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Savage expertise please

NZ_Fclass

Silver $$ Contributor
I just acquired a Savage 12 LRP ( magazine and HS Precision stock) for use by new shooters. The strange issue is that it only fires intermittently. The firing pin protrusion is 53 thou and a "Go gauge" is a very tight bolt close. Almost too tight. But it still refuses to fire factory ammo - no primer marks and some hand loads. My gunsmith had no more ideas - but he's not versed in the dark world of Savage or 6.5 Creed. The firing pin spring is not the strongest that I have seen. Rifle is reputed to not have many rounds through it and the borescope view is typical Savage - no fire cracking, which would seem to bear out its light use.

If any has a good idea where to start looking or even knows the correct incantation to exorcise it's demons...

Thanks.
 
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Prairiedogger said:

Savage Shooters - Savage Axis FAQ's (updated)

This article is going to be a growing collection of frequently asked questions we see on the forum pertaining to modifications and Axis/M110 parts interchangeability for the Savage Axis rifles. Q: Will a bolt handle from a Savage 110 work on my Axis? A: No, the cam ramp for the primary...
www.savageshooters.com
These guys have helped me in the past.
Click to expand...
Excellent place to go for anything Savage. For the Model 12 LRP, you’ll need to go to the 110 subforum.
 
Maybe just maybe the new brass is too short from base to shoulder. Take some fired pieces only size the neck and seat the bullets long. Worth a try. Maybe the hand loads were bumped back too far as well why they didn’t fire. Cross fingers. Mine would usually make some indentation on the primer though
 
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Rocketvapor said:
"No primer marks" sounds like AccuTrigger falling to Blade.
Test out of stock with sized unprimed case.
Cocking Pin position will tell you what is going on.
Click to expand...
I think Rocketvapor is on the right track. That was my instant thought after reading the initial post. The trigger is tripping when pulled the the safety blade on the trigger is catching and preventing the firing pin from falling all the way
 
A few things can cause failure to fire but usually leave some indication on the primer.
0.050" pin protrusion should at least hit the primer.
Impact force could be low, but should still hit the primer and leave a dent.
 
The accutrigger isn't engaging. I don't know how to say what I am thinking but something with accutrigger tou realize if you set it all the way loose it will trip but not fire ....MAYBE that's
 
It common for the Savage fp spring to become weak, cheap to replace and check off that box. Also the fp hole in the bolt head can be too large, get a replacement ptg model from brownells. Both these fixes corrected my problems on a couple of Savages.
 
CharlieNC said:
It common for the Savage fp spring to become weak, cheap to replace and check off that box. Also the fp hole in the bolt head can be too large, get a replacement ptg model from brownells. Both these fixes corrected my problems on a couple of Savages.
Click to expand...
They are a pain to change. Or was for me with just minimal tools.
 
I concur, trigger is the highest probability. This is a common issue when the trigger is set too the ragged edge. You should have the tool to adjust the trigger. It comes with the gun. Use it back the trigger off. Also, if you close the bolt very slowly you may get more consistency. Once that is taken care of you need to adjust the headspace. Loosen the nut, back the barrel off, insert the go gauge, screw the barrel down to the gauge then back it off an 1/8 or a 1/4 turn. Some people remove the ejection button. I find that it compresses just fine when you screw the barrel down.
 
What do the primers look like on the ones that DID Fire?
You may end up doing things to IMPROVE your Savage, but NO primer marks are likely the pin not falling.
Fix that first. TriggerShimsDotCom.

For new shooters I wouldn't go too low on trigger force for safety reasons.
A finely calibrated finger or a good trigger pull gauge might be a good expense.
6 to 8oz Blade force, 1 to 1.5 pounds TOTAL force should be safe on a shimmed trigger.
Your first post indicated "For New Shooters", and the issue is "No Primers Marks" with FTF.

For Prone or Bench single load you can go much lower.
2oz Blade, 7oz Total is doable.
 
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NZ_Fclass said:
I just acquired a Savage 12 LRP ( magazine and HS Precision stock) for use by new shooters. The strange issue is that it only fires intermittently. The firing pin protrusion is 53 thou and a "Go gauge" is a very tight bolt close. Almost too tight. But it still refuses to fire factory ammo - no primer marks and some hand loads. My gunsmith had no more ideas - but he's not versed in the dark world of Savage or 6.5 Creed. The firing pin spring is not the strongest that I have seen. Rifle is reputed to not have many rounds through it and the borescope view is typical Savage - no fire cracking, which would seem to bear out its light use.

If any has a good idea where to start looking or even knows the correct incantation to exorcise it's demons...

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hard to say without seeing brass , however , if it's a top bolt release , which it should be , tear the bolt apart and put more spring tension on it. Sounds like it either made it out unchecked or someone had their fingers in it. The top bolt release can be adjusted for tension and protrusion
 
Does it have a bolt lift assist as in a bearing plate?
I installed one for a customer and it caused lite strikes sometimes.
 
I agree that the trigger is the likely cause. However the blade does move out of the way. Ill be running some primed brass through later...and ensuring the stock isn't interfering too. There no mods on the rifle - it shows little use - and it looks that the first owner had issues - hence the bargain price, less than half local retail. Quite why he simply didn't return it under warranty beats me. Mind you knowing the retailer, he was probably told that it was his fault and get lost!
Rocketvapor said:
,Old style adjustable firing pin vs new style with cocking indicator?

Spring would have to be REALLY REALLY weak to NOT leave a mark on the primer.
Click to expand...
Agreed - no cocking indicator.
Savagenut71 said:
Hard to say without seeing brass , however , if it's a top bolt release , which it should be , tear the bolt apart and put more spring tension on it. Sounds like it either made it out unchecked or someone had their fingers in it. The top bolt release can be adjusted for tension and protrusion
Click to expand...
I think that I have the spring compressed as far as it will go. Any more rotation on the rear threaded part and the firing pin protrudes into the cocking piece hole. I have the front part screwed up to give 58 thou of pin protrusion. I guess I could do more, but it "should" be enough.
 
Since yours is a factory setup this might not apply. If I remember, one time I was fitting an action to an aftermarket stock and had an interference issue. Or maybe I was modifying a bottom safety stock for a top safety action.

In either case, your symptoms sound familiar and mine involved the trigger or sear binding (with side pressure, I believe)
 
I have severe arthritis in my trigger finger(it's bent) and I can't pull straight back. I have to shim the trigger to take the slop out or the safety blade keeps it from firing. Or it could be binding.....But I'll bet it is the trigger.
 
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