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Sticking cases

spudgun

Ok, I dont know where to turn now.

Reaching out to the knowledge bases...

I have a Savage Model 12 LV, 6.5 CM. I do reload and have been since the 70's. I have never had a issue like this. Maybe someone can give me some direction.

I have 2, 6.5 CM. One is factory spec and the other is a lite gun build with a Brux barrel.

On my factory savage I was going to set it up for class F shooting. I wanted to keep my brass separate from the 2, 6.5's so on my lite gun I am using Starling SP brass. On the F class I am using Hornady brass LP.

On the Savage model 12, I noticed that after I fired about 4 rounds the brass was very difficult to eject. I could raise the bolt but had to hit the bolt backwards to get the brass to come out of the chamber. I took it home and cleaned the chamber with a brush and solvent.

Went to the range again and same thing. Checked the chamber with a bore scope and noticed a kinda yellow film in the chamber. Thinking the yellow film maybe the sizing lube being transferred to the chamber after each shot and causing the brass to stick. Cleaned the chamber again and wiped off any excess lube off the brass after seating bullet.

Went back to the range and again after 4-5 shots the brass started sticking again.

Came home and got aggressive with the chamber. I uses a 20 GA bronze brush with solvent and drill and really scrubbed the chamber. Then I took another brush and wrapped green scotch brite pad around it dipped in solvent and went into the chamber again. After a several seconds I then sprayed brake cleaner in the chamber to get any residue out. Ran some cleaning patches in the chamber and down the bore.

Took my bore scope and inspected the chamber and all looked good.

Went to the range again, after 5-6 rounds the brass started sticking. Now I took my loaded Starling brass reloads and guess what, not a problem after 10 rounds. The starling brass ejected just like they should. Barrel temp at t,his point was at 120 degrees.

Came home and measured the outside of the brass on both Hornady and Starline. Measured the base, the top of the base web (where the brass gets thinner), the top of the case (just below the shoulder and the outside of the neck.

At the base measured .472-.470 On both brasses.
At the top of the web .474 -.473 on both cases.
Top of case was .463-.464 on both.
The neck was .295-294.
Overall length of both cases was 1.92"

The brass did not show and scratches on the cases where maybe something was causing them to stick.

I use the same SB die on both brasses.

I guess I could start using Starline brass, but would I would like to solve this issue just for my sanity sake.

I guess I could buy a small rubber mallet.......
 
Next you need to resize 10 to 20 pieces of the fired brass and take measurements. Compare the dimensional measurements between the two brands.
 
spudgun said:
I use the same SB die on both brasses.
Click to expand...
A small base die to fl size?
Should not be needed when keeping brass separate between guns.
Size a few fired brass with shell holder in full contact with the bottom of the SB die. If problem still exists, buy new RCBS full length die.
At the base measured .472-.470 On both brasses.
At the top of the web .474 -.473 on both cases.
Top of case was .463-.464 on both.
The neck was .295-294.
Overall length of both cases was 1.92"
Click to expand...

Should not be larger then SAAMI.20250527_184732.jpg
 
Last edited:
ShtrRdy said:
Next you need to resize 10 to 20 pieces of the fired brass and take measurements. Compare the dimensional measurements between the two brands.
Click to expand...

Since I use the same sizing die and shell holder for both brasses

But since you asked:
Starline Hornady
.469 .469
.463 .463
.280 .280

Same measurement sequence
 
If you are actually wiping sizing lube of your cases in the field, you should look to your reloading process. Those cases should be clean and dry. In a F-Class match, there is a lot of dust generated.

You state "Overall length of both cases was 1.92". Saami spec for chamber end is 1.925. I recommend trimming the case back 0.005". Might be something there.

And the SB die is overkill, the dimensions you quote for the base and top of the web are on the large size and a regular die will work better. Less working of the brass. Unless you have a reason for SB die.

I used Hornady brass for awhile but rejected it for various reasons. It is soft.
 
243winxb said:
A small base die to fl size?
Should not be needed when keeping brass separate between guns.
Size a few fired brass with shell holder in full contact with the bottom of the SB die. If problem still exists, buy new RCBS full length die.


Should not be larger then SAAMI.View attachment 1664288
Click to expand...
This is my 4 th barrel on the Light gun. If I remember, one of the prefit barrels form a earlier barrel swap I had issues with the base of the brass being a bit too large for the chamber of the barrel. No longer using that barrel as I shot it out. This is why I went to a SB die. That was about 5 years ago.

I adjust the die so I get a cam over feel when fully sized.
 
My first thought is, are you FLS or neck sizing?
I didn't see it mentioned in the thread.

Edit- Nevermind. I see you're using a SB die. Are you using it every time? Kinda bothers me that it appears your web measurement is .474-.473" if I read that right.
Take a couple of the fired cases that stick and are unsized and cover them with black or blue magic marker. Allow to dry completely. Chamber and extract. It's likely you'll see exactly where it's too tight.
 
Last edited:
47WillysGuy said:
If you are actually wiping sizing lube of your cases in the field, you should look to your reloading process.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. The case and chamber should be clean of anything.
It’s a long explanation for the cases but all you have to do is be sure they are clean.
And as stated if you’re wiping sizing lube off in the field…. an invitation to huge problems.
 
DShortt said:
My first thought is, are you FLS or neck sizing?
I didn't see it mentioned in the thread.

Edit- Nevermind. I see you're using a SB die. Are you using it every time? Kinda bothers me that it appears your web measurement is .474-.473" if I read that right.
Take a couple of the fired cases that stick and are unsized and cover them with black or blue magic marker. Allow to dry completely. Chamber and extract. It's likely you'll see exactly where it's too tight.
Click to expand...
That's my next step...

Thanks
 
M-61 said:
Absolutely. The case and chamber should be clean of anything.
It’s a long explanation for the cases but all you have to do is be sure they are clean.
And as stated if you’re wiping sizing lube off in the field…. an invitation to huge problems.
Click to expand...
No, I wipe them off just after I reload them. NOT in the field.
 
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