How to Swap Barrels on Savage 110 Elite Precision?

[Mark W]

To remove an original barrel nut you will probably need heat, or saw it enough to split it off. So a barrel nut wrench becomes all you will need.

I never had that problem. Just slide the barrel nut wrench into place and install the barrel into a barrel vice. A few light taps on the wrench with a smallish machinists hammer will get it moving. Once it’s loose, just screw the action off of the barrel. Easy peasy.

 

[CharlieNC]

I never had that problem. Just slide the barrel nut wrench into place and install the barrel into a barrel vice. A few light taps on the wrench with a smallish machinists hammer will get it moving. Once it’s loose, just screw the action off of the barrel. Easy peasy.

Obviously our experience is different. Many on the Savageshooters forum reported barrels were torqued by a gorilla lol. I will add that this is especially the case for barrels blued when affixed to the actions, but I have not removed a factory stainless which could be different.

 

[Dgd6mm]

I've taken off over 30 and probably 40 factory Savage barrels. I've never had to cut on one.

 

[Mark W]

Obviously our experience is different. Many on the Savageshooters forum reported barrels were torqued by a gorilla lol. I will add that this is especially the case for barrels blued when affixed to the actions, but I have not removed a factory stainless which could be different.

I’ve done stainless and blued as I described Neither presented any issue removing the barrel, but it can be a little tricky getting the nut off of a blued barrel.

With that said, I always use a new nut and recoil lug from NSS, so I wouldn’t hesitate to cut one off if needed.

Edit: I just wanted to add that I am not discounting your experience, only sharing mine. The next one I do could be installed by the proverbial gorilla that you mentioned.

 

[Fast14riot]

I’ve done a bunch with nothing more than a barrel vise, a wrench for the barrel nut, and a hammer. The first several were done with a homemade barrel vise made out of an oak block drilled out, cut in half, and squeezed with a plain old bench vise.

I still do them that way. Powdered sugar makes an excellent rosin to grip the barrel and not mark it.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Take that Savage wrench nut and throw it in a drawer. Replace it with a 1.25" hex barrel nut and you will never go back.

 

[Mark W]

I still do them that way. Powdered sugar makes an excellent rosin to grip the barrel and not mark

Yeah, the wood blocks do work, but you must drill and cut with the grain in the proper orientation like you did, or it will crack the first time it’s tightened up in the vice. You probably don’t have to ask how I know….lol

 

[KMW 1954]

Northland does not sell Barrel vices. They do sell an Action wrench, nut wrench and go-no go gauges.

If you will be finding yourself doing more than one barrel change I suggest obtaining all those along with a barrel vice as you will need one if ever changing a Remington type barrel. If you happen across one of the smooth barrel nuts, all I can offer is good luck and again you will find both the Action wrench and the barrel vice invaluable.

 

[waltk]

I do not use a barrel vise. Coat the barrel with rosin and wrap a toilet paper tube(s) around it.
I place it in a regular bench vise. I don't use a action wrench. Simply secure the action by hand.
With the head space gauge in place slowly tighten the nut. When the proper head space is achieved then torque to your spec. I also recommend the hex type barrel nut. I believe I got a TROMIX brand (?) nut. That way you can use a open end wrench. Comes in handy when swapping barrels with a scope base mounted on the receiver.

 

[Fast14riot]

Yeah, the wood blocks do work, but you must drill and cut with the grain in the proper orientation like you did, or it will crack the first time it’s tightened up in the vice. You probably don’t have to ask how I know….lol

Yeah, split then across the grain and you'd be lucky to tighten it down enough to just hold a full rifle steady! I have a few with different diameter holes, I split them on a tablesaw to give a larger gap/kerf. I have a friend whose husband is a finish carpenter/furniture maker and saved me the dried oak scraps. Its hard, heavy wood, 2" thick. My bench vise is only a 4" and is plenty to hold a complete F/open by the barrel.

 

[NorCalMikie]

A barrel vise, an action vise and/ a Savage nut (large or small) wrench? A Go/ No Go in 6mm Creedmoor. Do I need both?

I see vises popping up in the classifieds and would like to get me one. I'm thinking the barrel vise, a wrench and Go/ No go gauges are all I need. Right?

First question. You gunna shoot factory loaded ammo or roll your own?
Factory loaded ammo? Get a gauge. Home rolled, set the head space to YOUR ammo.
You will probably NOT be changing barrels that often so maybe think about passing on an action wrench?
Got a Wheeler Action wrench. It clamped the action to the barrel so tight that I had to take it off to turn the barrel out of the action. Used it once then stuck it under the bench, never to be used again.
Have changed a BUNCH of barrels with no action wrench needed.
A good WRAP with a steel hammer on the nut wrench will break it loose. You can pull and cuss all you want and it may never break loose!!
Same going back on. Set the head space, SMACK the nut wrench with a STEEL hammer, double check the head space and go shooting.
Barrel clamped in the vice in a thick rag will hold it enough to break the nut loose. Once loose, reverse the process.
First time? Might consider a smith to break the nut loose. From then on, nothing to it.
Again, "steel hammer" to SMACK the nut wrench to loosen and re tighten. The SHOCK of the SMACK (steel on steel) will loosen and tighten the nut. NEVER had any of mine come loose!!
Nut torque? Think snug than the steel on steel SMACK!!

 

[jelenko]

As mentioned, the tough part is getting the factory barrel off. The nut can be on pretty tight.

Otherwise, I've been using Brownells vise blocks to change nutted barrels. I've been holding the barrel in the vise blocks and screwing the action on/off. About 1 in 4 times the action moves as I'm tightening the nut and I simply redo it. I started with an action wrench from NSS, but soon figured out I didn't need it.
As the bench blocks got used over time, I've added rosin to keep the barrel from moving.
I do have go and no go gauges, but just a go gauge with tape on the bottom works.
I've always targeted 45 - 50 ftlbs for the nut. I use an 18" wrench with my calibrated arm to feel like I'm picking up a 30 lb bag of dog food - plus a scooch.

 

[Blackthorn]

Here are my Savage barrel tools. 3# dead blow hammer, Wheeler wrench, and a go gauge. I also have a nut wrench I got when I assembled an Eliseo Chassis works good with a crowsfoot wrench and a Holland jig for holding the recoil lug straight when I put the barrel back on. The other photo is the Wheeler wrench for smooth nuts. Works pretty good
I have only had one nut I had to use a dremel on and that was on a Savage Striker pistol. It didn’t want to give up the ghost but with a little persuasion it did
I use a dead blow instead of a steel hammer is I hate buggering up a wrench. No reason to create a superior hand cutting tool. I have enough of those in my shop.
My vise is a Grizzly which I purchased years ago after reading an article in the AS bulletin.

 

[slm9s]

To save the $ on go/no go gauges, some rubes in dirt poor areas of the country have been known to put two pieces of scotch tape on the head of a new piece of brass, chamber it, and set your headspace right there. The horror!!!

 

[Xerothermic]

First question. You gunna shoot factory loaded ammo or roll your own?
Factory loaded ammo? Get a gauge. Home rolled, set the head space to YOUR ammo.
You will probably NOT be changing barrels that often so maybe think about passing on an action wrench?
Got a Wheeler Action wrench. It clamped the action to the barrel so tight that I had to take it off to turn the barrel out of the action. Used it once then stuck it under the bench, never to be used again.
Have changed a BUNCH of barrels with no action wrench needed.
A good WRAP with a steel hammer on the nut wrench will break it loose. You can pull and cuss all you want and it may never break loose!!
Same going back on. Set the head space, SMACK the nut wrench with a STEEL hammer, double check the head space and go shooting.
Barrel clamped in the vice in a thick rag will hold it enough to break the nut loose. Once loose, reverse the process.
First time? Might consider a smith to break the nut loose. From then on, nothing to it.
Again, "steel hammer" to SMACK the nut wrench to loosen and re tighten. The SHOCK of the SMACK (steel on steel) will loosen and tighten the nut. NEVER had any of mine come loose!!
Nut torque? Think snug than the steel on steel SMACK!!

Very detailed yet understandable. Thanks, for that. I reload and have 250 Starline in 6 Creedmoor staring at me as I type. A new cartridge for me coming off of a 6mm Remington.

 

[Dgd6mm]

Have you ordered any tools yet?

 

[Xerothermic]

Have you ordered any tools yet?

I have not.

 

[DShortt]

Yeah, the wood blocks do work, but you must drill and cut with the grain in the proper orientation like you did, or it will crack the first time it’s tightened up in the vice. You probably don’t have to ask how I know….lol

Use White Oak. Use powdered sugar. A lot of it. Make a mess.

Problem solved.

 

[Mark W]

Use White Oak. Use powdered sugar. A lot of it. Make a mess.

Problem solved.

I‘ve been using rosin, and I’ve not had a problem except for cutting my blocks with the grain in the wrong direction the first time. After that everything went easy peasy. I use a Viper barrel vice now though.

 

[DShortt]

I‘ve been using rosin, and I’ve not had a problem except for cutting my blocks with the grain in the wrong direction the first time. After that everything went easy peasy. I use a Viper barrel vice now though.

Rosin is something I've not tried. I was turned on to powdered sugar early on and it's all I've ever used. Always some in the kitchen, too so nothing to buy.