How to Swap Barrels on Savage 110 Elite Precision?

[Lopili]

Factory barrels and nuts ... I use a good penetrating oil applied over a few nights. They pop off easy after that even if fitted by a gorilla. I've literally done it with action wrench, nut wrench and rubber mallet whilst sitting on the floor. Hardest for me has been getting a feel for when setting the headspace, used the Go/NoGo which is easiest and then 'adjusted' how far the bolt handle will come down on the No Go, used a Goo and added cellophane to create the No Go, even a fired case and feel. Lots of ways to skin this cat, and however your chamber is set up headspace wise ... adjust your loading dies to suit.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I do not use a barrel vise. Coat the barrel with rosin and wrap a toilet paper tube(s) around it.
I place it in a regular bench vise. I don't use a action wrench. Simply secure the action by hand.
With the head space gauge in place slowly tighten the nut. When the proper head space is achieved then torque to your spec. I also recommend the hex type barrel nut. I believe I got a TROMIX brand (?) nut. That way you can use an open end wrench. Comes in handy when swapping barrels with a scope base mounted on the receiver.

Thanks for the tip on Tromix hex nut!
I also found you can order online precision recoil lugs from E Arthur Brown Co.https://tromix.com/product/savage-barrel-nut-flat-side/
https://eabco.com/savage-accuracy-recoil-lug-matte-stainless/

 

[jelenko]

I do not use a barrel vise. Coat the barrel with rosin and wrap a toilet paper tube(s) around it.
I place it in a regular bench vise. I don't use a action wrench. Simply secure the action by hand.
With the head space gauge in place slowly tighten the nut. When the proper head space is achieved then torque to your spec. I also recommend the hex type barrel nut. I believe I got a TROMIX brand (?) nut. That way you can use a open end wrench. Comes in handy when swapping barrels with a scope base mounted on the receiver.

Somewhat similar, I use Brownells 'soft jaws' in a 4" bench vise with rosin.
Admittedly, I've never had to remove a factory nut. I've always started with just the action and a barrel.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

^^^You guys do leave the go gauge in while tightening the the barrel and nut down then?

 

[2-Stroke Dirt Devil]

Savage Elite Precision in .308. I used Grizzly Bald Eagle barrel vise with a strip of thin leather.
Stock nut was incredibly hard to loosen.
Got with Jason Danley (Danley Precision), who reamed a Bisley .308 chamber in a Bartlein barrel, threaded and shouldered barrel instead of going back with barrel nut mounting.

Great work and great guy.

 

[RCE1]

^^^You guys do leave the go gauge in while tightening the the barrel and nut down then?

No. I've never done that. I always take it out, tighten everything, then check it both with and without tape. It's quite a bit about feel, so the bolt should be stripped of ejector and some say extractor as well.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

No. I've never done that. I always take it out, tighten everything, then check it both with and without tape. It's quite a bit about feel, so the bolt should be stripped of ejector and some say extractor as well.

Good deal, Thanks.
Just trying to learn and it’s hard to get the meaning on all of the posts.

 

[waltk]

^^^You guys do leave the go gauge in while tightening the the barrel and nut down then?

I do leave the go gauge in when I tighten the nut. Then operate the bolt for feel and function.
I use a go and a no go gauge to eliminate the hassle of using tape.
I have tried the partially stripped bolt method and full bolt.
I find no problem with the full bolt method. Works for me.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I do leave the go gauge in when I tighten the nut. Then operate the bolt for feel and function.
I use a go and a no go gauge to eliminate the hassle of using tape.
I have tried the partially stripped bolt method and full bolt.
I find no problem with the full bolt method. Works for me.

Thank You Sir.

 

[DShortt]

I still do them that way. Powdered sugar makes an excellent rosin to grip the barrel and not mark it.View attachment 1629416View attachment 1629417

This is my solution. Powdered sugar. Torque the bolts until the White Oak starts 'popping'. No marks to date. Never failed to remove a barrel

 

[DHuffman]

I was on Northland's website this morning and I don't see where he sells a barrel vise. But then I don't see a lot of things. Targets mostly.

I want a one-stop shop for a barrel vise, wrench, go/ no-go gauges and a muzzle thread protector. This is due to shipping costs. Throw it all in a box and ship it to me. Just don't want to piece-meal it out to different vendors. Unless I buy here used.

Thanks, for the advice.

James @ Northland should have everything you need.

 

[Fast14riot]

^^^You guys do leave the go gauge in while tightening the the barrel and nut down then?

I will state that I do not own nor have ever removed a savage barrel. My experience is with Remage barrels and even some if those have been ridiculously tight when I got them. Never had a barrel slip in an oak block with powdered sugar, even when I needed a small sledge to beat the snot out of a nut wrench.

 

[SKWERLZ]

I do leave the go gauge in when I tighten the nut. Then operate the bolt for feel and function.

Same!

On factory tight nuts holding the barrel and action secured while breaking the nut free is helpful.