters have many reamers, lol
Are you saying that the freebore that is good for 105 Hybrid's is or is not good for Bart's Hammer's or Gungnir's? Thanks

Ed
 
The gungirs might be good, but too long for the hammers. I'm sure you can possibly get them to shoot, but best to match freebore to your bullet. And on top of that to add confusion, your overall chamber length needs to be taken into consideration because it will affect where your bullet is seated in relation to touch lands. In simple terms if two reamers has same freebore of .150 and different chamber lenghts, the measured OAL of a seated bullet to just touching the lands will be different. FB is misunderstood by many...
 
The gungirs might be good, but too long for the hammers. I'm sure you can possibly get them to shoot, but best to match freebore to your bullet. And on top of that to add confusion, your overall chamber length needs to be taken into consideration because it will affect where your bullet is seated in relation to touch lands. In simple terms if two reamers has same freebore of .150 and different chamber lenghts, the measured OAL of a seated bullet to just touching the lands will be different. FB is misunderstood by many...
Seems to be for sure
 

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