According to the handy dandy chart my powders are 17, 23, 29, 34, 39, 42, 57, 65, 66, and 72 on the list of 175 powders from fast to slow. I probably didn't select too well but those are the ones that got the best press coverage for my specific calibers. And the best sale when ordered. And as long as I'm loading what I have now I'm well set. I'll figure out another caliber if/when I add one.
Your powder is how fast?
- Thread starter Leo_B
- Start date
I run powders considered a bit fast for the cartridges I shoot but I get decent case fill and excellent accuracy and a side effect being cheaper since I use less of it. I use very little slow powders although I have some. The main thing I look for in addition to accuracy is percent burnt in the barrel. Anything slower than that is a waste to me since its burnt outside the bore in a muzzle flash
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
In my Benchrest Rifles, I shoot the powders that give the best accuracy as defined by the best agging capability.
These tend to be the ones that are actually on the slow side, such as N133 in my 6PPC and N-130 in my 30BR.
My loads in either of these would be considered 100% fill.
These tend to be the ones that are actually on the slow side, such as N133 in my 6PPC and N-130 in my 30BR.
My loads in either of these would be considered 100% fill.
wildcatter
Silver $$ Contributor
For me a good supply of different burn rates, that perform in many different calibers, of different cartage sizes, and barrel lengths is something that took years to figure out. the same caliber with the same length barrel can require far different powder depending on cartridge size. But I also want efficient overall results.
A good example would be a 22 hornet, a 222, and a 22-250AI. H110, to H4350 in rifles all toting 24" barrels. all 22 caliber, and all using the same length barrel. I also can do the same comparison with 30 cal. using a 308 win, a 30-06, and a 300 win mag. Varget, H4350, to H4831, over the decades both these examples have proven to give me great results in rifles I have loaded with them.
then I said I looked and worked for decades finding a way to be efficient. I also shoot 600 yards or less for everything except Varmints, target shooting 600 max, most hunting 200 to 500 yards is what I limit shots at in the field. At those yardages, even 100 fps is meaningless, and more efficient is priority.
I also have seen consistent results also require using a powder that not only gives me upper end pressures, but also near 100 percent case fill. I use this concept for both handgun cartridges as well as rifle. Over the decades I have found powders that work well in all calibers, of different burn rates that cover most 22 to 24 even 26 inch barrels, and it makes for being able to buy kegs, being cheaper than buying by the pound.
The small list of powders, allows great accuracy loading various calibers that use cartridges that allow full case fill and near or at max pressure. this has eliminated my use of any ball powder in rifle cartridges. Decades ago I decided that most stick powders were far less picky in what they work well in, at least for me. Maybe this concept works for me because I have stuck with fewer powders to work with and am just more familiar with their use in different applications. My big bore handguns are the only thing I use ball, or flattened ball powders in.
The powders I have found to do 95% of my loading and give top results in various cartridges and callibers are H100, and HS-6 in handguns, H322 in smaller calibers, in rifle N130, N133 and N135 cover most short and midrange target cartridges, as well as most smaller varmint rifles. in my hunting rifles for big game, or extreme range varmints, Varget, H4350, and H4831 serve me for anything from 22-250 AI to 338-06. Add IMR 7828 and even the reasonable big Magnums are covered well.
Over the decades I have found very few instances that these powders can leave me wanting or needing anything else. There are many other powders that will give near the same results in some of the cartridges, but hardly much better, and none I've found to do as well in as many different cartridges as these will.
But trust me, I have loaded and owned most commercial cartridges, and nearly as many wildcats using these powders, and have found it not worth stocking others. If these powders wont give me great results with any cartridge I have loaded for, They are probably those that are on my list of the most inefficient cartridges ever drempt up, and on my list of cartridges that are not worth baggage to own! But hey I felt the same way about dating a prom queen,,,,,
I spent many years after being forced into retirement 40 years ago after a 42' fall and surviving, mainly reloading and experimenting with anything I had no experience with. This wasn't in my spare time or after work, this was my life, all I did, unless I was fishing, and pursued it the same way, making my own lures and flies most my own configurations.
But when I ran out of commercial cartridges, wildcatting got in my blood, and that what is opened my eyes to the benefits of wildcats. Not chasing speed, that became a needless biproduct. But finding a way to blend that need for speed with the most efficient way to do it with accuracy the priority. Decades ago that is why those big belted Magnums, and cartridges that required overbore cartridges.
Why would I load a 257 Weatherby, that requires over 40% more powder, to give me less than 10% in performance, and never the accuracy the smaller 257 Roberts AI would? Even the overbore 25-06 would be better choice, but not come close to the Bob AI for efficient and never more accurate, for maybe 50 fps, 25 to 30% more powder to get 5 to7% more speed, and never give better accuracy. I just quit chasing these meaningless results, when I discovered what efficiency was really all about.
Keep it simple, it makes life more fun, and less expensive, while you stay as capable. Don't let folks make you chase meaningless wants, as they are only measurable with a chronograph, and in most cases at the obvious expense, easily recognized on the targets! Find powders that work in a wide variety of cartridges and calibers. Even chasing the most accurate loads, few top the powders I listed.
A good example would be a 22 hornet, a 222, and a 22-250AI. H110, to H4350 in rifles all toting 24" barrels. all 22 caliber, and all using the same length barrel. I also can do the same comparison with 30 cal. using a 308 win, a 30-06, and a 300 win mag. Varget, H4350, to H4831, over the decades both these examples have proven to give me great results in rifles I have loaded with them.
then I said I looked and worked for decades finding a way to be efficient. I also shoot 600 yards or less for everything except Varmints, target shooting 600 max, most hunting 200 to 500 yards is what I limit shots at in the field. At those yardages, even 100 fps is meaningless, and more efficient is priority.
I also have seen consistent results also require using a powder that not only gives me upper end pressures, but also near 100 percent case fill. I use this concept for both handgun cartridges as well as rifle. Over the decades I have found powders that work well in all calibers, of different burn rates that cover most 22 to 24 even 26 inch barrels, and it makes for being able to buy kegs, being cheaper than buying by the pound.
The small list of powders, allows great accuracy loading various calibers that use cartridges that allow full case fill and near or at max pressure. this has eliminated my use of any ball powder in rifle cartridges. Decades ago I decided that most stick powders were far less picky in what they work well in, at least for me. Maybe this concept works for me because I have stuck with fewer powders to work with and am just more familiar with their use in different applications. My big bore handguns are the only thing I use ball, or flattened ball powders in.
The powders I have found to do 95% of my loading and give top results in various cartridges and callibers are H100, and HS-6 in handguns, H322 in smaller calibers, in rifle N130, N133 and N135 cover most short and midrange target cartridges, as well as most smaller varmint rifles. in my hunting rifles for big game, or extreme range varmints, Varget, H4350, and H4831 serve me for anything from 22-250 AI to 338-06. Add IMR 7828 and even the reasonable big Magnums are covered well.
Over the decades I have found very few instances that these powders can leave me wanting or needing anything else. There are many other powders that will give near the same results in some of the cartridges, but hardly much better, and none I've found to do as well in as many different cartridges as these will.
But trust me, I have loaded and owned most commercial cartridges, and nearly as many wildcats using these powders, and have found it not worth stocking others. If these powders wont give me great results with any cartridge I have loaded for, They are probably those that are on my list of the most inefficient cartridges ever drempt up, and on my list of cartridges that are not worth baggage to own! But hey I felt the same way about dating a prom queen,,,,,
I spent many years after being forced into retirement 40 years ago after a 42' fall and surviving, mainly reloading and experimenting with anything I had no experience with. This wasn't in my spare time or after work, this was my life, all I did, unless I was fishing, and pursued it the same way, making my own lures and flies most my own configurations.
But when I ran out of commercial cartridges, wildcatting got in my blood, and that what is opened my eyes to the benefits of wildcats. Not chasing speed, that became a needless biproduct. But finding a way to blend that need for speed with the most efficient way to do it with accuracy the priority. Decades ago that is why those big belted Magnums, and cartridges that required overbore cartridges.
Why would I load a 257 Weatherby, that requires over 40% more powder, to give me less than 10% in performance, and never the accuracy the smaller 257 Roberts AI would? Even the overbore 25-06 would be better choice, but not come close to the Bob AI for efficient and never more accurate, for maybe 50 fps, 25 to 30% more powder to get 5 to7% more speed, and never give better accuracy. I just quit chasing these meaningless results, when I discovered what efficiency was really all about.
Keep it simple, it makes life more fun, and less expensive, while you stay as capable. Don't let folks make you chase meaningless wants, as they are only measurable with a chronograph, and in most cases at the obvious expense, easily recognized on the targets! Find powders that work in a wide variety of cartridges and calibers. Even chasing the most accurate loads, few top the powders I listed.
Not sure about this post since you didn't bother to give any reference to which of the myriad of burn rate charts you are referencing but the positions are relative so a powder that is 5 spot higher than another doesn't mean much depending on the position in the chart.
Happy Veteran's Day and thank you for your service.
jds holler
Gold $$ Contributor
I'd like to see a "burn rate chart" that places the powders in a zone with a particular value rather than simply a list of fastest to slowest.
I hope I made that understandable.
jd
I hope I made that understandable.
jdI found it on the web of course. The page I printed has a header "Relative Burn Rates From Fastest To Slowest (rev. NOV '23)" but I'm afraid no other identifier. My printer is b/w but it had color bands to identify Hodgdon, Winchester, Accurate and Ramshot brand powders among the entries so I'm thinking it maybe was from the Hodgdon site.
I didn't think about burn rates when I ordered them, just what was available and had good promotion to sell it for one/some of the calibers I'll be loading eventually. The 2400 and Lil' Gun load them all, the rest save 1 load 2 of the 4 and one powder loads only one of my options. So we know where it's going.
Sounds like the Hodgdon chart.
Yes, the one I found is apparently the version just prior to that one and fits all on one page, but otherwise that looks like it.
I just look in the reloading manuals and see which powders give the highest FPS. To me that means they are the most efficient for my caliber and bullet weight. I always found a good load. I don't care what the fill % is or burn rate.For me a good supply of different burn rates, that perform in many different calibers, of different cartage sizes, and barrel lengths is something that took years to figure out. the same caliber with the same length barrel can require far different powder depending on cartridge size. But I also want efficient overall results.
A good example would be a 22 hornet, a 222, and a 22-250AI. H110, to H4350 in rifles all toting 24" barrels. all 22 caliber, and all using the same length barrel. I also can do the same comparison with 30 cal. using a 308 win, a 30-06, and a 300 win mag. Varget, H4350, to H4831, over the decades both these examples have proven to give me great results in rifles I have loaded with them.
then I said I looked and worked for decades finding a way to be efficient. I also shoot 600 yards or less for everything except Varmints, target shooting 600 max, most hunting 200 to 500 yards is what I limit shots at in the field. At those yardages, even 100 fps is meaningless, and more efficient is priority.
I also have seen consistent results also require using a powder that not only gives me upper end pressures, but also near 100 percent case fill. I use this concept for both handgun cartridges as well as rifle. Over the decades I have found powders that work well in all calibers, of different burn rates that cover most 22 to 24 even 26 inch barrels, and it makes for being able to buy kegs, being cheaper than buying by the pound.
The small list of powders, allows great accuracy loading various calibers that use cartridges that allow full case fill and near or at max pressure. this has eliminated my use of any ball powder in rifle cartridges. Decades ago I decided that most stick powders were far less picky in what they work well in, at least for me. Maybe this concept works for me because I have stuck with fewer powders to work with and am just more familiar with their use in different applications. My big bore handguns are the only thing I use ball, or flattened ball powders in.
The powders I have found to do 95% of my loading and give top results in various cartridges and callibers are H100, and HS-6 in handguns, H322 in smaller calibers, in rifle N130, N133 and N135 cover most short and midrange target cartridges, as well as most smaller varmint rifles. in my hunting rifles for big game, or extreme range varmints, Varget, H4350, and H4831 serve me for anything from 22-250 AI to 338-06. Add IMR 7828 and even the reasonable big Magnums are covered well.
Over the decades I have found very few instances that these powders can leave me wanting or needing anything else. There are many other powders that will give near the same results in some of the cartridges, but hardly much better, and none I've found to do as well in as many different cartridges as these will.
But trust me, I have loaded and owned most commercial cartridges, and nearly as many wildcats using these powders, and have found it not worth stocking others. If these powders wont give me great results with any cartridge I have loaded for, They are probably those that are on my list of the most inefficient cartridges ever drempt up, and on my list of cartridges that are not worth baggage to own! But hey I felt the same way about dating a prom queen,,,,,
I spent many years after being forced into retirement 40 years ago after a 42' fall and surviving, mainly reloading and experimenting with anything I had no experience with. This wasn't in my spare time or after work, this was my life, all I did, unless I was fishing, and pursued it the same way, making my own lures and flies most my own configurations.
But when I ran out of commercial cartridges, wildcatting got in my blood, and that what is opened my eyes to the benefits of wildcats. Not chasing speed, that became a needless biproduct. But finding a way to blend that need for speed with the most efficient way to do it with accuracy the priority. Decades ago that is why those big belted Magnums, and cartridges that required overbore cartridges.
Why would I load a 257 Weatherby, that requires over 40% more powder, to give me less than 10% in performance, and never the accuracy the smaller 257 Roberts AI would? Even the overbore 25-06 would be better choice, but not come close to the Bob AI for efficient and never more accurate, for maybe 50 fps, 25 to 30% more powder to get 5 to7% more speed, and never give better accuracy. I just quit chasing these meaningless results, when I discovered what efficiency was really all about.
Keep it simple, it makes life more fun, and less expensive, while you stay as capable. Don't let folks make you chase meaningless wants, as they are only measurable with a chronograph, and in most cases at the obvious expense, easily recognized on the targets! Find powders that work in a wide variety of cartridges and calibers. Even chasing the most accurate loads, few top the powders I listed.
You need to understand how burn rates are determined. No matter what the powder type, a fixed wt. of powder is put in a closed cylinder. The cylinder is the same size, dimensions and volume to test each powder. It’s ignited with some type of device that’s electrical. High speed electronic sensors measure the temp and pressure curve.
The test has nothing to do with a rifle barrel, bullet wt., chamber or barrel dimensions. All you can say is they were all burned under the same exact conditions.
Which is incomplete by not listing ADI whom makes many of Hodgdon's powders:
Powder equivalents
Powder equivalents Note: This table shows only approximate equivalent values within about 5%. Actual burning rates can vary depending on the calibre, firearm, loading components and practices, as well as from powder lot to lot. As a consequence, it must be understood that Australian Munitions...
www.adiworldclass.com.au
Here in Downunder NZ ADI is more readily available than most in the chart linked.
wildcatter
Silver $$ Contributor
if you use your theory for determining efficient your backin up! chasing velocity is worthless, in the first place it is the least important part of load development.
Many powders that give the highest possible velocity I have found to give higher extreme spread.
Many that give the highest velocity are more detrimental to barrel life and eat throats.
higher velocity, less volume, usually give less than optimum accuracy.
lastly, like I said in most of my cartridges consistency comes with full cases, at near top pressure, and that in turn computes to better accuracy!
I will assure if your giving up anything, extreme spread, accuracy, or barrel life for 50 to 100 fps with any load to gain 50 to 100 fps, your doing it for nothing! If you zero at 200 yards from 100 to 400 you can't measure the difference in point of aim! The only way you can see a difference in those velocity gains is with a chronograph, never at how flat it shoots, and even at 500 yards group size from center to center wont show any benefit in shooting flatter.
I also find most times a powder that fills less than 95 to 100 percent of my case in changing conditions with load near max pressure, I see more change in the load.
But lastly, I see those powders useable in a smaller number of cartridges. When I have a load that find worthy of using, efficient means the most forgiving, with extreme accuracy the only goal! if 100 or 150 fps means I cant be happy, I would go to a bigger cartridge, I sure wouldn't give up everything except speed to call it efficient!
In 71 years I've found no need for going to the biggest eardeesplitenloudenboomer to serve my purpose. In fact today I would never use a belted case, or modern unbelted Magnum, it is way over rated, and all come with to many detrimental results to be considered efficient!
The powders I have listed above I have found do better all round than most others, and work in a wider range of cartridges to give me the best results. Again that means they do everything better than most, that equates to the meaning of Efficient. Even with 100 to 150 fps being the last thing I worry about, that don't win matches, and if it means I don't have enough for taking game, I chose to small a cartridge to start with! The best thing, in 71 years I am cluttering my shelves less, spending less time trying to find loads going thru fewer powders to get top results, and giving up on fewer attempts, that is EFFICIENT.
Opinions vary. My hunting rifles shoot under .400" groups. No loose primer pockets, No punctured primers, over 20 reloads on a case. Over 4000 shots on the barrel and it's still accurate. Just because you have an opinion it doesn't mean everyone else doesn't know what their doing. I never chased velocity it's just a way to choose a powder out of the 50 possible choices.
I used to be fast.
Now just halfassed lol.
You guys take this stuff to the next level.
And it sure is fun reading.
Now just halfassed lol.
You guys take this stuff to the next level.
And it sure is fun reading.
Tesoro
Non-compliant
I am far from a powder pro but it seems like the VV powders are the ones that seem to be the most consistent year after year as they are made in house are not in the category of "same name but made by some other jobber" after Hodgdon bought another competitor?
Are many of you guys from, "Down under", having good Luck with, IMR 8208 XBR, in the Small Cart's Like, the .22-250 Rem and .223 Rem ? ( for 50, 52 up to 60 grain, Bullets ? )Which is incomplete by not listing ADI whom makes many of Hodgdon's powders:
Powder equivalents
Powder equivalents Note: This table shows only approximate equivalent values within about 5%. Actual burning rates can vary depending on the calibre, firearm, loading components and practices, as well as from powder lot to lot. As a consequence, it must be understood that Australian Munitions...www.adiworldclass.com.au
Here in Downunder NZ ADI is more readily available than most in the chart linked.
It looks to Be, an Equal to, H-4895 ( it supposedly Meters fairly well and is, pretty, Temp, "Stable", I've read ).
Any experiences ? Is is consistent from, Lot to Lot ?? I shoot in 15-20 Degree, Winter weather to, 90 -95* Summer weather and am Looking "Hard" at, THIS, One ,.. TIA
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