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38 Smith and Wesson

HVFDFIREFIGHTER

I good friend recently gave me a .38 Smith and Wesson. It is in excellent condition. I can not find ammo anywhere so I purchased Lee carbide dies, Star Line casings, and Federal pistol match primers. Thanks to mattsbullets, I found 145 grain lead bullets. (I got some that are #12 Brinell and some #12 Brinell with HiTek coating)


MY PROBLEM
For 38 S&W, my book only lists HP38 and WIN231 for powders. I can not find those. I had some in my cart at midwayusa, by the time I went to purchase it, it was out of stock.

Did an internet search. Heard Accurate #2 and # 5 would work. Cant find those.
Went back to my book, it lists CFE Pistol and Titgroup for 38 super (maybe it was long colt, I can't remember off the top of my head this morning). Luckily, my local dealer had those in stock. I picked up one of each. Now I need to work up a load. Any suggestions?
 
Glad you were able to find enough components to start load development, at this time. For the past 40 years, I have been shooting the load that the fellow I bought my pistol from. I shoot 38 Specials from a 357 pistol. My 38 load is 3.0 of Bullseye with a 158 grain SWC bullet, and a Federal primer. For me a pistol is something I shoot while my rifle barrel is cooling. Bought a rest and my targets look a heck of a lot better. Never fed my gun a steady diet of hot loads. I am cheap and would be heartbroken if my old Python get wrecked.
 
If your new revolver is a top-break of any kind, you want to be very gentle with your loads and pressure. Many of those little pea shooters were actually from the black powder era, and many are also not in very good shape.

If it's a S&W Victory model, or any other full frame version, you're probably good for that data from the Speer manual.

MD Smith reloading site has data for top-break pistols that keeps pressure in the lower realm. jd
 
Break top pistols has been kind of a thing for me. I've got a few that are in great mechanical condition, and I shoot them often.

Is yours an H&R, or---??

Mine are Smiths, and they are my favorite. They just seem to be the best in quality. Since yours is stamped with the 1909 patent date, we can assume it is at least later than that, and that is a good thing. The older ones that were used with black powder, usually have the corrosion to prove it.

Check out the loads on the MD Smith site I posted, and stick to lead bullets. If you have much slop in the hinge or top latch, tighten it up a bit if possible. If things don't lock up tight, either the top latch or cylinder, sear, etc., it isn't safe. jd
 
I ordered a National Metallic Tumbler online. Backordered! So I canceled the order. I made my own.

Picked up a 1/2 inch, 9amp drill for $19.99 and 2 casters from Harbor Freight.
Already had 2 2 gallon buckets and lid, a 5/16 bolt, a hose clamp, and 2x4s.

Drilled hole in center of bucket for a bolt to the drill. I put three strips of wood in the second buckets for more tumbling action. I used a bolt to prop drill up at an angle. Hose clamp on the trigger for speed control.

Runs great but I have not tried it with brass and pins yet.
 
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