It is an AR
20 Practical pet loads
- Thread starter MahtewsSB
- Start date
I am starting with 200 new, never fired pieces of Lake City brass. Everything has been necked down and trimmed and ready for first loading
hogpatrol
Silver $$ Contributor
My 20P AR does not dent brass. Goes right from the catcher to deprime die and then to the final bushing full length sizing die. Shoot it first. You may not have a dent issue.
http://www.6mmar.com/20_Practical.html
I do not understand why but that website is fickle to pull up for me sometimes too. More often than not.
Google 6mmar and robert whitley 20p. Good stuff.
I do not understand why but that website is fickle to pull up for me sometimes too. More often than not.
Google 6mmar and robert whitley 20p. Good stuff.
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I test fired 2 rounds over the weekend and the side of the case mouth is flattened pretty good. I'll post a pic when I get off work if I remember.
hogpatrol
Silver $$ Contributor
Call Redding and tell them what you're trying to do. Verify that this will work with your die. They make one that fits their 20 Tactical die. It may work with yours.
https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/28-carbide-size-button-kits
https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/28-carbide-size-button-kits
That looks more like what I need. Thanks! I'll call them again today. Tried Friday but they were closed when I called.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
Cover the brass defector with the fuzzy half of Velcro, adjust gas block to throw to 3-4 o'clock. And I was not happy with the 39 gr Sierra on coyote, great pd bullet. I'm going to try a neck turning mandrel to round out a 20p brass, since I have several single stage presses and will not have to change dies. Berger bullets, but I will give BIB 40's a try sometime.
What do you mean by adjusting the gas block to throw 3-4 o'clock?
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
If your brass landing out in front(1-2 o'clock) you are probably over gassing the bolt. This can excessively ding case mouths, hot or fast ejections may strike the port edge instead of the brass defector. Also over gassing may effect recoil and adversely affect accuracy. I think this issue is more prevalent when we drop caliber and bullet weight(increasing velocity) from 556 performance standards. Adjustable gas blocks allow "tuning" the gas system.
I'll keep an eye and see where it's landing once I start doing load development. But if i recall correctly, the 2 test round I fired landed in the 3-4 o'clock area on grass as I intentionally shot where they would land on soft surface to observe any dings and such.
Contacted Redding today and they are sending my the part I need at no cost. Amazing customer service and will continue to use their products.
Hi new to forum and this thread.
The decapping rod (Redding probably already told you) should be a .204 Ruger Type S decapping rod. a suggestion to help avoid trouble (this I encountered), 1 ) the decapping rod, screw it all the way up (to shorten it). Otherwise the rod will bend and deform. 2) bushings, currently using .233 & .226. I ordered a few more sizes (because I can't leave anything good alone
).There is no such thing as a pet load. Every barrel is different. Do what every other good hand loader does, find out what your barrel likes. That is what hand loading is all about. You can draw satisfaction when you get it shooting.
You don't say? I'm not here looking to copy people's loads. Just gathering as much data as possible to get a general idea as to where to expect certain powder/bullet combinations to shoot well and good starting points so I'm not wasting my time and components. This isn't my first go around. Thanks though, chief.
searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
Go with the 1-11" twist. For coyotes - Use the Bergers. The 40-VMax and Sierra 39 Blitz king rule on squirrels or coyote head shots. The lighter bullets work fine but tend to be far more temperamental in our guns and the added wind drift - plus you would not want to use the 32's and such on the coyotes ideally anyway, given a choice. You will find that a 24" to 26" barrel is better than the stubbies, and nothing wrong with once-fired Lake City. When I get a new barrel, I run pieces of the 1x fired through a short-based die, then the necking-down procedure then expend necks for neck turner, turn necks, resize for a final time. You will also probably find (if you opt to try it) that the faster-burning powders offer the best accuracy and acceptable velocity. the Accurate LT-32 and H4198 may be the best two and maybe H-322 now and then. That has proven to be true on 6 different barrels I have loaded for, with 8 different powders samplings tried in all of them. I like the Hart Barrels.
What was your H4198 load?
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