SVT_Tactical
Gold $$ Contributor
I wouldn't cut into shoulder unless you needed to. Why remove material if it's not in the way.
The theory is to help prevent donuts.I wouldn't cut into shoulder unless you needed to. Why remove material if it's not in the way.
My Henrikson does require a slight cut into the shoulder. I guess that's why they call them wildcats...no standard dimensions.My reamer specs. does not dictate cutting into the shoulders. Never had an issue with chambering Lapua or Peterson brass.
I wish they would make a 45 deg cutter for the Ackleys.This is an exaggerated example of how I do my 30BR cases. The dark ring you see at the bottom of the neck is where the external 'lump' was from the necking up process. Below that is a narrow section that's where the shoulders are intentionally pushed back .020-ish for the first firing. The blend cut into the shoulder is about twice as long as I normally set up for. This is done with a 35 degree cutter and you can see how nicely that feathers out with no 'dig in' like you can get with a 30 degree cutter. As you can see by the uniformity of the shoulder blend, the case necks are not tipped at the neck/shoulder junction. If they are, you'll get a wavy blend cut into the shoulder. There are ways around this afterward. The best approach is to minimize it from the start.
For what it's worth. -Al
![]()
If you're using their turner, PMA makes a 45 degree cutter. On my 40 degree cases (250 Savage AI and 6mm Jet), I just turn the parent case with a +5 degree cutter for the original shoulder angle prior to f-forming.I wish they would make a 45 deg cutter for the Ackleys.
I'll have to look at that 45 deg cutter. I was unaware. I have 2 PMA and a Pumpkin.If you're using their turner, PMA makes a 45 degree cutter. On my 40 degree cases (250 Savage AI and 6mm Jet), I just turn the parent case with a +5 degree cutter for the original shoulder angle prior to f-forming.
I would recommend what AlNyhus say's ^^^! Do a trial run with a few. It's what I call real life measurements!Honestly, I've never turned necks by the 'math'. I turn them until they measure what I want over the pressure ring.
This is exactly the way it should be done. Cut just enough to remove the outside donut for proper clearance. I had numerous neck detachments when I tried cutting anymore then that! Don't worry about an inside donut you'll never be seating close to it with the 30BR.When you neck it up to 30 caliber, it will have a huge donut on the outside of the neck about 3/4 of the way down the neck. That donut is where the shoulder neck junction was on the 6 BR and now stretched up the neck while expanding to the new 30 caliber. That donut must be cut off and down to the neck shoulder junction for proper clearance and to take in accordance of future brass flow at the neck shoulder junction after numerous firings.
DJ
DJ's Brass Service