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6.5 Creedmoor - Stuck with where to go next

I'll preface this by I'm new to reloading and I like think I did my research but I just don't know where to go next. My rifle is a stock Ruger Precision Rifle, 24" 1-8 Barrel. I am using Hornady brass for these tests that was originally factory that I fired in this rifle only. As far as brass prep, I clean, Deprime, FL size with a .002 shoulder bump (from a fired case using a redding non bushing die), trim to 1.910, and chamfer/debur.

I did follow Erik Cortina's method for finding jam and measured that at 2.905, so I seated the bullets .02 off of that for 2.885 COL. I made this change after the first two rounds of load development. So I'm sure that could have some effect on my group size, but I was out for more details on MV, SD, ES on that third test because I didn't track those in the first two like an idiot.

The 39.4 load seems pretty promising it was very flat just a bit wide, same with the 40.1. The 41, I highlighted in red because I feel like I just shot terrible. The third test was also 5 shot groups instead of 3.

The ultimate goal for this load is 1000+ Yards. I'm not really sure where to go next. I have zero signs of pressure and the brass has been fired 4 times. I was contemplating between trying seating depths on some of the low SD nodes or seeing about going higher in charge to get closer to 2750 MV. I'm concerned about the velocities knowing I want to go out to 1000 or more. From my ballistics app the 39.4 should still be 1300fps at 1000 but it makes me nervous with my limited knowledge. Hornady has 41.5 listed as the max for this bullet and their cases.

Appreciate any insight you all have. I also have 100 factory new Hornady brass that i could load up and completely restart if you all think its a good idea.


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41.5 grs. is a well known good place to start. Shoot at 100, 200, 300 ,400 and 500 yards. Get your dope for those ranges and keep shooting and shooting and shooting. Practice all you can until you feel ready to move out to longer distances. Learn how to read the wind.
 
41.5 grs. is a well known good place to start. Shoot at 100, 200, 300 ,400 and 500 yards. Get your dope for those ranges and keep shooting and shooting and shooting. Practice all you can until you feel ready to move out to longer distances. Learn how to read the wind.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question but are you suggesting to just pick the 41.5gr load and shoot it at longer distances. I was trying to get a get a load ready that was accurate and consistent at 100, then work on Dope out to 1k. I have not taken it out to distance yet just because the 1k range is 3 hours from me and I wanted a load first to really test. I also can't read the wind yet, which I'm well aware of lol so lots of practice is in the cards but I was always planning to do it with my load for this rifle, but maybe that's stupid though.

I generally am in love with this reloading stuff, it really stimulates my ADHD brain but I also don't want to waste components doing stupid tests.
 
My rpr loves 40grs of h4350 under a 140gr berger hybrid....1 hole at 100yrds
I've tried more powder and only picked up pressure signs and no velocity...
 
My rpr loves 40grs of h4350 under a 140gr berger hybrid....1 hole at 100yrds
I've tried more powder and only picked up pressure signs and no velocity...
What kinda velocity you getting? Ultimately I just need to make sure it stays super at 1k, but the 2550 just seems slow lol.

I took a 1000yard class and I’m hooked.
 
My notes say I'm getting 2620fps...
I should probably add that I'm using lapua srp brass and jumping @50 thou
I've shot this at 1k several times and if I do my part it does its part..
 
I didn't see where you mentioned what bullet you were using. As mentioned above 41.5gr of H4350 is generally a good load with a 140 class bullet. A couple other things you may want to check is overall length. My experience with ruger rifles is mag length is generally right at 2.800" I would do my load development around a mag length seating depth if you plan on feeding from the mag. Also double check your action screws are tight in that chassis.
 
I don't use Hornady brass, but I've heard others complain it is only good for a few reloads. Maybe someone with more experience using Hornady can chime in with hands on results. I'd suggest getting better quality brass such as Peterson or Lapua for better consistency before you get too deep into tuning a load.
 
I didn't see where you mentioned what bullet you were using. As mentioned above 41.5gr of H4350 is generally a good load with a 140 class bullet. A couple other things you may want to check is overall length. My experience with ruger rifles is mag length is generally right at 2.800" I would do my load development around a mag length seating depth if you plan on feeding from the mag. Also double check your action screws are tight in that chassis.

I didn't even open the mags that came with it, I had MDT mags that I'm using. I will definitely check the action screws. I didn't actually mention the bullets now that I read it again, but I did have them in the Data I should add that in the post. I'm also shooting suppressed with a nomad XC ti.

My 308 AR-10 really struggled at the class past 900 with 178gr Hornady match factory ammo. It did amazing through 800 though. That prompted the RPR in 6.5 CM. Then watching Erik Cortina got me wanting to reload lol. I spent a lot of time on his forum and videos, Ultimate Reloader and thehighroad, before coming here as well. Although I have read a lot on here figured it was time to start talking too.

Right now I'm leaning towards some seating depth tests on my 39.4, 40, and 41.

@Hemipowrd I have read that two in a few places. I have some virgin hornady brass that I have only resized so far. Maybe I'll trim that and do my next test on those. My only issue with going to Lapua is its Small rifle primers and I don't have any :(. I was thinking of Starline Large Rifle brass as well, or I could just bite the bullet and get some SR primers and use the large ones for other loads. I do plan to load my .308 at some point in time.

Edit: I'm dumb, not sure how I missed lapua LRP 6.5 brass. I may just pick some up.
 
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I didn't even open the mags that came with it, I had MDT mags that I'm using. I will definitely check the action screws. I didn't actually mention the bullets now that I read it again, but I did have them in the Data I should add that in the post. I'm also shooting suppressed with a nomad XC ti.

My 308 AR-10 really struggled at the class past 900 with 178gr Hornady match factory ammo. It did amazing through 800 though. That prompted the RPR in 6.5 CM. Then watching Erik Cortina got me wanting to reload lol. I spent a lot of time on his forum and videos, Ultimate Reloader and thehighroad, before coming here as well. Although I have read a lot on here figured it was time to start talking too.

Right now I'm leaning towards some seating depth tests on my 39.4, 40, and 41.

@Hemipowrd I have read that two in a few places. I have some virgin hornady brass that I have only resized so far. Maybe I'll trim that and do my next test on those. My only issue with going to Lapua is its Small rifle primers and I don't have any :(. I was thinking of Starline Large Rifle brass as well, or I could just bite the bullet and get some SR primers and use the large ones for other loads. I do plan to load my .308 at some point in time.

Edit: I'm dumb, not sure how I missed lapua LRP 6.5 brass. I may just pick some up.
Just do your test at 40 and start seating them deeper at.002 at a time and see if they make one hole. You can then go back to the powder charge.
 
You are.035 longer than Hornady’s recommended length.
I know that, I found my jam point and went .02 back. I don't think it likes being that close to the rifling though and will eventually do a bullet seating depth test when I find my charge weight. I'm not in the rifling and everything chambers and ejects fine. I have zero pressure signs or any issues with the cases after firing. from everything I have read that is perfectly safe as long as I'm watching for all the signs.

I like your idea of just finding the ideal seating depth before going back to charges. I think I will do that.
 
Y
I know that, I found my jam point and went .02 back. I don't think it likes being that close to the rifling though and will eventually do a bullet seating depth test when I find my charge weight. I'm not in the rifling and everything chambers and ejects fine. I have zero pressure signs or any issues with the cases after firing. from everything I have read that is perfectly safe as long as I'm watching for all the signs.

I like your idea of just finding the ideal seating depth before going back to charges. I think I will do that.
You know you’re pretty long without pressure so just going deeper a little at a time is going to make it a fun project.
 
Forgive me if this is a dumb question but are you suggesting to just pick the 41.5gr load and shoot it at longer distances. I was trying to get a get a load ready that was accurate and consistent at 100, then work on Dope out to 1k. I have not taken it out to distance yet just because the 1k range is 3 hours from me and I wanted a load first to really test. I also can't read the wind yet, which I'm well aware of lol so lots of practice is in the cards but I was always planning to do it with my load for this rifle, but maybe that's stupid though.

I generally am in love with this reloading stuff, it really stimulates my ADHD brain but I also don't want to waste components doing stupid tests.
Yes, I would load up some at 41.5 and 41.4 and maybe 41.6. The 41.4 load was best but I would not put my faith in that at this point. 100 yards is just a starting point. At 300 yards some loads will give the same groups at 300 as they do at 100. And some will be 3" groups. 41.5 is a wide node. You can fine tune it later. The 40. grain load is accurate also. But you want velocity if you are going out to 1000 yards. I also have the same rifle you have and it is a great factory rifle. A great place to start. Shooting at longer ranges is going to make you a better shot because you have to work harder on your techniques. A 3 hr. drive is a long way. I would plan on spending the day and take my cleaning kit with me and shoot as much as I could so you can see what happens at 300 yards with those loads. Also, with that chamber, 147 gr ELD bullets will shoot just fine at 1000 yards with. .015- .020 off the lands or mag. length. Same with the Sierra bullets. Or Hornady 130 gr. ELD bullets at 2.800". Those bullets will be very accurate in that rifle. You also need a sled magazine that will allow you to single load longer bullets at some point. I would start with Hornady 130 GR ELD bullets at 2.800" Mag. Length. They are very forgiving.
 
Yes, I would load up some at 41.5 and 41.4 and maybe 41.6. The 41.4 load was best but I would not put my faith in that at this point. 100 yards is just a starting point. At 300 yards some loads will give the same groups at 300 as they do at 100. And some will be 3" groups. 41.5 is a wide node. You can fine tune it later. The 40. grain load is accurate also. But you want velocity if you are going out to 1000 yards. I also have the same rifle you have and it is a great factory rifle. A great place to start. Shooting at longer ranges is going to make you a better shot because you have to work harder on your techniques. A 3 hr. drive is a long way. I would plan on spending the day and take my cleaning kit with me and shoot as much as I could so you can see what happens at 300 yards with those loads. Also, with that chamber, 147 gr ELD bullets will shoot just fine at 1000 yards with. .015- .020 off the lands or mag. length. Same with the Sierra bullets. Or Hornady 130 gr. ELD bullets at 2.800". Those bullets will be very accurate in that rifle. You also need a sled magazine that will allow you to single load longer bullets at some point. I would start with Hornady 130 GR ELD bullets at 2.800" Mag. Length. They are very forgiving.

Yeah the 3 hours while not terrible means I'm planning for a long day of shooting hah. Appreciate the advice.
 
40.0 /H4350 Lapua Brass with 140 ELDM at.025 off (2.225 to ogive). Gets me 2770 fps. 3/8" at 100 with my Savage. The elds like lots of jump. I've had this load out to 1200 & it works just fine.
 
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I might be treading on heresy a bit but in my first 3 barrels i could not get my 6.5 CM's to group with H4350. I must have been the only person in the entire world who couldn't get H4350 to work. However, my rifles group fantastically (-.2's) with slower burning rates such as n160 and H4831 using the heavier bullets. With the 135 class bullets I am using IMR 4064 and that works extremely well.
My suggestion is to try something other than H4350.
 
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If I might tread on heresy a bit but in my first 3 barrels i could not get my 6.5 CM's to group with H4350. I must have been the only person in the entire world who couldn't get H4350 to work. However, my rifles group fantastically (-.2's) with slower burning rates such as n160 and H4831 using the heavier bullets. With the 135 class bullets I am using IMR 4064 and that works extremely well.
My suggestion is to try something other than H4350.
Accurate 4350 falls into that slower category also.
 

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