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1903A3 Receiver Question

kd4avp

Gold $$ Contributor
My son is a vintage rifle fan. He has acquired a 1903A3 Drill rifle. He has gotten the welded barrel free from the receiver. Actually impressed me a lot he was able to do it. Never tackled anything like this before but we have built ARs and other bench rest rifles. He took his time working the weld away from the barrel till we seen the crack. After finally getting the barrel tight enough in the vise and using the action wrench, we got it off. That thing was on much tighter than I expected but then again its a 1940s era rifle. There were some welds at the rear of the action near the bolt and he was successful in getting that cleaned up. Was not as concerned about that area as I was on the receiver end.
Just being a dad and wanting to make sure he is doing this safely, any warning signs he should be aware of when considering rebarreling this piece?
The bolt will be replaced as it was demilitarized very very well.
I guess my question will be, on the receiver face, if its still in pretty good shape, any need to resurface it before a new barrel?
He wants to shoot it eventually once he has all the replacement parts.
Any suggestions and tips welcome.
As I said, this is dad being probably a little over the top cautious in this project.
Never tackled bringing a rifle like this back into shooting condition.
 
I did one of those, to get the barrel off I made a cut about 1/8 deep all around the barrel as close to the receiver as I could get without touching it with a dremal cut off wheel, this relieved the pressure, was still pretty tight.
I have another O3a3 with a good barrel that we can not get the barrel off, I don't want to cut up this barrel but would like to change caliber.
 
Try not to face the ring much, or at all. The barrel may over index and you'll need to roll the shoulder to get a decent draw. Just did one for my son and we ran into that issue. Would have been better to leave the ring face slightly "untrue" (after dressing the weld down to the existing face) and just tighten the barrel to the ordnance index mark. I seriously doubt you will notice any improvement, or degradation of, any accuracy by "truing" or not.
 
Try not to face the ring much, or at all. The barrel may over index and you'll need to roll the shoulder to get a decent draw. Just did one for my son and we ran into that issue. Would have been better to leave the ring face slightly "untrue" (after dressing the weld down to the existing face) and just tighten the barrel to the ordnance index mark. I seriously doubt you will notice any improvement, or degradation of, any accuracy by "truing" or not.
Correct, this is the way, though you can find/ make breaching washers for an overtimed barrel
 
Correct, this is the way, though you can find/ make breaching washers for an overtimed barrel
They can be a solution, however they are problematic when the tenon has a thread relief. The washers need to go over the thread crown, and then fall into the relief and look like shit when you tighten the barrel.
 
Sarco used to sell barrels that had a spacer silver soldered on that could be machined again to time the barrel. They were barrels that originally had a relief cut in them to facilitate removal without cracking the receiver and they ended up with the barrels and came up with the solution so they could sell them.
 
Well my son proved I was worrying too much. 1903A3 turned out amazing. Beautiful new stock, new bolt and cleaned up all the stock hardware. Kid made me proud in how he was determined to do this himself. Tweaked the chambering a little with a pull thru reamer with the help of one of our club members. Closed just a tiny bit tight but I understand in a rifle of this nature that's actually desirable.
Being a benchrest shooter, I go for the easy closing bolt. But a totally different type application and action. Thanks to all who supplied info and tips.
 
Looks good
Y’all need sights ?
I asked and he said a spare would be great to have. He has the ones off this one, but they have been banged about a bit. Think his ultimate goal is to tap the receiver for scope mount and make sniper version. Its a Smith Corona receiver and I understand those are exceptionally hard and have to know what you are doing to tap them. If you have a set you would like to get rid of, please PM me and lets get together on it
 
Its a Smith Corona receiver and I understand those are exceptionally hard and have to know what you are doing to tap them.
Haven't done one- but "almost" did and researched this was suggested. Carbide drill bit (so as not to work harden the steel), followed by a 1/2" long piece of 3/8" copper with a short "plug" turned on one end to fit into the drilled hole, then torch it to spot-anneal for tapping.
 
They can be a solution, however they are problematic when the tenon has a thread relief. The washers need to go over the thread crown, and then fall into the relief and look like shit when you tighten the barrel.
Super glue them to the face of the action or barrel shoulder before assembly. Locktite Black Max is your friend!
 
He found a smith in Charlotte NC that can do it for him. This person has experience in doing these actions before, so thats a plus. We don't have a mill or lathe, so its better that someone with the right tools and equipment tackle the tapping job. His mount and scope arrive the first of the week.
 

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