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Aero Solus Bolt Head Question...

xhellionx

Silver $$ Contributor
Hello all, hope everyone is doing well! Stupid question of the day:

I have a Solus action and I need to disassemble/strip the bolt so I can get an accurate headspace measurement with a fire-formed cartridge for reloading purposes. Since the Solus is modeled after an AR-style bolt, it's more of a pain to take apart than I was hoping for but I'll get it worked out (I ordered the Brownell's extractor removal tool since the Sinclair does not work with this bolt due to the tri-lug). My question is regarding the extractor: Do I need to remove that too when I strip the bolt or just the firing pin and ejectors to check headspace? I am new to this but I am assuming you need the ejectors removed because they would create a false reading of the cartridge-to-headspace due to their protrusion from the bolt head, but would leaving the extractor in also affect this measurement?

Any help is greatly appreciated and sorry again for newbie question but I am just trying to understand the process as best as I can.
 
Just the Firing Pin and Ejectors. You need to leave the Extractor assembled so you can pull the case out.

Good luck with the dual ejectors. I haven't tried this yet and dread when I do.

I don't understand your description of it being like an AR style bolt. You can remove the firing pin assembly with your hands.
 
Just the Firing Pin and Ejectors. You need to leave the Extractor assembled so you can pull the case out.

Good luck with the dual ejectors. I haven't tried this yet and dread when I do.

I don't understand your description of it being like an AR style bolt. You can remove the firing pin assembly with your hands.
Thanks for the reply!!! It’s a tri-lug bolt so it won’t fit into the Sinclair ejector removal tool, which I didn’t know until after I purchased it. I had read somewhere that they kept the same style dual ejectors that they use in there AR BCG’s, which is why I likened it to AR style bolt, that was my mistake with verbiage. Apparently a tri-lug bolt on a Rem700 footprint is rare. I think the Brownell’s will work better and will HOPEFULLY make removing the dual ejectors a little less painful.
 
I don't understand this desire by so many people to remove the ejectors to see if a case fits. Never found it that hard to feel what was going on. I have had to fix at least six rifles that had messed up ejectors from being removed.
 
I don't understand this desire by so many people to remove the ejectors to see if a case fits. Never found it that hard to feel what was going on. I have had to fix at least six rifles that had messed up ejectors from being removed.

You've never felt the ejectors in a Solus action then. These are so stiff, you'd never be able to feel normal bolt closure. Even when you have cases sized correctly and bullet just touching lands, it takes some considerable force to close bolt. Not a benchrest action but I chambered a 6BRAI in one for a buddy and it shoots amazing.
 
I don't understand this desire by so many people to remove the ejectors to see if a case fits. Never found it that hard to feel what was going on. I have had to fix at least six rifles that had messed up ejectors from being removed.
I appreciate the reply. Trust me, I REALLY do not want to remove the ejectors, especially because if I fuck it up or lose something you cannot get replacements...everything is sold out at Aero. I am just not aware of any other way to find proper headspace without stripping the bolt and using the "Wheeler Method". I am open to suggestions from someone with more experience for sure as I am just researching using Youtube, etc.
 
I use the stripped bolt on my 3 lug Barnard actions - but the Hornady tool on the Tikkas, as the bolt handle comes away when the bolt is stripped. Works OK and after a bit of furtling, I can usually find the lands accurately
 
I appreciate the reply. Trust me, I REALLY do not want to remove the ejectors, especially because if I fuck it up or lose something you cannot get replacements...everything is sold out at Aero. I am just not aware of any other way to find proper headspace without stripping the bolt and using the "Wheeler Method". I am open to suggestions from someone with more experience for sure as I am just researching using Youtube, etc.

You'll have to remove them to have any feel for the case size correctly and then touch with bullet. Getting them out is fairly simple if you use a large plastic bag and do it inside, should catch spring or plunger trying to exit the scene. Putting them back in, I had a rod 5" or so long that OD was very close to ID of bolt face and flat on end. I put it in bench vise and pushed bolt against it compressing springs of both ejectors simultaneously and put the pin back in. Those springs are begging for some tuning and weight reduction but wasn't my rifle and owner was fine with it. I'm assuming they had some ejection problems and why they went with what they did.

We had both read that the 3 lug actions would not feed from an AICS mag. He has it in an Aero chassis with 12 round MDT 6BR magazines and it feeds no problem. First couple out of a mag are stiff, due to lots of spring compression but just require a stiff push inline with back of bolt.
 
You'll have to remove them to have any feel for the case size correctly and then touch with bullet. Getting them out is fairly simple if you use a large plastic bag and do it inside, should catch spring or plunger trying to exit the scene. Putting them back in, I had a rod 5" or so long that OD was very close to ID of bolt face and flat on end. I put it in bench vise and pushed bolt against it compressing springs of both ejectors simultaneously and put the pin back in. Those springs are begging for some tuning and weight reduction but wasn't my rifle and owner was fine with it. I'm assuming they had some ejection problems and why they went with what they did.

We had both read that the 3 lug actions would not feed from an AICS mag. He has it in an Aero chassis with 12 round MDT 6BR magazines and it feeds no problem. First couple out of a mag are stiff, due to lots of spring compression but just require a stiff push inline with back of bolt.
I’m hoping the Brownell’s tool will help with removal and re-installation of the ejectors.

 
I appreciate the reply. Trust me, I REALLY do not want to remove the ejectors, especially because if I fuck it up or lose something you cannot get replacements...everything is sold out at Aero. I am just not aware of any other way to find proper headspace without stripping the bolt and using the "Wheeler Method". I am open to suggestions from someone with more experience for sure as I am just researching using Youtube, etc.
They are not that hard to remove and install. I put them in one at a time and hold in place with a 1/16 drill bit. Put the pin in and drive it in. Not an issue.
If you’re worried about loosing anything. Just use the plastic bag n
Method. Put bolt in plastic bag and work through it. If something flys out it will be in the bag.
 
Where most people get into trouble is, They don't use a starter punch. Use a starter punch to get the pin moving and then follow through with the proper diameter straight punch.

If you have a vise with a wide enough throat, You can cut off a piece of alum rod close to the diameter of the bolt face and use it to compress the plunger/plungers if you don't have the proper tools.

Of course strip the bolt which will make it shorter.

The other thing I've seen lately is people going back together have the plunger pushed in 180 out and try forcing the pin in and wind up getting themselves into a world of hurt.
 

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