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Blown out primers and pressure signs

I read the first 5 pages skimming thru them. First off IO will say EVERYONE should learn to load EVERY rifle as if it were a custom built wildcat!

This makes every rifle perfectly taylored to the bullets it shoots! I have not owned a factory chambered rifle in over 30 years, but the ones I had before that were not always in perfect spec with the generic specs they were supposed to be. But in the past 30 years I have learned the fail safe way to taylor ammo, AS LONG AS THE BARREL IS WHAT IT IS SUPOSED TO BE AS FAR AS THE CALIBER IT IS DESIGNATED AT. Meaning not a .239 6mm bore instead of .243.

I start with a bullet that I seat long and coat the ogive area above and below it with a magic marker, I seat the cartridge under a closed bolt and remove it, with good neck tension you will eject it and see the lands on the bullet, or light neck tension will leave it in the lands. either way you know you have to seat deeper. I will continue to seat .010" deeper ion the case until I have no mark. then I will pull the bullet, and seat a new one back to where the last marks from the rifling were shown. Personally I will start load development there, knowing I am in the lands no more than .010" in the lands.

This lets me back out after I find slight signs of pressure, which are any sign of heavier bolt lift, or once I see any expansion at the base of the cartridge over .001". Then I will note which charge shot the best, but I have found my MAX charge weight for that powder bullet combo.

Once I find what charge shot the best, I use the charge to start loading 3 cases at a time seating .003" farther off the lands and testing that group, then I repeat another .003" further off the lands etc etc untill I am .010" off, seldom I ever and personally I have never found a load the shot better over 10 to 12 thousanths off or in the lands. That is my sweet spot for reloads. especially for Bench rest competition, and yes,, we load HOT!

But you will not find a single top accuracy shooter that does not bump .002" to .003" on their shoulders, they all bump, and they all FL resize. none load by a load manual after starting with their minimum load charge weight. once you get more experienced, you can load powders without having any load data to follow, but understanding burn rates and common sense become mandatory.

As for the cases you have, personally I would pitch them, I would not even allow another shooter to load them, I think they are junk now that they have been loaded improperly enough to have no idea from one to the next what they have been subjected to. The doughnuts are no problem. My K&M neck turner is available with inside neck cutting mandrels I use if I need to remove doughnuts. But some have been over stressed and some stressed, and some subjected to no stress?????

I also would start over now with NEW LAPUA brass, it is the best brass you can buy in every caliber, It is all I use for all my wildcats and sammi cartridges. Alpha may have a few cartridges covered that are as good a cases, but not for 257 Roberts, 270 winchester, etc, that is where I use 8x57 Lapua cases or 30/06 even my 338/06 or a 35 Whelan would use Lapua 30/06 cases necked properly.

Once you do as I said above the only other concern would be neck diameter. That first fired case with a starting load should accept an unfired bullet and fall without help in and back out. Once this is assured, mic the neck for diameter. and record it, then after you resize the case, mic the neck again, and record that, finally load the case and seat your bullet and mic the neck again, I never allow less than .002" neck expansion once I seat the bullet, even a .005" larger neck once seated from the sized nec dimension is acceptable unless it larger than you got when you checked the fired neck diameter.

I am only scratching this subject and not real good and explaining this. But neck size understanding is important, seating depth is NOT COAL! It is ogive to the base of the cartridge is all that matters, the only time COAL matters, is if you are fitting a round to work inside a restricted magazine. bit COAL does not matter as long your cartridge will load the way you want to use it. Ogive to base matters as this is what changes pressure, as well as what is used to tune accuracy with any load.

Never load any bullet deep enough to come in contact with doughnuts in your neck, this is never good! But it easily eliminated!
 
Has anyone actually had these pressure signs/problems from seating into donuts?

Or does it just cause erratic es/sd? From slightly raised pressure?

Blown primers and smeared brass rims?IDK just don't seem right

Generally in my experience donuts cause poor es/sd no pressure signs...but I'm far from expert for seating into donuts and somehow what little I've noticed doesn't cause me problems
I haven’t, just ES issues.
 
Having read through this, your persistent yet infrequent problem of blown primers, has this brass been subject to your original load that was into the lands? If so, that brass has been subjected to in excess of 70,000 PSI. Scrap the brass. All of it that has been fired with these high-pressure loads.
 
Having read through this, your persistent yet infrequent problem of blown primers, has this brass been subject to your original load that was into the lands? If so, that brass has been subjected to in excess of 70,000 PSI. Scrap the brass. All of it that has been fired with these high-pressure loads.
Nothing was ever into the lands. I made a modified case for my COAL gauge using my own brass and I was at least 20 thou off the lands.

I also used two different types of brass to try to rule out an issue with the brass.
 
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I read the first 5 pages skimming thru them. First off IO will say EVERYONE should learn to load EVERY rifle as if it were a custom built wildcat!

This makes every rifle perfectly taylored to the bullets it shoots! I have not owned a factory chambered rifle in over 30 years, but the ones I had before that were not always in perfect spec with the generic specs they were supposed to be. But in the past 30 years I have learned the fail safe way to taylor ammo, AS LONG AS THE BARREL IS WHAT IT IS SUPOSED TO BE AS FAR AS THE CALIBER IT IS DESIGNATED AT. Meaning not a .239 6mm bore instead of .243.

I start with a bullet that I seat long and coat the ogive area above and below it with a magic marker, I seat the cartridge under a closed bolt and remove it, with good neck tension you will eject it and see the lands on the bullet, or light neck tension will leave it in the lands. either way you know you have to seat deeper. I will continue to seat .010" deeper ion the case until I have no mark. then I will pull the bullet, and seat a new one back to where the last marks from the rifling were shown. Personally I will start load development there, knowing I am in the lands no more than .010" in the lands.

This lets me back out after I find slight signs of pressure, which are any sign of heavier bolt lift, or once I see any expansion at the base of the cartridge over .001". Then I will note which charge shot the best, but I have found my MAX charge weight for that powder bullet combo.

Once I find what charge shot the best, I use the charge to start loading 3 cases at a time seating .003" farther off the lands and testing that group, then I repeat another .003" further off the lands etc etc untill I am .010" off, seldom I ever and personally I have never found a load the shot better over 10 to 12 thousanths off or in the lands. That is my sweet spot for reloads. especially for Bench rest competition, and yes,, we load HOT!

But you will not find a single top accuracy shooter that does not bump .002" to .003" on their shoulders, they all bump, and they all FL resize. none load by a load manual after starting with their minimum load charge weight. once you get more experienced, you can load powders without having any load data to follow, but understanding burn rates and common sense become mandatory.

As for the cases you have, personally I would pitch them, I would not even allow another shooter to load them, I think they are junk now that they have been loaded improperly enough to have no idea from one to the next what they have been subjected to. The doughnuts are no problem. My K&M neck turner is available with inside neck cutting mandrels I use if I need to remove doughnuts. But some have been over stressed and some stressed, and some subjected to no stress?????

I also would start over now with NEW LAPUA brass, it is the best brass you can buy in every caliber, It is all I use for all my wildcats and sammi cartridges. Alpha may have a few cartridges covered that are as good a cases, but not for 257 Roberts, 270 winchester, etc, that is where I use 8x57 Lapua cases or 30/06 even my 338/06 or a 35 Whelan would use Lapua 30/06 cases necked properly.

Once you do as I said above the only other concern would be neck diameter. That first fired case with a starting load should accept an unfired bullet and fall without help in and back out. Once this is assured, mic the neck for diameter. and record it, then after you resize the case, mic the neck again, and record that, finally load the case and seat your bullet and mic the neck again, I never allow less than .002" neck expansion once I seat the bullet, even a .005" larger neck once seated from the sized nec dimension is acceptable unless it larger than you got when you checked the fired neck diameter.

I am only scratching this subject and not real good and explaining this. But neck size understanding is important, seating depth is NOT COAL! It is ogive to the base of the cartridge is all that matters, the only time COAL matters, is if you are fitting a round to work inside a restricted magazine. bit COAL does not matter as long your cartridge will load the way you want to use it. Ogive to base matters as this is what changes pressure, as well as what is used to tune accuracy with any load.

Never load any bullet deep enough to come in contact with doughnuts in your neck, this is never good! But it easily eliminated!
That’s the best advise I’ve read on this yet. I have a question about measuring at the base for expansion. Do you measure at the lowest point on body of case above the the rim. Are you measuring the area that surrounds the flash hole? Or the 200 line where it’s thin? I seen a write up years ago talking about how it’s most critical to not let the base of case expand to much and that is pretty much the only true way to check for over pressure. I want to say it was something David tub was talking about. I was thinking he said it couldn’t move some where in the ten thousands area because at the time I didn’t even have a way to measure that small. Anyways I agree op should just scrap all brass and start over with new brass. This post reminds me I havnt been checking any of my cases for donuts. OPs rifle must have a tight neck. I keep thinking about if he is using a bushing die wrong and distorting his necks. I’ve seen pictures of people that lock there bushing down and it is ugly.
 
Why should the brass be scrapped?
It has been overloaded, then mixed in with other cases, even if the primer pockets were not blown out, it is obvious all were not a safe load, and strained brass is a given. I would not trust any of them and expect consistent results.

I buy the best brass in the world, LAPUA for one reason, I want to be sure I have as good as it gets! Shooting and working with brass that could be compromised is not as good as it gets! All this would do reusing it, is leave speculation down the road, was it the load, the brass the gun??? I want to know any inconsistency with anything isn't my brass, with these cases one cant confirm that. If so so is good enough for some, go for it, I'm pretty picky!
 
That’s the best advise I’ve read on this yet. I have a question about measuring at the base for expansion. Do you measure at the lowest point on body of case above the the rim. Are you measuring the area that surrounds the flash hole? Or the 200 line where it’s thin? I seen a write up years ago talking about how it’s most critical to not let the base of case expand to much and that is pretty much the only true way to check for over pressure. I want to say it was something David tub was talking about. I was thinking he said it couldn’t move some where in the ten thousands area because at the time I didn’t even have a way to measure that small. Anyways I agree op should just scrap all brass and start over with new brass. This post reminds me I havnt been checking any of my cases for donuts. OPs rifle must have a tight neck. I keep thinking about if he is using a bushing die wrong and distorting his necks. I’ve seen pictures of people that lock there bushing down and it is ugly.
the solid base right at the web.
 
It’s been haunting me about measuring case head expansion. So I started digging in my reloading books which where I started thinking I probably read it. I found this in an old Lyman manual from 2001ish.
IMG_0294.jpegIMG_0295.jpeg
 
Ken Waters wrote a good explanation of measuring case expansion in the 9-82 Handloader magazine & it was reprinted in the Pet Loads collections. It's why I have a micrometer that reads to .00005" although with practice if I'm wearing glasses a regular old .001" mic is usable. Calipers wont get it, not even (especially :eek: ) digital ones.

Some skill, finesse, & common sense are needed to use this method. Unfortunately, many of the people who are having trouble wrapping their heads around what excess pressure is, or even measuring cartridge/chamber interface & the cause/effect of same are lacking in these necessary skills or the patience to develop them.

Oops... edited out a zero from above. .0005" is 1/2 a thousandth.

Re-edited back to original #. The micrometer display reads as small as 1/2 a tenth.
 
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Maybe I'm getting bad brass? I have yet to shoot a mild load that didn't affect my case heads enough to swell them to .0005" on one firing! The danger of not understanding is trying to teach others false alarms. If you need a mic to read 100/1000" to measure for pressure, your a little more paranoid than me, and I doubt Id ever have been able to compete in bench rest, .0005'' expansion is not high pressure, even with weak brass like Hornady, winchester, or Remington.

Careful shouting wolf,,,,, but hey, until I see close to .001" (.0008"-.001") I rarely find my best load in any bolt action!
 
Maybe I'm getting bad brass? I have yet to shoot a mild load that didn't affect my case heads enough to swell them to .0005" on one firing! The danger of not understanding is trying to teach others false alarms. If you need a mic to read 100/1000" to measure for pressure, your a little more paranoid than me, and I doubt Id ever have been able to compete in bench rest, .0005'' expansion is not high pressure, even with weak brass like Hornady, winchester, or Remington.

Careful shouting wolf,,,,, but hey, until I see close to .001" (.0008"-.001") I rarely find my best load in any bolt action!

Holy crap, you had me 2nd guessing myself. I should know better. ;) Edited above, then revised it back to the original. Thought I was wrong but was mistaken.

Not paranoid, & not shouting wolf. I'm usually very careful what I write & see nothing alarming or paranoid at all in the post above. Not to start a pissing match, but maybe reading comprehension is a problem?

Back when I measured expansion, .001" was about max & absolute stop was at .0015" in a modern bolt gun. Too many variables that way & the juice wasn't worth the proverbial squeeze. Common sense, a good chronograph, case life, keeping good records (including lot #s), & a little experience has relegated the .00005" mic to the back of the drawer. It's there if all else fails unless someone wants to buy it.

1747786115889.gif
 
Holy crap, you had me 2nd guessing myself. I should know better. ;) Edited above, then revised it back to the original. Thought I was wrong but was mistaken.

Not paranoid, & not shouting wolf. I'm usually very careful what I write & see nothing alarming or paranoid at all in the post above. Not to start a pissing match, but maybe reading comprehension is a problem?

Back when I measured expansion, .001" was about max & absolute stop was at .0015" in a modern bolt gun. Too many variables that way & the juice wasn't worth the proverbial squeeze. Common sense, a good chronograph, case life, keeping good records (including lot #s), & a little experience has relegated the .00005" mic to the back of the drawer. It's there if all else fails unless someone wants to buy it.

Like I said I find most powders I use to excell once I see over .008" expansion. I believe this probably has something to do with the way smokeless powder is made to burn, it is at it's most efficient and consistent Under Pressure. Without pressure most smokeless rifle powders are very erratic in the burn rate. As pressure rises we see more consistent velocity, this is because the burn rate gets happy, and is consistent.

But the last thing I look at is my primers, I've seen primers blanked and cratered terribly with oversize firing pin holes and undersize firing pins, where brass has not moved .0005" at the head. I have also see on bushed pin holes with small firing pins that are properly spec'd, not even flatten with crater or over flattening at the edges, and case heads measure as much as .0015". yes It's Time To Stop, but the solid case head knows.

Bolt lift can be a sign as well, but cartridges with a lot of taper, will show this far sooner than straight walled cases. The straighter walled cases do not display the bolt thrust that sharper tapered cases do.

Reloading is also not a written, as manuals can lie! I've had guns that displayed pressure over starting loads, one in particular was decades ago, and this was when I was taught to use the head of the case to tell me when I'm seeing pressure. But the primers didn't tell me that, until I felt heavy bolt lift I didn't know why, till an old gentleman named Fred Sinclair introduced me to keeping an eye on my brass at the head. That was over 50 years ago, and one of the first of many reloading tips Fred shared with me. Nothing I read out of a book.

Today we can't just read out of a book as an absolute. We have many different variables that need addressed to conclude to what is safe and that changes from the same rifle model and chamber to the other. it all matters, and knowing what and why is what matters. the firing system, the chamber dimensions, the dies and loaded round from one set of dies to another, the barrel length, groove, and land depth, the brass cases being used from one to another, different lots of the same powder, as well primers. To many for just one thing to tell us what we are chasing, accuracy and consistency, and that usually comes at or near max pressure, and for me knowing to work up slow and watch the head of the brass when using quality components is my best indicator when I'm still safe, and when I'm starting to get dangerous. Everything else tells me I have concerns with my equipment getting me there.
 
Have you checked to make sure the donuts haven't formed because of the sizing die? This post is becoming like the mini series that leave you hanging for 12 months. WILL Timmy ever get rescued from the well? Will lassie save him in time stay tuned for another exciting episode.
 
It looks like we may have found the problem. I tried pushing an inert cartridge of the 147 grain ELD-Ms in with finger pressure, the bullet was seated to what I thought was 0.020" off the lands but it didn't drop out under its own weight. Even bumping the butt of the rifle didn't dislodge it. I had to push it out with a cleaning rod. I am going to thoroughly clean the rifle and try the test again, but this is promising.
I haven’t finished reading this thread past this point, that said even when I measure for seating depth I use at least a 2x case during measuring and take the average of at least five.

Afterwards I’ll always load a round and do what you just mentioned to make certain that the round will fall out on its own. That way I can double check my measurements. Variations in cases dimensions, bullet ogive lengths, etc. are always variable and never exactly identical to the lands.

Soft brass can cause excessive pressure, but I don’t think that’s the issue you’re seeing. That and soft brass usually causes an excessive force to open the bolt.

Sinclair International makes a chamber length gauge that will tell you the length of your chamber, and what you should trim too. I trim .020”-.025” minus that measurement on all my rifles. But since you bore scoped that with a piece of brass in your chamber I’d assume that’s not the problem? Something else I’ll check is a tight neck, but I’m guessing that you would have caught that?

Find a gunsmith that has a bore air gage and you’ll have a better idea of what the bore size is?

Hopefully your issues are found by the time I finish reading this post.
 
So I thoroughly cleaned the gun and the inert cartridge still stuck. I had to seat WAY WAY back (0.128"!) until I got close to the COAL listed in the reloading manual before it would drop free under its own weight. I'm going let the gun sit muzzle down overnight to make sure all the cleaning solvents are out and try again tomorrow. Maybe some moisture was causing the cartridge to stick. I just find it hard to believe the Hornady reloading tool could have caused the measurement to be that far off.

Any other suggestions on how to measure the distance to the lands would be appreciated. I did try pulling the ejector and firing pin spring and seeing if the bolt would close under the weight of the handle with both an inert cartridge with my old "0.020" off the lands" measurement and the one that dropped free. It didn't close on the old one and it does on the one that dropped free.
I use a Sinclair Seating Depth gauge. It’s not perfect, even when I test multiple cases and bullets, and why I always check it with a round to make certain it will fall out on its own weight.
 
I’m now wondering whether it’s the powder you’re using, VV N5 series powders are double based and I read on the Hide that someone mentioned that as it ages the Nitro characteristics change and was increasing pressure over time? That individual was having to redo his loads on his ELR rifle and eventually walked away from using it anymore.

He got a lot of feedback on his assumption for what he was seeing, and maybe just wanted to unload all his N570 jugs for something else, but I can’t say anything other than that?

I’ve only used their 1 series powders over twenty five years now and never seen anything like that, but what “if” that’s the issue?

Yes, I’m aware that you tested this with a few other different powders but I thought it might be worth mentioning.

Unless you’re 100% happy with what you’re using the guys over at Unknown Munitions in Post Falls Idaho build hundreds of rifles on Tikka actions that are really good shooters and they even make some great magazines as well for Tikka’s, and rings too.
 
Haha,

Sorry for not replying in a while. I haven't reported back since I haven't had any issues in a while. I didn't have any problems with the Lapua brass after I weeded out the ones with donuts.

I also ended up getting new brass and none of the new brass have developed donuts or given any pressure signs (blown primers, ejector marks, etc.,) even at the max published load.

I also ended up getting the new Athlon radar chronograph which has been extremely helpful for getting velocity data.

Fingers crossed, but it looks like Timmy is out of the well.
 

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