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28 Nosler Pressure Signs

Hey guys, I got a 28 Nosler Xbolt off a buddy of mine. Has a couple hundred rounds through it. I cleaned the barrel before taking it out. I loaded 180 grain Berger hybrids with H1000. Berger recommends a starting load of 73.5 up to 77.5. I started with 74.5 but had ejector marks, little heavy bolt lift , and mild signs of flattened primers. My buddy said he ran 78 grains of h1000 and Berger 175s without pressure signs. I'm using new Nosler brass. I'm stumped why it would have pressure signs at such a low charge. And fyi, I'm aware that this is why you should always start at the lowest recommended charge. :) Thanks!
 
Its hot outside
Hey, not sure if you're serious, but I did wonder if an environmental factor might have been the cause. My buddy shot it in Oklahoma around 1k feet elevation. I shot it in Colorado at 6k elevation, and around 80 degrees. My first thought was different brass or primers, but would those differences cause THAT much difference? I've used this particular batch of h1000 in other guns and haven't seen any increased pressure that would indicate variations in the powder.
 
Berger 175s without pressure signs
180 grain Berger hybrids

Different bullets produce different pressures.20190910_074008.jpg

A thicker jacket, harder lead core and longer bearing surface will raise pressures.

Target bullets may have thicker jackets to reduce bullet blowup at 1000 yards. Thicker = more pressure.

Compare the 2 bullets.


Look at Nosler data. 10 grs different in bullet weight & 4 grs different in maximum H1000 powder charges . 175 vs 185. Its not all the bullet weight difference . https://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/28-nosler/
 
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Different bullets produce different pressures.View attachment 1125473

A thicker jacket, harder lead core and longer bearing surface will raise pressures.

Target bullets may have thicker jackets to reduce bullet blowup at 1000 yards. Thicker = more pressure.

Compare the 2 bullets.


Look at Nosler data. 10 grs different in bullet weight & 4 grs different in maximum H1000 powder charges . 175 vs 185. Its not all the bullet weight difference . https://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/28-nosler/
Will do! Thanks for this info. Still seems odd that I'm toward the low end of Berger's beginning charge (for the 180 Hybrids) and getting these kinds of signs, but maybe it's just the different bullet.
 
Check to be sure you aren't on the lands. If you are, your start pressure will be higher for a given load. Seating a few rounds 30-thousandths deeper and trying them for comparison could be worth a try. I am not sure if you are using the same primers as your buddy, but I have found some of my magnums will be fine with one primer and HOT with another.

I use Wipeout but find unless I soak for multiple days, it doesn't do much for carbon. It eventually softens it but it seems to be n days two or three. In my cleaning, I start with Wipeout but once I get to no-color, I switch to Boretech Carbon. I soak and run patches periodically then with that but it gets to the finish line faster than plain Wipeout.
 
Check to be sure you aren't on the lands. If you are, your start pressure will be higher for a given load. Seating a few rounds 30-thousandths deeper and trying them for comparison could be worth a try. I am not sure if you are using the same primers as your buddy, but I have found some of my magnums will be fine with one primer and HOT with another.

I use Wipeout but find unless I soak for multiple days, it doesn't do much for carbon. It eventually softens it but it seems to be n days two or three. In my cleaning, I start with Wipeout but once I get to no-color, I switch to Boretech Carbon. I soak and run patches periodically then with that but it gets to the finish line faster than plain Wipeout.
Thank you for this info. I had them seated about .005 off but will try a few rounds further from the lands. I soaked with Wipe out for 3-4 days, cleaning with patches once per day so I'm hoping carbon isn't an issue.
 
If you were 0.005 off, I would definitely try seating a few deeper. Measuring the lands that close is dicey unless you use Alex's method. You could be in the lands and not know it.

If you do have a carbon ring, you probably haven't done much. In my experience once they are formed, you need elbow grease/brushes/JB and a lot of effort to get things back to clean. If it starts shooting fine but quickly gets back to sticky, that would tell me it is carbon and you need to get serious on attacking it.
 
If you were 0.005 off, I would definitely try seating a few deeper. Measuring the lands that close is dicey unless you use Alex's method. You could be in the lands and not know it.

If you do have a carbon ring, you probably haven't done much. In my experience once they are formed, you need elbow grease/brushes/JB and a lot of effort to get things back to clean. If it starts shooting fine but quickly gets back to sticky, that would tell me it is carbon and you need to get serious on attacking it.
I have tried all cleaners and i love jb borecleaner. But for aggressive cleaning just use bronze bore brush - one direction. In conjunction with remington 40x borecleaner , it is an abrasive in an oil base and it is great for hard jobs.
 
Butchs and a bronze brush will keep it at bay once you use jb/flitz/iosso on a patch short stroked in there. No chemical will get rid of it without mechanical action. Best practice would be to prevent it from ever forming
 
Butchs and a bronze brush will keep it at bay once you use jb/flitz/iosso on a patch short stroked in there. No chemical will get rid of it without mechanical action. Best practice would be to prevent it from ever forming
Gotcha. But if I don't have a carbon ring, that seems like a lot of wear on the bore. Does the abrasive stuff have a negative affect on the bore? I'm open to doing whatever. Just trying to learn. Thanks!
 
Gotcha. But if I don't have a carbon ring, that seems like a lot of wear on the bore. Does the abrasive stuff have a negative affect on the bore? I'm open to doing whatever. Just trying to learn. Thanks!

Carbon ring forms right at the end of the chamber, before the bore where the neck ends.

Clean the chamber well.
 

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