223 AR, newly built, fires, will not eject?

[243winxb]

too hot. the primers are very flat.

The extract should damage the case rim on firing, if pressure is to high , leaving the brass in the chamber.

The Hodgdon website data lists 16 different powders for the Hornady 60 bullet your using. If this is a port pressure issue with this barrel, try different powders you have on hand. The size of the port is important, as is it location.

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com

 

[243winxb]

Pressure changes with different components.

When looking at other data, Hornadys loading at 22.7 grs looks light?

But a tight "match" chamber will make more pressure then some others, like 5.56.

 

[jepp2]

it seems that the standard of alignment of gas block is visual?

Don't assume the gas block needs to positioned against the shoulder of the step in the barrel. Measure the distance from the step to the start of the gas port, and the distance from the bolt side of the gas block to the start of the opening in the block. I use the depth stem on the calipers. Make a sketch if necessary. Center the gas block opening over the gas port opening.

 

[243winxb]

https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/rifle-reloading/?cartridge=7

 

[6ShotsOr5?]

yes, these are set screws, WOA block. I have other blocks, will check bbl shoulder to hole alignment with them also.
just thought I'd ask here re info & appreciated.

Measure on the gas block the distance between the gas port and one of the set screws. Then use a punch to dimple where the set screws goes. Then when you put on the gas block, line up on the dimple you made, and then install and tighten the other set screw. This is a good reason to get one that has two set screws on it.

 

[C.E.Smith043]

Hello,
Having a problem with the first AR upper I have built...using my 80% lower.

It fires, but does not eject the case. at all. Side charger.
If I rack the bolt, the fired case ejects, and strips/chambers the next round.

60g Vmax, VVN 135, 23.5g CCI 450 primers, 1X fired Norma brass, fl sized ( shot in another AR w
5.56 nato chamber) approx .002 setback.

I didn't have or try any factory 223. fwiw.

22" Krieger .223 "match" chamber" 1/7.7 - chambered by Krieger

* the tube is centered in the gas key - does not bind
* rifle length gas, melonited gas tube
* gas block installed by me - think it is from WOA. good fit .750" as I recall, not pinned, I clamped
to bbl using allen screws supplied
* JP bolt, A Arms upper /side charger, AA carrier


I tried this same load in another 223 1/8 upper, with the same lower - perfect function.

In looking at the Krieger chamber, it looks well, rough, compared to the other AR.
Could this be the problem, too tight a match chamber? and not very smooth.

Or could my gas block be not centered, too far forward/back, not over the gas hole in bbl?
gas hole in bbl blocked?

any info appreciated.

thx.

Make sure your gas tube is not upside down.
Also u can try these
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-tools/ar-15-gas-block-aligner-prod68371.aspx

 

[jepp2]

In looking at the Krieger chamber, it looks well, rough, compared to the other AR

Is your "other" AR chrome lined? The Krieger chamber is machined and not chrome lined.

Just one more thing to check is that your bolt isn't the cause of the short stroking. Gas rings give plenty of resistance when the bolt moves in the carrier, right?

 

[searcher]

So the bolt is not opening AT ALL? O.K. - spring somewhat ruled out. If you can manually pull the charging handle ALL THE WAY back with no ill-effort, that likely confirms your buffer is able to move rearward, your trigger is not hanging up, etc. When you release the charging handle, if the gun locks up - that signifies the cam and bolt are probably O.K.. Your concern about the load being too hot could be valid, though I doubt it would cause this problem unless there is another contributing factor to the load being hot. One contributor could be that your brass is too long - and the end of the neck is pinching your bullet as it is FORCED into the lands. The pressure spike could easily create much higher than norm pressure and cause extraction problem. Sometimes chambers don't allow for the full length of SAAMI specified length. Because, as i\I understand it, you haven't fired other ammo out of it before, this is a possibility at this point. The loads listed in the Sierra manual are, in my opinion, on the warm side. I have guns that cannot tolerate some of their accuracy loads in .223, though again, I doubt that alone is the problem - but it is possible. When I put those clamp-on gas blocks on - I measure with my calipers how far the center of the hole in the gas block is from the front edge of the gas block - then measure from your front stop on the barrel to the hole in the barrel to ensure that when you slide the gas block to the stop - it will, in fact, have the hole in the gas block sitting over the hold in the barrel. Sometimes you need to back the gas block away from the stop a bit to center it - and sometimes you have to get a new gas block. If the hole in the barrel was drilled too close to the stop - you have a far bigger problem. Ruling this out probably points to ammo. A simple firing of factory ammo will tell you that in one shot.

 

[searcher]

Out of curiosity - wen i ordered A/R barrels from Krieger, they provided their on gas block with the barrel. Is this the case with the gas block you are using?

 

[CT10ring]

Out of curiosity - wen i ordered A/R barrels from Krieger, they provided their on gas block with the barrel. Is this the case with the gas block you are using?

This barrel was in stock - fluted + chambered - somewhat discounted special item. The rep at Krieger told me it was ordered and available for sale for some reason, non payment perhaps. Didn't have gas block and I didn't ask for one. If I had to do again, I'd have had it installed.

 

[CT10ring]

Is your "other" AR chrome lined? The Krieger chamber is machined and not chrome lined.

Just one more thing to check is that your bolt isn't the cause of the short stroking. Gas rings give plenty of resistance when the bolt moves in the carrier, right?

other AR is steel, just smoother chamber-this is a visual eyeball visual check.

 

[jepp2]

If I had to do again, I'd have had it installed.

But you would have had to removed it to put the barrel nut on. I also have a Krieger barrel they chambered for me, and mine is extremely smooth. Sounds like you got a great deal on the barrel. Mine was in the $600 range without fluting.

 

[CT10ring]

Gas block was loose, had moved forward and was off center. I degreased screws, sanded (scratched) interior of the block, added loctite/screws, re-aligned (flutes useful), re-tightened. block is under the handguard, unseen...
I have 3 other brands of blocks for future builds and are all clamp on. May get it pinned in the future. Many thanks for the info & help here.
Guess I could checked prior w/o posting, but as new loads, new bbl, 1st use of 450 primers, 1st build, needed some
advice. info here may help the next guy... btw, the Geissele Automatics reaction rod is pretty dam useful.

 

[CT10ring]

But you would have had to removed it to put the barrel nut on. I also have a Krieger barrel they chambered for me, and mine is extremely smooth. Sounds like you got a great deal on the barrel. Mine was in the $600 range without fluting.

exactly. block would have had to come off, yeah a good deal, 2x fluted, bead blasted, chambered and ready to ship, packed w a hat (December buy). The chamber is just a tad rougher than the other AR I use, not saying it's a problem. clearly not... I did spin a little 0000 steel wool on a mop into the chamber, just, well because.

 

[CT10ring]

Make sure your gas tube is not upside down.
Also u can try these
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-tools/ar-15-gas-block-aligner-prod68371.aspx

that's a useful little piece of plastic.

 

[jepp2]

the Geissele Automatics reaction rod is pretty dam useful

Just don't tighten your barrel nut using it . Ask me how I know.....

 

[Richard Coody]

check gas block alignment. i use canned air. block the breach end, stick the straw for the canned air in the muzzle sealed with a rag. give it a blast and see what comes out of the gas tube.

if good

lube the bolt carrier and bolt liberally for break in, load up with some good factory 5.56 ammo federal lake city is what i prefer and shoot the heck out of it. after a hundred rounds if it is still acting up then you have a problem

 

[johnfred1965]

Glad you found your problem. For future reference, you can put a small chamfer on the gas port before you install the block. This will give you a bit of leeway in lining up the block. A chamfer as wide as the port itself will help with gas flow when you are just a bit off, and if you are farther than that, you should be able to see the mis alignment.

PS: if you keep using the set screw type block, after you get it aligned and set the first time, remove it and put a small countersink where the screws hit. This will help you quickly line everything up on re-assemble

 

[geraldgee]

CT- after the weekend you’ve had, Krieger needs to send you another hat!

Glad you got it going. Good luck and be safe

Gerald

 

[CT10ring]

CT- after the weekend you’ve had, Krieger needs to send you another hat!

Glad you got it going. Good luck and be safe

Gerald

thx, all issues self induced. what's that phrase- a little knowledge is a dangerous thing?