JEWELL TRIGGERS -- Future Prospects

[LarryDScott]

Although I have taken my web site down, I continue to get calls and emails hoping that I still have some inventory. I only wish???. Buyers are wanting PARTS AND SPRINGS, which I never stocked, but they don't know that. My suggestion if any of you have a Jewell that's inoperative I would part it out, and list it in the classifieds, because the demand is out there.

 

[V509]

I just do not get the guys that are willing to pay beyond list price for a product with no support when there are great alternatives

 

[H & H]

Would any one be interested if they were available.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Would any one be interested if they were available.

Still a a huge following from members here.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Would any one be interested if they were available.

That's a virtual certainty..yes.

 

[dusterdave173]

I am new to target rifles--have been hard at it for about 4 years
And in that time I see all the high resale prices on Jewell triggers--I recently got to shoot a friends rifle with a Jewell--it was a 40x bench rifle--needless to say I was impressed-but.....I have a Rifle Basix Target trigger in a Remington ( 2-4 oz advertised)--it has a grooved trigger face--It is every bit as good and was just $182
You might try one before pouring out extra $$ for a used --who knows what trigger. Just saying--they are really worth a look--tuned just right mine is simply amazing

 

[ELR LVR]

I had a Jewell, it was nice.
Sold it and bought a Hart 2 oz and. Shilen 2 oz.
2 birds in hand is better than 1 in hand

 

[butchlambert]

I am new to target rifles--have been hard at it for about 4 years
And in that time I see all the high resale prices on Jewell triggers--I recently got to shoot a friends rifle with a Jewell--it was a 40x bench rifle--needless to say I was impressed-but.....I have a Rifle Basix Target trigger in a Remington ( 2-4 oz advertised)--it has a grooved trigger face--It is every bit as good and was just $182
You might try one before pouring out extra $$ for a used --who knows what trigger. Just saying--they are really worth a look--tuned just right mine is simply amazing

When you have been around the turnip patch more than one time, you will know.

 

[swd]

Would any one be interested if they were available.

That would completely depend on the price. There are some really great triggers available now that are even better than Jewell.

 

[Ccrider]

That would completely depend on the price. There are some really great triggers available now that are even better than Jewell.

This is true, but they are way more expensive and not that much better than a properly set Jewell.

 

[swd]

This is true, but they are way more expensive and not that much better than a properly set Jewell.

Trigger prices have gone crazy the last few years so the question is if someone brought a Jewell copy to the market what would it cost? At say $450 would you buy it over a Bix at $550? I have quite a few Jewell's, a Flavio and a Bix competition. If you like them really light the Bix and Flavio are quite a bit better and will go lighter than a Jewell. Now if I can get a new Jewell competition for $165 at Bruno's again well that's a no brainer but I think those days a long gone, LOL.

 

[spaniel]

Trigger prices have gone crazy the last few years so the question is if someone brought a Jewell copy to the market what would it cost? At say $450 would you buy it over a Bix at $550? I have quite a few Jewell's, a Flavio and a Bix competition. If you like them really light the Bix and Flavio are quite a bit better and will go lighter than a Jewell. Now if I can get a new Jewell competition for $165 at Bruno's again well that's a no brainer but I think those days a long gone, LOL.

I recently started to acquire parts for my first precision rifle build since Jewells went out of stock. When I got to the trigger options I was like holy fright, I can't replace a Jewell without paying twice what I paid for those.

 

[leenizmeen]

I have 4 jewell triggers 3 of 4 my rifle builds
Rem700 308 top safety w/ bottom bolt release set@ 4oz
Rem700 6mm br same as above
BAT M 300wsm no safety no bolt release set@ 2oz
BAT S 6ppc HV no safety no bolt release feels less than 2oz
(bought used from John pierce)
Never had any problems went bang every time I pressed the trigger no complaints paid no more than $200 back in the early 2000s just wanted to chime in on these solid triggers...you alls have a good evening

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Has anybody used the Timney Benchrest Trigger.

3 to 6 ounces is not half bad. I would be curious as to how close it’s inner workings are to the Jewell.

I have one on my Barnard SM 6BR. I think there may have been 2 different models( ?) It certainly wont go down that far, but it suits me fine for F-class - maybe around 10oz?

 

[charlie b]

...but "Timing" was why it was successful. ...

We had the same luck in our small business. Right time, right place. We went through the downfall as well, but didn't go over the cliff before we bailed.

 

[WyleWD]

Would any one be interested if they were available.

If they came out and were as good as a Jewell and reasonably priced, yes. If it included good factory support and you could take them apart and clean them without voiding the warranty. Yes.

A couple of times I called Jewell about a problem, sent them the trigger and got either a new one or repaired one back from them in under 2 weeks. JME. WD

 

[AlNyhus]

For me, the Jewell BR series trigger remains the standard by which other triggers are judged. Completely adjustable externally with no need to remove the trigger and deceptively simple in it's mechanism.

About the only way you can hurt one is if you hole a primer and the gas gets inside the bolt. That forces the firing pin assy backwards, the cocking piece jams back against the trigger sear connector, and everything inside the trigger stacks up in the reverse way of how the levers normally function. That can break the middle lever and sometimes the trigger sear connector piece.

The biggest issue by far with these triggers is poor maintenance and cleaning. I service and repair a fair number of these for shooters and with the exception of broken pieces related to holed primers, proper cleaning and readjustment is all that many need. Detailing the side plates and levers as needed also helps quite a bit.

Even when using a good bore guide, solvents have a way of wicking into the top of the trigger. Many people clean the barrel and then put a bit of oil, etc in the bore. Then the gun gets stood on the butt in the gun safe and the oil/solvent finds it's way back to the trigger. The fix for that is as simple as plugging the chamber with a couple patches or a piece of dental roll...like what many use for cleaning the lug abuttments.

Flushing the triggers with lighter fluid periodically is good for maintainence. Before each season, I dissassemble the triggers and give them a complete cleaning. It's simple to do and something everyone with a BR series Jewell should be capable of doing themselves.

The HBR series triggers are different internally to allow the use of a safety. These have a small triangular lever that articulates on the middle lever. That small triangular lever is easily broken...especially if the over travel adjustment is wonked up and the trigger is dirty and gummy.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[davidjoe]

For me, the Jewell BR series trigger remains the standard by which other triggers are judged. Completely adjustable externally with no need to remove the trigger and deceptively simple in it's mechanism.

About the only way you can hurt one is if you hole a primer and the gas gets inside the bolt. That forces the firing pin assy backwards, the cocking piece jams back against the trigger sear connector, and everything inside the trigger stacks up in the reverse way of how the levers normally function. That can break the middle lever and sometimes the trigger sear connector piece.

The biggest issue by far with these triggers is poor maintenance and cleaning. I service and repair a fair number of these for shooters and with the exception of broken pieces related to holed primers, proper cleaning and readjustment is all that many need. Detailing the side plates and levers as needed also helps quite a bit.

Even when using a good bore guide, solvents have a way of wicking into the top of the trigger. Many people clean the barrel and then put a bit of oil, etc in the bore. Then the gun gets stood on the butt in the gun safe and the oil/solvent finds it's way back to the trigger. The fix for that is as simple as plugging the chamber with a couple patches or a piece of dental roll...like what many use for cleaning the lug abuttments.

Flushing the triggers with lighter fluid periodically is good for maintainence. Before each season, I dissassemble the triggers and give them a complete cleaning. It's simple to do and something everyone with a BR series Jewell should be capable of doing themselves.

The HBR series triggers are different internally to allow the use of a safety. These have a small triangular lever that articulates on the middle lever. That small triangular lever is easily broken...especially if the over travel adjustment is wonked up and the trigger is dirty and gummy.

Good shootin' -Al

Al, how does the trigger “know” the difference between the cocking piece coming backwards because of a blown primer, versus the gun being cocked and the bolt being pulled backwards? Just wondering, because we don’t have to pull the trigger back when we cycle the bolt, to protect the mechanism.

We knew they were great when they were available, but we didn’t really know that each one came with a $200 bill in the little bag. It was the $200 “worth” that doesn’t cone in the bag of every comparably good trigger we now spend nearly $500 for. I’m still searching for the next one that sees the virtue of using all steel in the one, small thing that keeps the gun from firing until we want it to.

 

[AlNyhus]

Al, how does the trigger “know” the difference between the cocking piece coming backwards because of a blown primer, versus the gun being cocked and the bolt being pulled backwards? Just wondering, because we don’t have to pull the trigger back when we cycle the bolt, to protect the mechanism.

Remember that the primer itself is what limits the forward motion of pin...it's the 'stop'.

The 'back up' happens when the pin is still coming forward (due to the primer having a hole in it). The powder gas escapes rearward through the hole in the primer cup and gets into the bolt through the clearance between the pin tip and the hole in the bolt face for the pin tip.

The pin assy is hammered backwards by gas pressure and the cocking piece hammers back against the sear connector piece of the trigger. That moves everything in the trigger backwards.

Not a gentle process and it happens in an instant....

 

[davidjoe]

I think I follow. It’s the trigger dealing with the extra momentum imparted because of the speed at which this happens.