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20 Vartarg, 20 Practical, 20 Tactical, or ???

I talked to Berger as well as a couple different barrel companies before I ordered the barrel for my 20-222 and 11tw was the consensus. I'm shooting the 40gr Berger's at 3650 and a 20P shoots a little faster than my 20-222 so you can put a 10tw on it if you want but up to the 40's it's not really needed.

All the off the shelf factory guns chambered in 204 Ruger come with 12tw barrels but they're often iffy on how well they shoot the 40's as some seem to shoot them ok while others do not. If you want to shoot up to the 40's I certainly wouldn't advocate using a 12tw. More often than not 11tw barrels is what most, including myself, are using.

Also, with regard to sizing when using a bushing 223 sizing die, when you use a bushing die there is no need to leave the button on the decapping stem, remove it because it defeats the whole purpose of using a bushing die not to mention a 223 size button will be to large for your 20P.
 
If you decide on the 20P, I recommend getting a chamber with a little free bore if using the Sierra 39 gr bullet. Mine has zero free bore and the bullet shank extended into neck shoulder junction causing very high pressure at the slight donut. Blew a couple of primers before discovering the problem. Resulted in having to use an expander and turning at the bottom of the neck. The 39 gr Sierra has a high BC and a long shank.

Chuck
 
So if i want a set of dies specific to the 20P (don't want to mess with my current 223 dies) am i better buying another set of 223 dies and the right bushing or does someone make a 20p set already?
 
So if i want a set of dies specific to the 20P (don't want to mess with my current 223 dies) am i better buying another set of 223 dies and the right bushing or does someone make a 20p set already?
All you need is a 223 bushing die. If you already have a set of 223 dies you can use the seater from that set and won't even need a new seating die.

Either one of these will work.


If you want to neck size only then use your other 223 FL die you have when it's time to bump the shoulder back you can use this die.
 
My confusion.... can i use my 223 FLS die on my brass, then a 223 bushing neck die with correct .227-.228 bushing then a 223 seater die.

am i over thinking this? Once I fire in the new 20P i can neck size only going forward unless I need to set shoulder back correct?
 
My confusion.... can i use my 223 FLS die on my brass, then a 223 bushing neck die with correct .227-.228 bushing then a 223 seater die.

am i over thinking this? Once I fire in the new 20P i can neck size only going forward unless I need to set shoulder back correct?
Yes, a 223 bushing die with appropriate bushing is what you want for sizing. Can use a standard 223 seating die.

A trick i used when forming cases was to use a standard 223 non-bushing die without the expander ball first, that will size the neck down a little, then on to the bushing die with final size bushing (I used a .226 with LC brass). I had two dies and if you have a progressive press it makes forming cases a breeze.
 
Most 223 rem dies (with expander ball inserted) size the Neck O.D. to .253"-.255"
Remove the internals (expander ball) and now it will size the Neck O.D. to .246"-.248"

A couple of bushings will get you the rest of the way without excessive strain.
1) Intermediary step: .234" to .238" sized Bushing
2) Final step: .226" to .228" sized Bushing
3) Neck Tension/Proper Neck I.D.: Expander mandrel with 20 cal expander or install the die's guts using a .20 cal tapered expander ball.
 
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How thin are the necks on the brass you guys are using to make your 20 Practicals or are you running a lot of neck tension because these are 20P's in an AR build?

I neck down new Lapua brass in one step using a .231 bushing and that gives me right around 1.5 thou neck tension. My Lapua brass neck thickness ends up being 14.25-14.5 thou.
 
I'm a 20 Vartarg in a bolt gun, but I shoot plenty of AR15.

I believe that .0015 of tension is maybe in line with a bench rifle, and inadequate neck tension for an AR15. Typically, you are going to want 3-4 thousandths (some might say more) to ensure the bullet stays put and doesn't shift as the bolt slams shut. It is easy enough to test. Load up some dummy rounds (no powder or primer) and measure them and then load into a magazine. Lock the BCG open/back, insert magazine, and then release the Bolt Catch. Carefully extract the dummy round and measure/compare.

Repeat at range with live reloads and see how much your AR15 acts like a kinetic hammer on your cartridges. If there is movement then might need more neck tension or crimp.
 
All of our 20's are 12 twist barrels . We shoot the 32 grn. Vmaxs and they have been great performers. They are accurate hard hitters on P-dogs, Badgers and Rock Chucks. If I was going after Yotes I would probably go to a slightly faster twist 10 or 11 .
 
If the barrel is a true 12 twist it will hammer with 39 sierras and 40 vmax or 40 Bib. Too be on the safe side go with 11 twist barrel to handle the 40 gr bullets with precision accuracy! My 20 TAC HV is a True 12 Twist barrel and loves 40 BIb at 3860 fps!
 
Question for you all. Has anyone had success downloading 20 practical to 20 VT speeds and getting good accuracy?

The reason I ask I because I am planning a 20 VT build but 223 brass is much cheaper. This rifle will have a 18” barrel only be use for PDs and within 300 as a 223ai will be used for longer shots. Mostly for a back seat truck Gun also.
 
I’m looking for a 20 with less volume like the VT but with cheaper brass. Prolly asking for too much here.
 
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I’m looking for a 20 with less volume like the BT but with cheaper brass. Prolly asking for too much here.
What about a 20-222? I don't know what you consider "cheap brass" but the last Lapua 222 brass I bought was right around $55 per 100 and it lasts a very very long time.
 

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